Stone_Free
Well-Known Member
Nice one, thanks bro.
Samsung F562B Linear Strip Build
- Thread starter Takeshy
- Start date
assume par numbers pretty even across all canopy ?
pat_at_the_beach
Member
Hi newbie here but been following , so if im reading correctly I could run
Quantity of 10 LM561C F Series F562B Linear Strip 3000K 80CRI (SI-B8V261560WW)
On one of these drivers?
Mean Well HLG-185H-C700B
Im looking to build a led fixture but reading so many post ive got myself confused at this point
Quantity of 10 LM561C F Series F562B Linear Strip 3000K 80CRI (SI-B8V261560WW)
On one of these drivers?
Mean Well HLG-185H-C700B
Im looking to build a led fixture but reading so many post ive got myself confused at this point
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Hey, Pat, I'm working from memory but I think that strip is 23V so ten of them would fit nicely on a 240H-C1050 for 240W, where the 185H-C700 is only going to give you 160W. So yeah, it just depends on your needs. Personally, I'd rather have the head room and not need it than need it and not have it. You can always dim the 240H down to 160W.
Takeshy
Well-Known Member
My 32x F564B just arrived! 
Go check my build over here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/samsung-f564b-linear-strip-build.953509/
Go check my build over here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/samsung-f564b-linear-strip-build.953509/
What would be the materials that you use if you were to build a light that equal a SE1000watts hps? thanks in advance.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I would use 6 double row F-Series strips(46v, 288 LM561c), 3x 3000°k + 3x 4000°k and 2 HLG-320H-C2100B, each for 3 strips connected in series.(3x 46v=138v x 2,1A= 290w net./305w at the wall).
For proper cooling I would use 6 C-channels, 40x 40x 40x 2mm, 1150mm length and L-channel to connect it to a frame.
The structure and building is really simple, really cheap and really powerful with 170lm/w. You could also take 10 strips and 1.4A drivers to get 180lm/w.
It just depends on what you are willing to invest.
Digikey has the strips and mouser is a good sources for Meanwell drivers. If the 4ft strips are not available choose the double amount of 2ft double row strips or single row 4ft strips.
https://www.digikey.de/products/de?FV=ffecdcb2
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-320H-C2100B/?qs=/ha2pyFaduiLS2rM4huBhHRQ6YUB3VfV1iAlbduqDxeVwkVAnRxkuSQU7vaE%2bBt8
For proper cooling I would use 6 C-channels, 40x 40x 40x 2mm, 1150mm length and L-channel to connect it to a frame.
The structure and building is really simple, really cheap and really powerful with 170lm/w. You could also take 10 strips and 1.4A drivers to get 180lm/w.
It just depends on what you are willing to invest.
Digikey has the strips and mouser is a good sources for Meanwell drivers. If the 4ft strips are not available choose the double amount of 2ft double row strips or single row 4ft strips.
https://www.digikey.de/products/de?FV=ffecdcb2
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-320H-C2100B/?qs=/ha2pyFaduiLS2rM4huBhHRQ6YUB3VfV1iAlbduqDxeVwkVAnRxkuSQU7vaE%2bBt8
just cuirous, how do you split wires to do these parallel connections?
Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
Hello randonblame,
I thought you preferred wiring the strips in parallel due to safety concerns. Do u think its better to run the following in series or parallel: 4 single four ft samsung strips on meanwell hlg 185 1050,or hlg185 48a?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nope, I recommend parallel wiring for electro noobs to reduce the risk to get deathly electro shocked! The good thing about Meanwell's HLG drivers is that even the -48A can run in constant current mode as long as the voltage is below 48v (24-48v CC range). Therefor they are called CV/CC.
But with parallel wiring there is always an uneven distribution because of minor difference in voltage and resistance. The strip/COB/LED's with the lowest voltage/resistance sucks always the most current. The differences are most probably not visible to the naked eye, because the differences are small these days, but they are there.
In a worst case scenario you could get thermal runaways with parallel wiring. The risk is higher the more LED's are added in parallel.
