Haze the maze
Well-Known Member
I would like to know all though I don't use 220 in Canada.
Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!
- Thread starter StinkBud
- Start date
Keesje
Well-Known Member
ok...
All the gears are in this transparant box.
The transparent box you can carefully remove from the timer.
Be carefull because it is stuck to the coil and that is attached to some power wires.
Then carefully remove the lid from the transparent box.
On the side there are 2 clips that you gently push and then you can remove the lid / top.
Do it carefully because otherwise the axes and cogs will come loose.
What is going to happen is that the coil stays on the wires, and that the small black disc stays in the box.
When the lid is removed, you see that all cogs are - luckily for this explanation - differently colored.
Handle with careful because everything sits actually loose in the box.
All the gears are in this transparant box.
The transparent box you can carefully remove from the timer.
Be carefull because it is stuck to the coil and that is attached to some power wires.
Then carefully remove the lid from the transparent box.
On the side there are 2 clips that you gently push and then you can remove the lid / top.
Do it carefully because otherwise the axes and cogs will come loose.
What is going to happen is that the coil stays on the wires, and that the small black disc stays in the box.
When the lid is removed, you see that all cogs are - luckily for this explanation - differently colored.
Handle with careful because everything sits actually loose in the box.
Keesje
Well-Known Member
As said, the way to adjust is that you remove 1 cog.
Now you can not just remove some wheels. You have to make sure that the upper part keeps running.
In the photo the pink cog with the blue part on it.
To achieve this, you will fix them on the underlying white cog on the same axis.
The yellow cog goes into the trash.
However, you must ensure that the blue part will stick out of the box at the same height.
Because otherwise it will no longer make contact with the black/white clock.
To maintain that height, I'm going to glue a rubber ring / washer between the pink cog and the underlying white cog.
Now I had a cover cap, and by cutting off the 'hat' from it I kept a ring with exactly the right thickness and diameter.
I was happy with that because otherwise I should have searched for something else.
I use rubber because it is not heavy and because if you would drop the timer, hopefully it will not come off immediately.
But I think that just a plastic ring/washer would work too.
It is important that the washer has the right thickness. Too big and the blue part will be stuck in in the box, too thin and the blue part will not stick out of the transparant box far enough.
Also the diameter of the washer can not be too wide or too small.
But there are so many sizes in shops that it must be easy to find one.
Then you carefully take the cogs off, one by one.
First the upper part, which actually consists of 2 parts.
The blue part is on the pink part. The blue part can turn inside the pink part, but only in one direction ; then you hear the rattling.
If you want to turn it the other way, it blocks.
Then the yellow cog that you do not need anymore
And finally the white cog that becomes the base plate of a new, thicker, cogwheel.
In the box you can see all the axes still standing upright. They are in cut-outs in the bottom part of the box, and you can take them if you want. But don't. It sucks to get them back.
Now you can not just remove some wheels. You have to make sure that the upper part keeps running.
In the photo the pink cog with the blue part on it.
To achieve this, you will fix them on the underlying white cog on the same axis.
The yellow cog goes into the trash.
However, you must ensure that the blue part will stick out of the box at the same height.
Because otherwise it will no longer make contact with the black/white clock.
To maintain that height, I'm going to glue a rubber ring / washer between the pink cog and the underlying white cog.
Now I had a cover cap, and by cutting off the 'hat' from it I kept a ring with exactly the right thickness and diameter.
I was happy with that because otherwise I should have searched for something else.
I use rubber because it is not heavy and because if you would drop the timer, hopefully it will not come off immediately.
But I think that just a plastic ring/washer would work too.
It is important that the washer has the right thickness. Too big and the blue part will be stuck in in the box, too thin and the blue part will not stick out of the transparant box far enough.
Also the diameter of the washer can not be too wide or too small.
But there are so many sizes in shops that it must be easy to find one.
Then you carefully take the cogs off, one by one.
First the upper part, which actually consists of 2 parts.
The blue part is on the pink part. The blue part can turn inside the pink part, but only in one direction ; then you hear the rattling.
If you want to turn it the other way, it blocks.
Then the yellow cog that you do not need anymore
And finally the white cog that becomes the base plate of a new, thicker, cogwheel.
In the box you can see all the axes still standing upright. They are in cut-outs in the bottom part of the box, and you can take them if you want. But don't. It sucks to get them back.
Last edited:
Keesje
Well-Known Member
As said, the white cog is the basis of a new gear to be made.
Before that, I put a needle (a slightly thicker one would have been even better) in a piece of cork.
I can then slide the cog on it.
Some drops of superglue on the flat part of the cog ....
Then slide the rubber washer on the needle and press the washer firmly on the gear.
Make sure the rubber ring/washer is nicely centered.
If you are sure that it is fixed, put a few drops of glue on the rubber ring.
Spread it out.
Then slide the pink cog on the needle, on top of the rubber ring.
The needle ensures that they are all well centered.
Press firmly.
I do not glue the cogs and the rubber ring together while they are on the axle, because if there is some glue leaking, your whole gear is stuck.
