TALES OF THE GREAT BATTLE OF PM

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I've already told you how to solve it. Quit being greedy and chop everything and start from scratch.


I don't care how you say it or ask. I'm going to say that only a greedy or lazy grower would use shit like eagle 20.

There is no way to rid it, especially in a perpetual grow with contaminated plants.

It's sucks. You have two choices. Either chop and start over and dial in your environment or use toxic chemicals.

You also made a claim of studies showing eagle 20 use in cannabis safe. Post them.
I might end up shutting down permanetly. This is a hobby, Ive made no extra money in 2 years almost. Ive worked 40 hours a week in the garden. Im also handicapped. So you can be as mean as you want. I have heard of people shutting down and starting over and still getting it again. What kind of experience do you have exactly do be able to share such advice? if you went through this same thing and came out on top. please share first, what caused the proble, - all your environemental factors, and then your step by step process of everything that you did to shut down, clean and start over and stay clean.

that would actually help. The studies were posted on the icmag thread I mentioned, if you want to tell people not to use it, that is the place, he is the godfather that turned all forums onto eagle 20 promising the final cure.
 

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Again, Sulphur works very well, it's commonly used in larger setups like yours and even green houses with great results ?

..plus it washes off, I use it in conjunction with baking soda sprays and am having fair results, good luck

Edit: I see the post below I understand what you're saying I recommend trying sulfur in your case because sulfur doesn't care about the environment, in the case of septoria it will just stop it, but you have to use it regularly maybe twice a week once you get it stopped. And the affected leaves are going to die off anyway but it can be stopped I can only imagine pm will react similarly, it says it does ?
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
Im really not sure if this would be viable indoors. My intuition says no. But my grandmother had amazing results using 1part full cream milk to 10parts water. Then sprayed her tomato plants with it while they were fruiting.
It has to be full cream milk too. Her reasoning was the PM doest like the fat content.



I have to be honest man. I really do believe it is always your environment. A hard pill to swallow. But just the way it is.
The spores are germinating. They must have the right conditions to germinate in the first place. Just how it is.

When i used to get it outside. It was always plants close to one another. Or plants in a partly shaded spot come afternoon. Such as near a big tree.
Because of my local climate. As soon as the sun goes down humidity jumps straight up, and its still a little warm from the days sun. Perfect conditions for PM to germinate and grow.

Vulnerable plants get disease.
Plants thriving in optimal conditions dont.

Im sorry OP. It really is your environment. Plain and simple.
You gotta get a dehumidifier or something to dry that PM right out.
Physical removal of ANY mold as well.
Remove and destroy.
It really is the best way. If it works outside. It has to work indoors.

Powdery Mildew really is the most common plant disease where i live.

Finish your grow.
Clean down.
Sterilize head to toe.
Air your room for a few weeks.
Then start again with a clean slate.

:peace:

PS.
No ICmag sorry dude. Tbh RIU is the only form of social media i use.
The milk and water is just a preventative too. Not a treatment.
I have for this entire run had good air circulation, 500cfm, 2 hurricanes 30-50% RH, no cold nightime as you can see by the range. Everyone says environment, environment,environment, so when I dialed it, and it still spread, thats why I made this post in frustration. And when you read up on pm, it actually can do just fine in various temps. it just has a sweet zone for fastest sporulation cycle. Also there is 2 lifecycles both with different requirments. germination to get established, sporulation to reproduce and spread.

20180621_221837.jpg 20180621_222019.jpg
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
Again, Sulphur works very well, it's commonly used in larger setups like yours and even green houses with great results ?
Yes I agree I have heard and read that sulfur works. But you have to use it every 1-2 weeks to keep it in control. and can't use in the last 4-5 weeks of flower, else it is said that it will be tasted in final product. I will use it as part of my shut down clean restart strategy to keep things clean while the spores die out.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Just incase you havnt checked OP.
What is your humidty during lights off?
Does it rise?
Even just for a few hours. That would be plenty of time for germinating.

Its ok. Shit happens to the best of us dude. Dont throw in the towel.
Just start over brand new. Everyone needs a hobby.

I wouldnt use Eagle20 either dude.
Have you read the toxicology report?
From what i hear its carcinogenic.

