Greenpoint seeds!!

growslut

Well-Known Member
Can the plants be moved?
I've got 9' of clearance under the deck and just attach a couple of new tarps to the floor of the upper level to acts as a roof.
If it's late in the season, I'll put my plants under the tarps when it rains.
Not a perfect solution, but I only lost ~4 zips last year.

Two other things help:
1) Pick strains that are known for fluffy buds. They are have better airflow.
2) Silica makes your plants tougher and less vulnerable to mold, mildew, and pests. (I use pro-tekt by dyna gro.)
The Copper and Dream Catcher are in 10 and 15 gal so they can be moved. The others are all stuck in place in 30 gal. Moving them might help but they are currently in a spot with 360 airflow. No rain here, just the high humidity.

I did use Silica, but maybe not enough. Only 3 or 4 times during the entire season. Next year I will step that up.

Thanks Chunky.
I'd be looking at an early harvest.at least make some oil/edibles with CLEAN bud. I'm super paranoid about budrot,only have a few plants out this season and have zero expectations of any harvest.i look at my mj as medicine,budrot just doesnt jive well with me.pretty much why I've taken this outdoor season off,lost #s last year.
Edit
I think you'll end up finding more rot if you wait it out
Really appreciate the advice. I am on the same page with you with mj being a medicine.

Previously, I have had 3 successful outdoor grows with no bud rot from moisture--only bud worms causing it. I read to expect to lose 30% of outdoor grows to pests/disease so I was kind of prepared for that. But throwing away nearly the entire plant yesterday was a real bummer. Maybe I will just try to concentrate on inside and controlling that environment.

Think I am going to harvest the Half & Half and Dream Catcher and keep an eye on Copper and Cookies.
 

NoWaistedSpace

Well-Known Member
Thanks. The Cookie Wreck was the only plant that was nearing harvest. The others are all weeks away. But if its a case of sub-par bud vs. nothing, I would rather harvest and get something.

Yeah, its surprising that it is so humid right now. I live in the LA area, but the humidity is starting to feel more and more like Florida. Last week the humidity was peaking at 88% overnight, every night. And last night it was only 76%, so a little better, but probably still too high.

When you say the garden is doomed once it sets in, are you recommending to toss the plants? Harvest early? or wait and see?
I would wait and keep vigilant now you know what you are dealing with and how fast it spreads and the major damage it causes. Afghani genetics has a tendency to get rot. It is from a "dry" and "arid" climate. sativa dominant plants tend to weather better. The thing with spores are they are airborne, millions and millions of spores. The largest organizm on earth is mushroom root system underground like a huge web. spores are the only thing that can survive in outerspace too. .
 
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Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Thanks to everyone for the advice on how to handle the bud rot

The infected Cookie Wreck got chopped yesterday--and you guys were right. The rot was everywhere. Even where I couldn't see it from the outside--it still had gray inside. 90%+ got chopped and thrown away. The plant was huge. Over 7 feet tall, biggest plant I've ever grown. There was a lot of material that got tossed, maybe a pound or more of buds? Ended up with an oz or two of larfy bottom nugs that got washed with hydrogen peroxide and water.

And more bad news today. Also noticed some bud rot on another plant--Chelumbian D. Damn. Guess that's another loss. I only have 4 more outdoor plants (Copper Chem, Dream Catcher, Cookies n Chem and Half & Half). The Dream Catcher and Half and Half look to be at 6 weeks-ish but the Copper and Cookies are just starting to stack nugs and probably have another month or more left.

Can I ask your guys opinion, should I try to grow these out longer or harvest all the plants at this point? Does bud rot keep spreading through the entire garden once it starts?
budrot spreads since it's a type of mold it's transmittable

one quick question, are your plants getting full sunlight ? usually bud rot grows in areas that have high humidity and shade.
 

Tangerine_

Well-Known Member
The Copper and Dream Catcher are in 10 and 15 gal so they can be moved. The others are all stuck in place in 30 gal. Moving them might help but they are currently in a spot with 360 airflow. No rain here, just the high humidity.

I did use Silica, but maybe not enough. Only 3 or 4 times during the entire season. Next year I will step that up.

Thanks Chunky.


Really appreciate the advice. I am on the same page with you with mj being a medicine.

Previously, I have had 3 successful outdoor grows with no bud rot from moisture--only bud worms causing it. I read to expect to lose 30% of outdoor grows to pests/disease so I was kind of prepared for that. But throwing away nearly the entire plant yesterday was a real bummer. Maybe I will just try to concentrate on inside and controlling that environment.

Think I am going to harvest the Half & Half and Dream Catcher and keep an eye on Copper and Cookies.
One other thing that may help...don't skimp on Calcium. Cal def. plants are prone to rot faster. I have a few outside this yr and even though my soil is well amended, I've been adding some Roots Elemental. It doesn't really mix well with water so I sprinkle it on the top layer. Plants are loving it.
 

NoWaistedSpace

Well-Known Member
The Copper and Dream Catcher are in 10 and 15 gal so they can be moved. The others are all stuck in place in 30 gal. Moving them might help but they are currently in a spot with 360 airflow. No rain here, just the high humidity.