In the way I do it, you can always pull the needle away, if something glue drops in the whole in the middle.
I also keep the blue part away from the glue because it is important that it can still move freely in the pink cog later on.
When the glue is dry, you have 1 big thick gear consisting of 3 layers, with - separately - the blue part.
Before that, I put a needle (a slightly thicker one would have been even better) in a piece of cork.
I can then slide the cog on it.
Some drops of superglue on the flat part of the cog ....
Then slide the rubber washer on the needle and press the washer firmly on the gear.
Make sure the rubber ring/washer is nicely centered.
If you are sure that it is fixed, put a few drops of glue on the rubber ring.
Spread it out.
Then slide the pink cog on the needle, on top of the rubber ring.
The needle ensures that they are all well centered.
Press firmly.
I do not glue the cogs and the rubber ring together while they are on the axle, because if there is some glue leaking, your whole gear is stuck.
In the way I do it, you can always pull the needle away, if something glue drops in the whole in the middle.
I also keep the blue part away from the glue because it is important that it can still move freely in the pink cog later on.
When the glue is dry, you have 1 big thick gear consisting of 3 layers, with - separately - the blue part.
Keesje
Well-Known Member
Then you put the thick gear back on the shaft in the box.
Just check whether everything runs smoothly and whether it is in place in connection to the other gears.
Click the lid back onto the box.
This is sometimes a bit of a hassle because the metal part at the coil has to be put in place again.
This part is partially clamped between the two halves of the plastic box.
The axles must also fall into the openings in the lid of the box.
But actually it goes pretty smoothly if you are not too hurried.
Then place the box back in the housing of the timer.
Before you close the timer, you have to pay attention to whether a little handle is also in place. And also make sure that the slide switch which is actually just loosely clamped between the 2 halves of the time switch, is also in place
I have tried to show it as clearly as possible, with hopefully usable photos.
The words will probably not always correct, but I hope it will be clear anyway.
Of course every timer will look a bit different on the inside, but the principle stays the same.
This is a European timer, but US, Canadian or Australian are almost the same.
Just check whether everything runs smoothly and whether it is in place in connection to the other gears.
Click the lid back onto the box.
This is sometimes a bit of a hassle because the metal part at the coil has to be put in place again.
This part is partially clamped between the two halves of the plastic box.
The axles must also fall into the openings in the lid of the box.
But actually it goes pretty smoothly if you are not too hurried.
Then place the box back in the housing of the timer.
Before you close the timer, you have to pay attention to whether a little handle is also in place. And also make sure that the slide switch which is actually just loosely clamped between the 2 halves of the time switch, is also in place
I have tried to show it as clearly as possible, with hopefully usable photos.
The words will probably not always correct, but I hope it will be clear anyway.
Of course every timer will look a bit different on the inside, but the principle stays the same.
This is a European timer, but US, Canadian or Australian are almost the same.
CannaSynergy
Active Member
how would a microgrow syystem liek this one be built could it be done with seeds and not clones as well ??
Haze the maze
Well-Known Member
Nice work.Then you put the thick gear back on the shaft in the box.
Just check whether everything runs smoothly and whether it is in place in connection to the other gears.
Click the lid back onto the box.
This is sometimes a bit of a hassle because the metal part at the coil has to be put in place again.
This part is partially clamped between the two halves of the plastic box.
The axles must also fall into the openings in the lid of the box.
But actually it goes pretty smoothly if you are not too hurried.
Then place the box back in the housing of the timer.
Before you close the timer, you have to pay attention to whether a little handle is also in place. And also make sure that the slide switch which is actually just loosely clamped between the 2 halves of the time switch, is also in place
I have tried to show it as clearly as possible, with hopefully usable photos.
The words will probably not always correct, but I hope it will be clear anyway.
Of course every timer will look a bit different on the inside, but the principle stays the same.
This is a European timer, but US, Canadian or Australian are almost the same.
Keesje
Well-Known Member
Question for the people using StinkBud's system...
The cycle for the pump is 1 minute on, and 5 minutes off.
But did any one of you try to have the pump off for longer?
Either by mistake or on purpose.
I am wondering for how long roots - in a mediumless setting - can stay dry.
The cycle for the pump is 1 minute on, and 5 minutes off.
But did any one of you try to have the pump off for longer?
Either by mistake or on purpose.
I am wondering for how long roots - in a mediumless setting - can stay dry.
dstroy
Well-Known Member
yes, you start the seeds inside of a paper towel inside of a netpot covered with a collar and wait until the taproot is long enough to stick out of the bottom of the neoprene collar, then pick it up with tweezers gently where the taproot has begun to change color near the seed husk and gingerly place it into the center of the collar ensuring you do not pinch it. easy mediumless seed starting for small batches. larger batches this requires a lot of labor and you should consider some other way.
420Barista
Well-Known Member
roots can be cut, they grow back
Keesje
Well-Known Member
They can, but the chance of infection or disease gets bigger this way.