BUT, all the CV/CC A-drivers have an additional voltage regulator that allows regulation between 43-53v. If you set the voltage limit to 47 or 48v, the probability of failure by thermal runaways equals near to zero!
But which voltage limit to use depends on the current one strip/COB/LED get.
The voltage limit should be selected based on the data sheet of the LED's. Calculate how much current the LED gets at which voltage from the selected driver (driver current divided by number of parallel LED's) and select a limit just above this voltage, because when switching on, the voltage is always slightly higher! +1v is enough!
If you have no datasheet at hand reduce the voltage untill the lights starts getting visible darker and set the voltage just above that point. Dimming is realized only about the second regulator, which regulates the current!
For my own builds I still prefer series wiring(less wiring effort, more possibillities, no need for failure protection like setting voltage limits) but based on this background above it really doesn't matter which way one goes! Both will work!
to run the most amount of strips per driver, what is best? i was intent on running constant current due to ease and simplicity, but 46v 1.12A strips (50W) had me picking an expensive hlg480-1400a driver (343v max, 1.4a max) which meant 7 in series before the voltage went too high.
ideally minimal drivers would be nicer and it seems like parallel with the 48A driver would be great? could put like 40 strps per driver!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yepp, it's possible but the wiring effort would be huge with 40 parallel strips! I would use two HLG-240H-48A instead of one HLG-480, the 240‘s have the best price/performance rating of all HLG drivers and they max. out at ~280w! And having two separate lights can be really useful eg. for vegging.
ANC
Well-Known Member
You can add a 0.01ohm resistor in series to each strip to balance the current and also to measure the current going to strips.
I have a feeling 10 strips on 300ish Watts is not a productive way of using your money.
I've only done driver tables for lower numbers of strips, but I'll try to run the numbers later for you.
I have a feeling 10 strips on 300ish Watts is not a productive way of using your money.
I've only done driver tables for lower numbers of strips, but I'll try to run the numbers later for you.
is the wiring effort mainly the fact that its 2x the amount as a series connection (+/- sides need wires nonstop)?
didnt know 240s were the best bang, figured the extra work would kinda equal out? more plugs, more wiring, more outlets, timers, soldering, cable/driver management, etc.
bummer that 240s and 480s are such low wattage. hard to replicate those 1000w builds with 1 driver
ANC
Well-Known Member
I'd start on the drivers rather than some arbitrary number of strips.
I have seen many examples now of people using higher numbers of lower powered strips, but as a user of 4ft double row strips at system current, there are no hot or cold spots even with the strips about 6 inches apart. the plants do not lean or try to face any particular strip, they are just going straight up. You will gain nothing but bragging rights by going for more light output at the same power usage. Maybe you will save 1kW unit over the period of a week depending on what the driver can actually put out safely.
As I said, I'll post up a table for you later, the numbers don't lie.
I have seen many examples now of people using higher numbers of lower powered strips, but as a user of 4ft double row strips at system current, there are no hot or cold spots even with the strips about 6 inches apart. the plants do not lean or try to face any particular strip, they are just going straight up. You will gain nothing but bragging rights by going for more light output at the same power usage. Maybe you will save 1kW unit over the period of a week depending on what the driver can actually put out safely.
As I said, I'll post up a table for you later, the numbers don't lie.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
is the wiring effort mainly the fact that its 2x the amount as a series connection (+/- sides need wires nonstop)?
didnt know 240s were the best bang, figured the extra work would kinda equal out? more plugs, more wiring, more outlets, timers, soldering, cable/driver management, etc.
bummer that 240s and 480s are such low wattage. hard to replicate those 1000w builds with 1 driver
Yes, the drivers that can replace a SE / DE gavita are unfortunately much more expensive (HLG-480 / HLG-600). If you want to buy 20-40 pieces, however, you can get a good package price. Maybe even on Alibaba with import, if the deal is good?
The wiring effort with two drivers is the same because you use the same amount of strips but splitted in half. You need only a dual timer like Sonoffs Dual which has two outlets, one for each driver.