Flushing with R O water

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Ok thank you! I will try tapering off the feeding as well as a plain r/0 flush and compare results. My patients are such smokers that its hard for me to hold any amount of meds too cure!

Nice problem to have!:-)

If only fed what they use and tapered properly to keep the plants a nice medium to light green the smoke is still smooth enough even sometimes off the vine.

I can have it burped and ready in a week. But I still prefer 6.

Seems Haze and some fuelly strains take longer.
 
Nice problem to have!:-)

If only fed what they use and tapered properly to keep the plants a nice medium to light green the smoke is still smooth enough even sometimes off the vine.

I can have it burped and ready in a week. But I still prefer 6.

Seems Haze and some fuelly strains take longer.
Lol it is a good problem! Man. I hang for 3-5 days. Then trim, then maybe 2-3 days after that the stems are snapping and can be smoked in a J, an L, or any glass!

I’ve never burped for any amount of time but I got a GG4 I may burp for a few weeks. Get that real Tasssty gg
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
For highest quality and yield I do it like you. And I have done tests every which way.

I do tend to go 10-12 weeks with sativa leaning hybrids.
Couldn't agree more. I have also tried it all... full on flush, heavy feeding all the way til the end... but time and time again a slow taper with a final watering or two of nice clean water seems to give me the best balance. Like most things in life, the best path often lays in the middle way.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Couldn't agree more. I have also tried it all... full on flush, heavy feeding all the way til the end... but time and time again a slow taper with a final watering or two of nice clean water seems to give me the best balance. Like most things in life, the best path often lays in the middle way.

I find most arguments true answer lies in the middle.

What I noticed most is the higher level of complexity in flowers effects when the plant can grow healthy to its true potential.

Bloom pk products also shorten and lessen results compared to a good complete grow formula.

For convenience I use pure Blend Pro Grow to the end. And it works great with my well water and ocean forest.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Bloom pk products also shorten and lessen results compared to a good complete grow formula.
This! It was a total revelation for me when I stopped blasting my plants with all that 0-X-Y NPK nonsense (X= a bazillion, Y= a metric shit ton) that nutrient companies peddle. I keep my NPK fairly balanced throughput now and IF my girls ask for it I add a bit of extra P or K to my normal formula.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
This! It was a total revelation for me when I stopped blasting my plants with all that 0-X-Y NPK nonsense (X= a bazillion, Y= a metric shit ton) that nutrient companies peddle. I keep my NPK fairly balanced throughput now and IF my girls ask for it I add a bit of extra P or K to my normal formula.

The president of dyna grow admits he made the bloom bottle due to customer demand and not plant science or need in this dude Grows interview.

He also shares the lab results from his marijuana tests.

 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I like when you finally develop enough experience to read the plants rather than following a “feed schedule”. Been going the.. less is more route lately, except for my TOXIC tap water i was using like a dummy.

I see that too. My plants keep getting bigger and more potent but I use less nutes than I used too.

The closer I get to only what they use the better the results.
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
Whats up fellow canna-lovers.

I am from the greater-flint area (although not directly connected to their water source). In the past year of my life I have had just about every major life change you can imagine, (kid, marriage, bought house, bought new car)... etc

My grow room setup went from one small 12 by 10 bedroom to two 34 by 14 rooms.

In the midst of all this chaos I forgot one of the most CRUCIAL components to having healthy, happy ladies... my water source.

A year after being in my new setup, and experiencing generally lack-luster results, I decided to get back to the basics.

Changed all my bulbs and cleaned all the glass on my air-cooled 1000 watt lights, calculated and created perfect amount of air circulation, have my temps dialed in, as well as humidity levels. blah blah blah.. so last but not least I check my (tap) water source..

800 PPM OUT OF THE TAP :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
AGAIN, I am from the greater-flint area so i'm sure my initial water source isn't the best, not to mention the plumbing in my home is likely from a long, long time ago and I assume the interior or all the plumbing is corroding.

Needless to say I about cried when I read 800 ppm on my TDS meter (surprisingly I have been able to maintain the health of my plants throughout their entire life as well as creating a potent, tasty, sought-after finished product.. the only thing lacking was my yield. I range from (sadly) .224 to .336 grams/watt.

About 2 minutes after I check my tap water ppm, I was on amazon purchasing a REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM...

Two days later and I have my R/o installed and slowly, but surely producing a much much much cleaner water source (40-45ppm).

Now, Reverse Osmosis is something I have never used before in my life although I am not new to gaining knowledge about reverse osmosis (as well as every other anything you could research about growing cannabis).

After 1 single watering of a balanced feeding schedule with the RO WATER my plants look ultimately way happier. (week 5 of flower). Within the first three days post-RO-Watering, I noticed tremendous perkiness in all the leaves as well noticeable bud growth.

However, I am weeks away from beginning the flush period, and I have really NO idea how to flush with Reverse Osmosis Water.

I have two opinions that contradict each other.

1) It seems logical that during the flush you would want to make sure your water is p.h. balanced therefore allowing the plants to continue absorbing and digesting any residual salts/nutrients within their soil and within their stems/leaves etc, along with flushing enough of that same fresh water thru the medium to achieve runoff. How does one create a stable p.h. with (almost) perfectly clean R O water? I don't want to add ANY nutrients to the flush water at all.