I have for this entire run had good air circulation, 500cfm, 2 hurricanes 30-50% RH, no cold nightime as you can see by the range. Everyone says environment, environment,environment, so when I dialed it, and it still spread, thats why I made this post in frustration. And when you read up on pm, it actually can do just fine in various temps. it just has a sweet zone for fastest sporulation cycle. Also there is 2 lifecycles both with different requirments. germination to get established, sporulation to reproduce and spread.

View attachment 4155027 View attachment 4155028
Well its germinating.
Proof is in the pudding.

I think your taking all this to heart dude.
You have several people telling you the same things.
We're not putting shit on your grow.

Ive had A LOT of experience with PM. Ive been examed on it too.
So you can take it however you like.

Best of luck in future endeavours

:peace:
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
I might end up shutting down permanetly. This is a hobby, Ive made no extra money in 2 years almost. Ive worked 40 hours a week in the garden. Im also handicapped. So you can be as mean as you want. I have heard of people shutting down and starting over and still getting it again. What kind of experience do you have exactly do be able to share such advice? if you went through this same thing and came out on top. please share first, what caused the proble, - all your environemental factors, and then your step by step process of everything that you did to shut down, clean and start over and stay clean.

that would actually help. The studies were posted on the icmag thread I mentioned, if you want to tell people not to use it, that is the place, he is the godfather that turned all forums onto eagle 20 promising the final cure.
You made the claim so cite it. I doubt there are any.

Not being mean. I'm a disabled veteran. I grow cannabis for medicine and grow a large organic vegetable garden we can for food.

Everything I grow is organic. No chemicals.

How do you run that big of a grow and not make money? Unless you are giving it away to people in need which would be worse because sick people don't need eagle 20 in thier bodies. It is used on certain edible plants. That may or may not be ok. I know it's not ok for cannabis because cyanide is created when it is burn.

It's not mean. It's the truth. I've had to chop various crops for various reasons of the years. Shit happens.

I call it greed or laziness and for the most part that is true. In your case you may be limited because of your handicap. I do know that I have health problems and have limitations. I still don't cut corners. I do it right or I don't do it.

I see no way to eliminate it in your cituation.

There are things that can be done. First choose strains that are mold resistant. I've noticed of the years of guerilla growing that some strains are more prone to pm or rot.

Alter your grow stlye for thinner canopies so moisture doesn't build up.

Clean and shop vac walls and other surfaces of the grow areas weekly and wipe down with bleach water.

Watch temps. You don't want a big temp drop at lights out. Keep night temps close as possible to day time temps.

Get the humidity down. I like mine in the 40's and sometimes in the 30's with no problem.

Add uv light. It helps.

Plenty of air exchange and movement. You don't want stagnant air. How big is your exhaust fans? Make sure to exhaust outside. You don't want to recycle that air through your grow area.

Install hepa filters on the intake side. Keep the room or area clean and wiped with bleach water outside the intake area.

Change clothes and take a shower before going into the grow area.

All this adds up. You might be able to recover but I doubt it.

If not making money and just a hobby then starting over is just time.

That's your options.

I have for this entire run had good air circulation, 500cfm, 2 hurricanes 30-50% RH, no cold nightime as you can see by the range. Everyone says environment, environment,environment, so when I dialed it, and it still spread, thats why I made this post in frustration. And when you read up on pm, it actually can do just fine in various temps. it just has a sweet zone for fastest sporulation cycle. Also there is 2 lifecycles both with different requirments. germination to get established, sporulation to reproduce and spread.

View attachment 4155027 View attachment 4155028
I can see things in that pic that lead me to believe your grow area needs cleaning.

I also notice you have plastic for walls.

If you build the grow areas where they are air tight and do everything listed it will help.

Like actually wooden walls that can be cleaned and sealed. Air tight. Run hepa filters on intake.

Make sure exhaust is going outside. I actually used to vent into another room and it caused mold to grow. I don't do that anymore.

I've dealt with pm and mites before. Dealt with probably damn near every type of growing problem there is at one point or another.
 