BleedsGreen
Well-Known Member
I have never had any issues with root rot or other root problems transferring from Veg to flower rails and I know I have clipped many a root in this process, Hell I have busted roots just changing water in the veg units as the wrap all around the manifold. I do not use whiteshark, hydropguard or any of those either just some pondzeme with barley at every water change keeps the dreaded sludge away for me. Good luck!
BleedsGreen
Well-Known Member
I use rapid rooter cubes for seeds, when I do this and want to put them in these systems after sprouting I cut the top 1/2 " off the cube before I place the seed in so the cube doesn't try to push up on the color once placed into a netpot. Once I see 4 - 8 roots out of the cube into a netpot and vegger they go.
Happy 4/20
Just started cropping, looking good for my first grow. Learned next time to prune more. Center of some plants below the tops is so dense it’s like a mat of buds.
Most of the tops are dark purple and some pink. I would have taken a picture but my fingers were to sticky to use my phone.
Comes in time for my wife, she puts some bud in a smoothie to help with her stomach. Been through 6 weeks of radiation and 6 chemotheripy. Cancer is still there yet so in 2weeks she starts another 3-6 weeks treatment.
Help on this site is great. I made notes as I read through and made my own modified system for my tent. 3, 7 foot rails. 7 plants each. Res outside the tent, 2 air cooled double ended 1000 hps. Separate clone/veg closet.
Right from the start I’ve had great success. Only issue is one plant was so dense half way up the plant the mat of buds had the start of rot.
Plants are Gods green crack. One bushy plant! And the smell is so nice and very strong. Odor control was difficult.
Thanks for everyone who has contributed to this thread. Most of all to the master Stinkbud.
Just started cropping, looking good for my first grow. Learned next time to prune more. Center of some plants below the tops is so dense it’s like a mat of buds.
Most of the tops are dark purple and some pink. I would have taken a picture but my fingers were to sticky to use my phone.
Comes in time for my wife, she puts some bud in a smoothie to help with her stomach. Been through 6 weeks of radiation and 6 chemotheripy. Cancer is still there yet so in 2weeks she starts another 3-6 weeks treatment.
Help on this site is great. I made notes as I read through and made my own modified system for my tent. 3, 7 foot rails. 7 plants each. Res outside the tent, 2 air cooled double ended 1000 hps. Separate clone/veg closet.
Right from the start I’ve had great success. Only issue is one plant was so dense half way up the plant the mat of buds had the start of rot.
Plants are Gods green crack. One bushy plant! And the smell is so nice and very strong. Odor control was difficult.
Thanks for everyone who has contributed to this thread. Most of all to the master Stinkbud.
Hi StinkBud,
First off, Thanks so much for all the years of sharing. I found your thread today and started reading, 110 pages in, I decided to jump ahead 10 years, now I'm back in 2018.. Amazing....
I have to ask (it would take me a week to real all) Do you grow aeroponics at all any more, Sofresh farm's looks to be soil based?. Could you grow aeroponics in a light dep greenhouse?
I'm up in Canada, and things here are changing quick, Cannabis is going to be legal here sometime this summer and the market is going to open up.
I'm looking to grow on our family farm, in light dep greenhouses organically as well as outside in the summer very similar to what you are doing at Sofresh.
I would love to talk with you about what you are doing done there and the opportunity to bring it up here, if you have any interest in this market.
Thanks again,
Mc2
First off, Thanks so much for all the years of sharing. I found your thread today and started reading, 110 pages in, I decided to jump ahead 10 years, now I'm back in 2018.. Amazing....
I have to ask (it would take me a week to real all) Do you grow aeroponics at all any more, Sofresh farm's looks to be soil based?. Could you grow aeroponics in a light dep greenhouse?
I'm up in Canada, and things here are changing quick, Cannabis is going to be legal here sometime this summer and the market is going to open up.
I'm looking to grow on our family farm, in light dep greenhouses organically as well as outside in the summer very similar to what you are doing at Sofresh.
I would love to talk with you about what you are doing done there and the opportunity to bring it up here, if you have any interest in this market.
Thanks again,
Mc2
Could one use a series of the 36 site cloners to run a perpetual SOG? Would be cool to slot 36 cuttings into the cloner and flower them asap, leaving them in the same unit through harvest
Also could multiple mothers be kept in the same aero/dwc reservoir? Or should it be one mother per container?
Would pure dwc be better and lower maintenance for mother plants than the aero/dwc or is it six of one/half a dozen of the other?
Also could multiple mothers be kept in the same aero/dwc reservoir? Or should it be one mother per container?
Would pure dwc be better and lower maintenance for mother plants than the aero/dwc or is it six of one/half a dozen of the other?
Keesje
Well-Known Member
I don't get your question....
You want to put clones it the cloner, leave them there all the time, untill they are ready to harvest?
Precisely. Do a SOG in thenstinkbud cloner
BleedsGreen
Well-Known Member
I think it could be done but you would probably need an airstone and you would really damage the roots trying to open it and change water and nutrients every week. I wouldn't try ti that way maybe int he veger would work better.