I did use Silica, but maybe not enough. Only 3 or 4 times during the entire season. Next year I will step that up.

Thanks Chunky.


Really appreciate the advice. I am on the same page with you with mj being a medicine.

Previously, I have had 3 successful outdoor grows with no bud rot from moisture--only bud worms causing it. I read to expect to lose 30% of outdoor grows to pests/disease so I was kind of prepared for that. But throwing away nearly the entire plant yesterday was a real bummer. Maybe I will just try to concentrate on inside and controlling that environment.

Think I am going to harvest the Half & Half and Dream Catcher and keep an eye on Copper and Cookies.
You said you had 360 wind on them. That will swirl the spores around. I know it's hard to control which way the wind blows. lol
It seems like everywhere is as humid as Fla. this year.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
I get PM from lack of airflow. The air can't be stagnant. Of course, PM is a mold too.I never have a problem with PM anymore.
It's very windy here just dry wind that can cause it my snap peas seem to suffer every year, been thinking about growing super snap pea they are PM resistant.
 

40AmpstoFreedom

Well-Known Member
This is really interesting to me.i was under the impression that mj liked going from wet to dry to wet,soaking all of the medium. So you must not be watering through all the way? Or you wouldn't be able to water daily? I have a wicked heavy watering hand(something I'm trying to correct) I believe I'm waiting long enough between waterings,but I may be watering too much at once.if im following you correctly, you aren't soaking your medium all the way through or until run off?
MJ thrives in moderate moist soil. This is why Blumats, capillary mats, and Autopots give you so much better and consistent growth vs. hand watering. The reason you want to do sort of a wet dry cycle when hand watering is because no one wants to hand water a cup or two at a time multiple times a day and usually do a quart jar or two every couple of days as needed so past 3 gallons of medium. In essence most are always over watering initially, but if you don't keep pounding the plants with more you will never see symptoms other than the fact you achieve much better growth rates at a consistent soil saturation. Doing small waterings multiple times a day will blow large waterings away in both soil, coco, and soilless.
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
MJ thrives in moderate moist soil. This is why Blumats, capillary mats, and Autopots give you so much better and consistent growth vs. hand watering. The reason you want to do sort of a wet dry cycle when hand watering is because no one wants to hand water a cup or two at a time multiple times a day and usually do a quart jar or two every couple of days as needed so past 3 gallons of medium. In essence most are always over watering initially, but if you don't keep pounding the plants with more you will never see symptoms other than the fact you achieve much better growth rates at a consistent soil saturation. Doing small waterings multiple times a day will blow large waterings away in both soil, coco, and soilless.
I'm not so sure one size fits all.
I think it depends on your style of growing, how/when you repot, and the porosity of medium.
People run into more problems from overwatering than underwatering.

Hell I'm treating coco exactly like organic soil outdoors and the tomato in that pot is kicking some serious butt compared to the others.
I was told it was a bad idea.

A couple of years ago, some people on RIU even told me that running straight coco wouldn't work with cannabis, and guess what? It worked just fine.

I'm not saying you're wrong about frequent watering, but would it hurt to mix it up once in a while?

For example, my indoor grow is a little of both watering styles.

I give them a fixed amount every day, but after about 4 days, they've retained enough water that I can skip a day and let them dry out a bit.
Definitely don't want them to wilt, but the pots should be light when I pick them up.

Experimenting is fun... :eyesmoke:
 

40AmpstoFreedom

Well-Known Member
I'm not so sure one size fits all.
I think it depends on your style of growing, how/when you repot, and the porosity of medium.
People run into more problems from overwatering than underwatering.

Hell I'm treating coco exactly like organic soil outdoors and the tomato in that pot is kicking some serious butt compared to the others.
I was told it was a bad idea.

A couple of years ago, some people on RIU even told me that running straight coco wouldn't work with cannabis, and guess what? It worked just fine.

I'm not saying you're wrong about frequent watering, but would it hurt to mix it up once in a while?

For example, my indoor grow is a little of both watering styles.

I give them a fixed amount every day, but after about 4 days, they've retained enough water that I can skip a day and let them dry out a bit.
Definitely don't want them to wilt, but the pots should be light when I pick them up.

Experimenting is fun... :eyesmoke:
It doesn't 'hurt' it does impede you from obtaining maximum growth rates. Try it for yourself. It is undeniable to witness in person. Put half a 4x4 of the same clone on one of these http://waterpulse.com/products/retail-capillary-mats/, a Blumat system, or an Autopot system, and watch how well your hand watering side does in comparison. I don't care how good you are, use a soil hygrometer too, the side that has a constant water source will destroy the other one. There is a reason hydro out performs all other systems...and it isn't because it drowns the root system...
 

dstroy

Well-Known Member
Wow 30+ pages since I was here last.....

I'm sure GU loves that this thread is so active, but it's degenerated into trashhhhhh. It really is a shame, anyone looking for info on gps has to wade through all this bs light talk n now dog photos. Gu loves it though cause he selling to all of Riu by now lol.


Isn't there a socializing thread where y'all can banter n post your dog photos?

I'm sure you're all nice guys n mean well but cmon

SMH
maybe this corner of the internet isn't for you then, because this thread is entertainment at its finest.
 
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