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thumper60

Well-Known Member
Maybe what is going on is that once your infected, even if you change the environment, it will not go away that simply once infected. So there maybe needs to be a distinction between prevention and cure. I have made a clone thread on icmag of this one with the same tile, that really took off, are you on there as well?
wrong!!!
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
I think I made it clear, I am looking for help and openly discussing what I have tried. You can shun and belittle me and say Im a bad person and grower but that only makes other people use this stuff in the shadows afraid to talk about it. I am talking about it, and sharing that it has not worked. That information will lower useage by other users, not your criticism. When people are depserate, they want a solution. Please help me with my problem moving forward, Eagle 20 is in the past, there is a 140 page thread of people using it and getting products tested and coming up clean. I am not the only one that has ever used it. I made it clearly i did control tests, and when eaten it is safe and i make cannbuter as well. Please dont derail my request for help with hate for eagle20.
I agree lots of people use an don't tell
 

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Yes I agree I have heard and read that sulfur works. But you have to use it every 1-2 weeks to keep it in control. and can't use in the last 4-5 weeks of flower, else it is said that it will be tasted in final product. I will use it as part of my shut down clean restart strategy to keep things clean while the spores die out.
You don't taste it it coats the outside of the plant and you wash it off at harvest

A lot easier than sprays and I usually get a hold of it in a week once I see it but as you know the damage is done once you see it unfortunately

The only thing about septoria it doesn't take out the bud but it doesn't grow much bud with no leaves on the plant
 

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Why don't you take a handful of plants and burn sulfur in a separate area and sample that product and decide ? I think you'll be happy
 

Puff_Dragon

Well-Known Member
had pm a grow back (towards the end of flower) when humidity was 70+ outside the tent!
My method to address it/keep it contained in my lower canopy, was:

Stop further growth with exposure to a UVC light (I had a 10/15 watt UVC/ozone generating room cleaning bulb - bought off eBay for like $15/20). With hand/eye protection (and the bulb attached to a 30in section of pvc pipe - to help keep me away from it as well as helping manoeuvring light inside/around the plants). I exposed the pm to this light for a short period. You should do a few exposures (over a number of days). fyi - do a forum search for uvc usage to get some ideas.

After first exposure to UVC, if pm is only in small patches; use a mild solution of H2O2 (I used 3%) on kitchen paper to wipe as much pm off plant/s as possible. This will also help slow further pm progress.


After harvest, do the Jorge Cervantes PM h2o2 wash (search for the video on youtube). This cleared the remaining pm right off my plants (fyi - getting the right water to h2o2 content is important - again, I used the 3% h2o2 solution). Imo - you need 'just enough' so as to cause the pm to start bubbling off the plant after a minute of being submerged in the water/h2o2 solution.

Blast 'empty' tent/room with UVC (long exposure), make sure to get all those nooks and crannies. Then wash tent with h2o2 solution. On to the next grow ...

This worked for me and I've had no pm since.


Preventative measures:
Apart from keeping humidity low, good fan air flow above (and especially below) the canopy. Also think about keeping the lower foliage thinned out.

Add a UVC regime into your growing cycle. This stops any pm growth.

Supply plants with something like Bio-silicon during grow cycle. This will bolster the plant so it can better protect itself from pm.

hope that helps.
 
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Have battled PM as well. Spent lots of time and money trying to cure/save harvests.
Unfortunately the only thing that worked was to shut er down and sanitize.

Steps taken in shut down:
Roasted grow rooms at 100 degrees + for 4 hours on several occasions.

Cleaned everything with concentrated h2o2 and water solution. I’m a nurse and I know h2o2 is used in our hospital as a cleaning agent and when I looked in to it further I discovered it will kill mild spores and viral spores. Trick is to spray on equipment and make sure it stays wet for about 2 mins in order to be effective. Sprayed down EVERYTHING.

Used UV light on anything I felt we couldn’t get wet with h2o2. Also put anything I didn’t want getting wet in rooms during roasting.

My partner and I did this routine several times over a 6 month shut down. We then started everything g from seed. Currently about 20 days in flower and have NO SIGNS of pm. We also made sure to filter our intakes well and started buying Merv 8-10 filters for our heat pump that circulates air around the main house just to be safe.

New rules:
Don’t be lazy! Clean everything and sterilize between grows!

No outside clones!

Keep all intakes filtered

Also a not on the h2o2 wash of plants at harvest:
It works! And believe it or not, the end result when dried and cured was very acceptable smoke. Actually quite smooth and potency was excellent.
 

larrypizzimp93

Well-Known Member
I have 2 strains going and 1 doesn't get the PM but the other 1 does get it. I'm running my room full of the 1 that doesn't get it for a few months in hopes that spores will die. PM is the nastiest chit i've encountered so far. much rather have bugs that won't ruin my buds. I have washed my buds with greencure then water during harvest and it does eliminate the mildew after dried
 
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