Meanwell LRS-350-48 for Samsung 48v F Series Led Strips?

[john073]

Good Day

Can anyone possibly advise me if i can use a Meanwell LRS-350-48 for Samsung 48v F Series Led Strips or do i need to use a led driver, i do see that these power supplies are a lot cheaper then the normal led drivers eventhough they do not have a dimming function?

Thanks

 

[Airwalker16]

https://www.omegalight.net/product-page/300wx8

And they do have dimming. It's just an adjusting screw similar to A Version HLG models.

 

[john073]

https://www.omegalight.net/product-page/300wx8

And they do have dimming. It's just an adjusting screw similar to A Version HLG models.

Thanks for the info so they can be used instead of the HLG models? I want to save some on cost to be able to put the cash in at other places for my first grow october . Thanks

 

[nfhiggs]

Thanks for the info so they can be used instead of the HLG models? I want to save some on cost to be able to put the cash in at other places for my first grow october . Thanks

Yes, they will work fine. I use the 24 volt units with my budget builds.

 

[john073]

Yes, they will work fine. I use the 24 volt units with my budget builds.

Thanks for the information, i will then be using these instead of the hlg versions

 

[boilingoil]

Sure, just remember that the LRS are less than 90% efficient, where as the HLGs are 93% +efficiency.

 

[john073]

Sure, just remember that the LRS are less than 90% efficient, where as the HLGs are 93% +efficiency.

I saw that part, but what does it actually mean, lets say if i run a 350w one and 7 50w strips connected to 1 then i will only get 90% at peak power?

 

[diyled]

I saw that part, but what does it actually mean, lets say if i run a 350w one and 7 50w strips connected to 1 then i will only get 90% at peak power?

No it means its 10% extra watts at the wall rather than 7%.

If your leds are 350w then with a 90% driver, it will pull 385w+ at the wall
With a 95% driver it will pull 367.5w+ at the wall.

PPF output remains the same but system Efficacy uMol/j goes down.

 

[john073]

No it means its 10% extra watts at the wall rather than 7%.

If your leds are 350w then with a 90% driver, it will pull 385w+ at the wall
With a 95% driver it will pull 367.5w+ at the wall.

PPF output remains the same but system Efficacy uMol/j goes down.

Thank you for the information

 

[boilingoil]

I saw that part, but what does it actually mean, lets say if i run a 350w one and 7 50w strips connected to 1 then i will only get 90% at peak power?

Lets say that your flowering under 12/12 for 63 days, the difference is 15,000 watts more used, than a more efficient driver for the same light output. depending on you KWH rate it's not much ,but over a number of cycles it adds up.

 

[john073]

Lets say that your flowering under 12/12 for 63 days, the difference is 15,000 watts more used, than a more efficient driver for the same light output. depending on you KWH rate it's not much ,but over a number of cycles it adds up.

Thanks, but i think for me to start ill definately have to go with these for now and swap to the others later on.

 

[nfhiggs]

Thanks, but i think for me to start ill definately have to go with these for now and swap to the others later on.

Here's a tip for setting them up. These supplies, when they hit their current limit, do not just drop the voltage back a little to compensate - they do what's known as a "hard crowbar", that is, they shut off the output voltage for a second or so, then bring it back up. So when you adjust them, use a current meter (or a kill 'a' watt meter) to monitor the power - start with the voltage adjustment fully counter clockwise (minimum voltage) and then slowly bring them up to about 2/3 power and let the strips come up to a stable temp (maybe 30 minutes or so). Then bring the voltage up in 0.1V increments, letting the temp stabilize for about 20 minutes each time. When you get to the point where the light blinks off and on, back the voltage off about 0.2 volts and you should be ok from there on out.