Seeing a deficiency

[Aolelon]

I an using an amended soil, ROLS style. And I am beginning to see a deficiency. I am leaning towards potassium, as I used a kelp based fertalizer 1-1-15, but I am not 100% sure I added enough. You can mix it in water too, and I watered 3 days ago with a small mix of it.
Any ideas?

 

[macsnax]

Looks magnesium def to me. It's still early and can be fixed without too much damage.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

yep, teaspoon of epsom salts dissolved in a gallon of water will fix that up. you can even put a little in a spray bottle and mist them, will get in their system faster, just make sure to spray the bottoms of the leaves.

 

[Aolelon]

So what should I use to fix this. Would adding Calmag to ROLS be recommended?

 

[Aolelon]

yep, teaspoon of epsom salts dissolved in a gallon of water will fix that up. you can even put a little in a spray bottle and mist them, will get in their system faster, just make sure to spray the bottoms of the leaves.

Oh yea I didn't even think of Epsom salt.. Good deal, I have a whole bag. Thanks for the help.

 

[Miyagismokes]

So what should I use to fix this. Would adding Calmag to ROLS be recommended?

Dolomitic lime is a slow-acting calcium and magnesium supplying rock...
That said, it's got more mag than you may need, so I know folks who use equal parts oyster shell flour and dolomitic lime...

 

[Aolelon]

Dolomitic lime is a slow-acting calcium and magnesium supplying rock...
That said, it's got more mag than you may need, so I know folks who use equal parts oyster shell flour and dolomitic lime...

There is dolomite lime in my soil mix, that's why im wondering why its magnesium. That and the other rock amendments I used, like Azomite and the greensand.

 

[Miyagismokes]

There is dolomite lime in my soil mix,

How much?

 

[Aolelon]

How much?

3/4c - 1c. per cu/ft.
and I think I added a bit more for extra measure.
the whole mix I think I added 3-1/2c. - 4c.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

i agree with miyagi, dolomite is slow releasing. there's not just a whole lot else to use except epsom salts, unless you want to add a lot of other stuff at the same time. it's almost impossible to overdose a plant on sulfur (epsom salts other component) so it's shouldn't throw the rest of your feed schedule out of whack too badly.

 

[Aolelon]

i agree with miyagi, dolomite is slow releasing. there's not just a whole lot else to use except epsom salts, unless you want to add a lot of other stuff at the same time. it's almost impossible to overdose a plant on sulfur (epsom salts other component) so it's shouldn't throw the rest of your feed schedule out of whack too badly.

So the greensand and Azomite is slow releasing as well? Because those both have magnesium in them as well.
I let the mixture sit for a month, by the time I transplant them it will be about 2 months old,

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

https://system.na2.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=6786&c=35518&h=e9fc20bd17cdbfa29491&_xt=.pdf
manganese but no magnesium in azomite...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/greensand-fertilizer-70958.html
and while green sand does contain magnesium, it is also a slow release source.
i'll admit im not an expert at building soil, so i'm not sure what to tell you, just giving you the info as i find it, and as i have used it growing outdoors. if you want to know how to amend soils to go in 50 gallon holes in heavy clay soil, i could teach a class, not so much with the indoor container mixes.
outdoors i would add both, dolomite lime to the whole mix, and a good top dressing of epsom salts (actually i usually use sul-po-mag, which is epsom salts with potassium added)

 

[Wetdog]

There is dolomite lime in my soil mix, that's why im wondering why its magnesium. That and the other rock amendments I used, like Azomite and the greensand.

If it's a fresh mix (newly made), yeah you might need a shot of epsom salts.

I've used dolomite for years (still do), but noticed years ago with fresh mixes the Mg is slower to release than the Ca and can result in a Mg shortage early on. A one time application of epsom is usually enough to carry the plant through until the Mg in the dolo begins to release.

Sometimes I add it to the mix when making it, but most often just sprinkle a small bit on the surface and let regular waterings do the rest. This is with larger containers, like 3gal up to 15gal.

With the small pots you're in, the 1tsp/gallon of water soil drench would be your best bet.

Like I said, one application is usually enough and when the dolo begins to release Mg, it really becomes a non issue.

The slightly heavy application of dolomite is also, IME, a non issue. I've been adding 1 1/2cups/cf for several years now with zero issues. But, that's just my experience. There is also greensand and Azomite in my mixes.

Wet

 

[Aolelon]

https://system.na2.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=6786&c=35518&h=e9fc20bd17cdbfa29491&_xt=.pdf
manganese but no magnesium in azomite...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/greensand-fertilizer-70958.html
and while green sand does contain magnesium, it is also a slow release source.
i'll admit im not an expert at building soil, so i'm not sure what to tell you, just giving you the info as i find it, and as i have used it growing outdoors. if you want to know how to amend soils to go in 50 gallon holes in heavy clay soil, i could teach a class, not so much with the indoor container mixes.
outdoors i would add both, dolomite lime to the whole mix, and a good top dressing of epsom salts (actually i usually use sul-po-mag, which is epsom salts with potassium added)

My azomite bag says there is magnesium in it.
I did a foliar with some Epsom, when I water again I'll add a little bit more, to hopefully get me until everything begins releasing.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

certainly does, doesn't it. i guess that link did specifically say trace minerals and rare earths, maybe they don't consider magnesium either one?

 

[Aolelon]

So is there anything I can add to the larger batch of soil I have now, because I will be transplanting them into some of that soil, that would help for that time? Maybe adding some Epsom to the mix?

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

a little, but if you made it at the same time, it ought to be breaking down pretty well by the time you transplant. better to go light and add more if you need it than add to much and burn stuff

 

[Aolelon]

a little, but if you made it at the same time, it ought to be breaking down pretty well by the time you transplant. better to go light and add more if you need it than add to much and burn stuff

Yea, it's the same mix, it would have been sitting for a month longer than the stuff they're in now.

 

[Wetdog]

So is there anything I can add to the larger batch of soil I have now, because I will be transplanting them into some of that soil, that would help for that time? Maybe adding some Epsom to the mix?

What Roger said and in my own experience trying to add epsom to a moistened mix is really difficult because the epsom dissolves so easily. Better to do the soil drench IF it is needed. With the extra cook time, you may not even need it

From looking at your pics though I would suggest a bit more perlite. *I* run at least 40% perlite and with other aeration amendments can drift up to 50% aeration, easily.

The reason is, using grain/seed meals adds a ton of organic material over time and the old 1/3 aeration amount just isn't enough for adequate aeration. This has been my experience and is vastly different than say, blood meal, or various guanos that don't add nearly as much organic matter after breaking down.

With perlite, my own personal rule of thumb is, "When it looks like there is too much, it's just right".

Wet

 

[Aolelon]

What Roger said and in my own experience trying to add epsom to a moistened mix is really difficult because the epsom dissolves so easily. Better to do the soil drench IF it is needed. With the extra cook time, you may not even need it

From looking at your pics though I would suggest a bit more perlite. *I* run at least 40% perlite and with other aeration amendments can drift up to 50% aeration, easily.

The reason is, using grain/seed meals adds a ton of organic material over time and the old 1/3 aeration amount just isn't enough for adequate aeration. This has been my experience and is vastly different than say, blood meal, or various guanos that don't add nearly as much organic matter after breaking down.

With perlite, my own personal rule of thumb is, "When it looks like there is too much, it's just right".

Wet

theres a ton of perilite already.