Gorillaglue4u
Well-Known Member
How many cob lights come with that price?
New light or????
- Thread starter Gorillaglue4u
- Start date
Gorillaglue4u
Well-Known Member
Gorillaglue4u
Well-Known Member
Seems like the best deal so far I'm starting to look into the different parts needed to build.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I don’t really think COBs cause anywhere near as much heat as HIDs. Especially considering HPS used heat to create light, if I’m not mistaken. COBs use electroluminescence, so most of that energy should be converted more readily to light. I, personally, have never needed AC, and in fact, needed heat in the winter. For 200-250 watts, and I can touch the heat sink and the light face of the fixture without burning myself. I can’t imagine you could do that with HIDs.
COBs are definitely more of an investment, but I’d like to see the information that shows EB strips work better, watt for watt, than COBs.
COBs are definitely more of an investment, but I’d like to see the information that shows EB strips work better, watt for watt, than COBs.
Gorillaglue4u
Well-Known Member
I was talking with timbergrowlights and I think cobs will give me better cover. They recommend 2 of the 300 watt cob kits at 350 each to cover my 4x4 area. Seems a little high maybe I can source the parts my self to get it a little cheaper?
RainDan
Well-Known Member
You are very welcome - and thank you for your support and service. We have both 80 and 90 CRI on the Vero 3000K and 3500K. Yours were built using the 80 CRI COBs, unless otherwise specified.
I am happy to help you out with the additional Citi kit and frame parts - feel free to shoot me an email at your convenience.
Have a good day.
Best Regards,
Dan
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
You are mistaken. We've been through this conversation before. There is no "heating element" in an HPS light.
Gorillaglue4u
Well-Known Member
There's alot of damn heat lol but regardless I just want to make sure 600 or 700 watts of leds will run cooler then my hps
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
True, but they do not "use heat to make light", its the other way around. The intense light in a very concentrated spot is what creates the intense heat.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
Less intensity at the center of the grow area. Due to more evenly distributed light..
More strips = more intensity.
Height of the fixture determines penetration.
Lower height of fixture = lower penetration.
Yes, that is correct.
Higher fixture = higher penetration with respect to the intensity at the top of the canopy.
There is no property, parameter, or characteristic, where a strip is not superior to a CoB. Intensity included.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Seems like a pretty decent deal from a reputable dealer here on RIU. Led heat is easier to get rid off than hps if youre space is vented, if cooled w ac i think its pretty much the same. And on top of that you can (and probably should) run your temps a bit higher than with hps as the have near no irheat.
Cobs/qbs: my main concern here would be if you want to run standard 80cri spectrum or 90 cri spectrum as nor boards nor strips seems to be available in 90 cri
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Show me a grow with roughly 200-250w of EB strips. I want to compare. Because I think what you’re discussing may sound good on paper, but I think in practice, COB would outperform slightly.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
This was 241w of COB in a 4x2. 4-foot tall plants. Strains were HSO Lemon Garlic OG on the left, RiddleM3’s Colorado Thunder Fuck on the right. Can you show me something similar?
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Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
This is my current run. 2 weeks 4 days. SR-71 PK x Sour Diesel (Red cup) and Sour Diesel (Terracotta).
200w 18” above canopy. Check out the deep purple in the veins and new growth of the SR-71. They even have capitate-sessile trichomes all over them. Not to mention how tight the node structure is.
200w 18” above canopy. Check out the deep purple in the veins and new growth of the SR-71. They even have capitate-sessile trichomes all over them. Not to mention how tight the node structure is.
swedsteven
Well-Known Member
Cob make me think of plasma light !!
1000watts hps 50 000lux 18 inch
4' × 4' bad coverage
4Cob 200 watts 70 000lux 18 inch 1212
2' × 2' medium coverage hack cob
Timber 400watts 4vl 50 000 lux
5' × 2' best coverage constant
Wath do you guys read with ur stripe or quantum look like old led but there not there huge lol
It look like the cob propduce more 2.3g/watt with cob
Do quantum do the same ?
1000watts hps 50 000lux 18 inch
4' × 4' bad coverage
4Cob 200 watts 70 000lux 18 inch 1212
2' × 2' medium coverage hack cob
Timber 400watts 4vl 50 000 lux
5' × 2' best coverage constant
Wath do you guys read with ur stripe or quantum look like old led but there not there huge lol
It look like the cob propduce more 2.3g/watt with cob
Do quantum do the same ?
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
You have a good point. It is currently a hypothesis on paper.
I am preparing for a new grow with 14 BXEB-L0560Z-30E2000-C-B3.
I am going to try vertical side lighting 2 plants from two sides. Seven 22" strips on each side.
Each set of seven strips powered by an HLG-240H-C1400B
The seedlings will be first be under a deep blue and amber (BA). Testing the photomorphogenesis effects of BA on elongation.
I am going to try containing the canopy within two sheets of acrylic hung 4" apart.
The strips will be positioned 4" from the acrylic sheet. (subject to change)
The strips current will be adjusted to provide 1000 µmol/m²/s (subject to change) at the surface of each acrylic sheet.
This is to test my hypothesis that a close distance to the canopy, 4", has limited penetration.
Irradiance at each inch from the surface calculated using Inverse Square Law
0" 1000 Surface irradiation µmol/m²/s
1" 640 µmol/m²/s 1 inch past the surface
2" 444
3" 327
4" 250
Adding the irradiance from both sides:
1000 + 250 = 1250 Surface 1
640 + 327 = 967
444 + 444= 888 µmol/m²/s At the stem
327 + 640 = 967
250 + 1000 = 1250 Surface 2
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I’d be interested in watching your grow and seeing your light. I’m not trying to be pompous. To tell you the truth, I’m thinking about EBs or QBs as a cheap way to expand my personal med grow, running either in unison with my COBs. I just want to know to expect before figuring out and deciding upon what I need.
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wietefras
Well-Known Member
No, that is bullshit.
Although the last sentence explains where you are getting this mistake from.
Also bullshit BTW. Or rather, too generic a claim to be of any value.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Yep bullshit.
That is not how any of this works. Seriously try to understand the basics first before you throw around your misunderstood physics nonsense as facts.
You do NOT get more light down below by first losing half of it on the walls.
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
I can tell you this, I don't imagine being able to grow the size of trees you have pictured above with my EB panels. The intensity drops off fast, the lower branches will not receive the saturation of light any where near what the tops will. Could it be done? Sure, but at what point is the even spread not worth the loss of penetration.
Ive found, in order to generate the type of penetration that would be required, to get those lowers that thick, on plants that height, the strips need to be packed together to such a point where it is nearly counterproductive to do so.
To get 20,000 LUX at 36", I had to put 15x 2ft' EB gen1, at 700ma in a 30"x30" box....
Strips are IDEAL for scrog type training, limited height situations, but Id have to say COB would be the better choice for "tree" grows....