The Lost Art of Foliar Feeding

since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
Here is a simple experiment anyone can do. Mix up a small batch of Nitrozime (i havent tried any other brand lately) with a yucca sticker or wetting agent. Add humic or fulvic acid if you like (its more dramatic if you do). Then pluck a big fat leaf off of a healthy plant you got. Set it on a table to wilt and shrivel (it takes some time) but one blade spray the foliar on it real good. Both sides of the leaf blade. See what happens. And if you think its just that leaf blade being wet....try another leaf and spray that one with just water. Use a stopwatch if you really want to get technical. Results may vary....take it for what it is.
 
4

420jj

New Member
SeriousSmoker said:
i love foliar feeding, ill explain my method as it is a bit different.

During VEG i use two different nutrients for foliar feeding.
I spray growth plus at 3 different occasions, once right after rooting, once half way through veg and once the day before flipping. It works amazing.
I also spray Rhizotonic from Canna every third day during veg which keeps the plants looking immaculate.

During flower i spray Canna Boost and it works INSANE when done properly ->the first time i used it my results were 5850 grams for 6000 watts

spraying notes: Spray early in the day ideally as soon as lights go on before plants get too hot. If you spray in the middle it can burn and damage the plants if they are too hot, and if you spray near the end of the light cycle the moisture will not be able to be absorbed/evaporate fast enough and it can cause many fungus', foliar spots, rot etc. Spray the underside of leaves for all nutrient application to reach the stomata and have quickest and most efficient nutrient absorption. If spraying to PREVENT either bugs, mildew, etc spray the tops of plants all over. When spraying in flowering try to avoid direct spray on big bud sites and i say cut out all sprays or at least slow the frequency between intervals as i have seen over spraying damage buds.

All in all im a big fan of foliar feeding!!
Click to expand...
hey man great info thanks! Do you mind to clear up my confusion on why you need to try cut out sprays in flowering & avoid spraying at buds? Is it because the spray may stay in the buds altering its purity? Thankyou for advice peace:bigjoint:
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
420jj said:
hey man great info thanks! Do you mind to clear up my confusion on why you need to try cut out sprays in flowering & avoid spraying at buds? Is it because the spray may stay in the buds altering its purity? Thankyou for advice peace:bigjoint:
Click to expand...
Mold and bud rot seems to be the common consensus on the forums. And it CAN happen if you foliar in the later stages when buds are big and dense. But personally ive never seen it happen because of late stage foliar sprays. That being said...i dont really spray directly on flowers if i can help it and i never spray period in middle to late flowering. Just for the simple fact that ideally you want lower relative humidity as flowering progresses. It makes for more developed flowers and trichome production. But all through veg..preflower...initial 12 - 12 transition flower i spray a kelp/ fulvic/ amino /yucca religiously every 5 to 7 days. And stock mother donor plants i always spray this solution 7 to 12 days before taking my cuttings. I get very noticeable and earlier root strike on the cuts. A little trick that the honorable Harley Smith once told me. And it most definitely is sound advice.
 
ShedsAndTents

ShedsAndTents

Active Member
Uncle Ben said:
"For starts, if a plant was meant to be fertilized via its leaves, God would have put some form of the essential elements in an airborne form, on a continous basis. If sugar was so wonderful, it would be sold as fertilizer....and the band plays on. The only airborne elements a plant might receive in the form of nitrates is via rain. Plants have developed their plant parts which serves specific functions over millions of years, root uptake of elements is the way it's done"
Click to expand...
Sorry to excavate an old thread but,
God did! Old habits die hard and the kelp ancestors stomata still functions similarly! Following evolution, the aquatic plants had little choice but nutrient uptake through the stomata! It only makes sense that it wouldn't lose that ability considering rainfall is(was) abundant and nourishing.
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
AnimalMother1974 said:
Its for trace elements and hormones?
Click to expand...
Manufacturers can process and extract kelp basically 2 different ways. You can buy cold extracted which is high in micronutrients and lower levels of the 3 main hormones cytokinin, auxin, and giberellin. But its still adequate. Or you can buy a heat/acid extracted kelp. This kelp is peocessed with more emphasis on the hormones and not so much the micros. This is the stuff I like.
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
There is quite a bit of plant available nitrogen in a soy or fish protein hydrolysate (up to 15%). But whats more important is the chelation ability of the 20 left turning amino acids. Natural Humic/fulvic & amino acid chelation combined with the typical and man made chelation agents like edta, dtpa, & eddha are ideal for maximum mineral nutrient absorption. Especially calcium, iron and the micros. A sort of one two punch. Ive noticed when using the bio stimulants that I can (and often need to) lower my nutrient solution strength by 0.2 - 0.4 EC or even more. Heavy fertilization isnt necessary when roots are absorbing so efficiently.
 
Last edited:
AnimalMother1974

AnimalMother1974

Active Member
since1991 said:
Manufacturers can process and extract kelp basically 2 different ways. You can buy cold extracted which is high in micronutrients and lower levels of the 3 main hormones cytokinin, auxin, and giberellin. But its still adequate. Or you can buy a heat/acid extracted kelp. This kelp is peocessed with more emphasis on the hormones and not so much the micros. This is the stuff I like.
Click to expand...
https://www.amazon.com/Maxicrop-1001-Liquid-Seaweed-1-Quart/dp/B000COBUQC/ref=pd_sim_86_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000COBUQC&pd_rd_r=M9C43E8MZWB8DG15CTH0&pd_rd_w=Bsckh&pd_rd_wg=bWXvA&psc=1&refRID=M9C43E8MZWB8DG15CTH0

Do think this is worth buying?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top