2)Some have the opinion that the more important aspect of a final flush (rather than having correct PH) is running ALOT of fresh, clean water thru your medium. So if I flush plain R O water thru my medium (at 44 ppm) until I receive that same PPM in the runoff thru the bottom of the pot.. would that be considered an appropriate flush? Will not balancing the PH have any ill-effects on my plants last week or two?

be gentle
from my own experience..it depends of the soil and nutes you use

the higher quality soils like FFOF or 100% organics you need not flush

as the living soil will handle any Ph swings with ease

you got crap soil then yeah flush your self out

understanding your soils is by far more important

to the plants than messing with some chinese ph tool

and depending on that to get you thru a grow

I can understand the waters in the us are shit

and the feeding imo suggest a 50/50 mix of tap and ro

cut costs and again leave the hard work to the soil to figure out

flushing before harvest ???? = not if its organic

please continue to play with your grow

just don't forget to top up your ro waters with some calmag every 14 days

good luck
 
I shall continue to play.

I am in soil Promix HP,

I have (over 10 years) created a blend of nutrients that I find suitable for what I am trying to achieve. (I probably use 7 bottles total).

My tap water is absolute garbage and I will not use it.

I don’t run organics *yet* because I am aiming for production to maintain and keep my current facility. Once I know the bills will be paid, I will mess around a little bit. I am a newbie with Veteran experience, but I like to learn :).

I am going to do a nice flush on half my ladies as well as a tapering sort of... fresh watering with the other half. Will post yield, taste, effect etc... when it happens!
 

charface

Well-Known Member
Damn dude, 800ppm?
I trust ya but just in case do you trust that meter?

Is a number like that common?
 
Damn dude, 800ppm?
I trust ya but just in case do you trust that meter?

Is a number like that common?
Common I cannot say as I don’t know. I will say... i bought the tds meter new, calibrated it with the appropriate solution and tested my water thereafter. My house is from 1950’s and... I am about 10-15 miles from flint... so it may be a combination of things. Old pipes, crap water source... etc. i know 800 is like unheard of HIGH ppms, but thats what it was. Looks like i’ve got some plumbing work in my future :p
 
Common I cannot say as I don’t know. I will say... i bought the tds meter new, calibrated it with the appropriate solution and tested my water thereafter. My house is from 1950’s and... I am about 10-15 miles from flint... so it may be a combination of things. Old pipes, crap water source... etc. i know 800 is like unheard of HIGH ppms, but thats what it was. Looks like i’ve got some plumbing work in my future :p

I am much more satisfied with the 48 ppm my R/o is pushing out lol
 

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BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
I run my RO into a 50g barrel with a float valve
In the barrel I have a fish tank heater (68-69) and a pump attached to a hose on a reel , I always have 50g on hand .

You will want to get a bottle of ca/mg
I put that shit on everything!


I agree with @NanoGadget @MichiganMedGrower
I bring my ppm up till about the last 2-3 weeks then lower (tapper off)the ppm
The last couple waters is just RO.
No flush.
I do over water a bit once a week , enough to fill up the tray so it’s easy to stick a meter in there to see what the run off is showing .

I also run 4 plants under a DE 1000
10g pro mix .
 
* I can’t like posts yet *

The more I wrap my head around it, the more and more tapering makes sense.

I wont be shock-starving the plants with a full on depletion of all their food

I will have better production/growth/swelling in the final few weeks

I wont have to complete the process of flushin/wasting lots of R/O water

So lets say my highest feed is 1200 ppms, then maybe do 900 ppms the next water then maybe 600 ppms, then my last two waterings will be plain, non ph’d r/o water at 44 ppm.
 

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
* I can’t like posts yet *

The more I wrap my head around it, the more and more tapering makes sense.

I wont be shock-starving the plants with a full on depletion of all their food

I will have better production/growth/swelling in the final few weeks

I wont have to complete the process of flushin/wasting lots of R/O water

So lets say my highest feed is 1200 ppms, then maybe do 900 ppms the next water then maybe 600 ppms, then my last two waterings will be plain, non ph’d r/o water at 44 ppm.
That will work ,
I keep a calendar per grow and write everything down, (8 different feedings, it’s easy to lose track)
Ph , ppm , what’s been added to the water n how much of it, n any observations about the plant I see. Then once a week with my extra watering , I write in that info too.

After a few grows you can really start dialing in your crop, if you keep good notes.
But make sure your consistent , an don’t go off your old notes if things are slow or your having problems.
 
That will work ,
I keep a calendar per grow and write everything down, (8 different feedings, it’s easy to lose track)
Ph , ppm , what’s been added to the water n how much of it, n any observations about the plant I see. Then once a week with my extra watering , I write in that info too.

After a few grows you can really start dialing in your crop, if you keep good notes.
But make sure your consistent , an don’t go off your old notes if things are slow or your having problems.

I’ve been doing this for 10 years and added and dropped so many nutes over the years. Finally have my own sort of feeding plan that is utilizing a less-is-more attitude. Anything around or below 600 ppms will cause a fully mature plant to start cannabalizing itself correct?
 
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