Bridgelux EB Strips GEN 2

Serva said:
Yeah, thats what I was reading about. But I haven‘t found these hotplates, because I am missing the terminology. Do you have a link? (German/europe vendor?) Even small ones like 5“x5“ would be fine, because I could glue them on a bigger alu sheet, or c-channels. I don‘t have a thermometer, but this should be easy to get, I think.

Edit: I don‘t have an oven, but I think I read that it‘s also possible in a pan?! May you pm me? I think it‘s easier to talk in german about it, atleast I could understand better, what I need to do :D
Click to expand...

This is a small one:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/T862-Infrared-Rework-Station-Solder-IRDA-infrarot-WELDER-BGA-SMD-Lotstation/272145248837?_trkparms=aid=555017&algo=PL.CASSINI&ao=1&asc=20160630134825&meid=120ff6e5fbbb4a109d9dff2ac0faadeb&pid=100507&rk=1&rkt=1&&_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226

This one is a bit bigger. They are called Reflow Soldering Stations...

https://pulsar.ebay.de/plsr/clk/0/S...VoZz672uUFwGy91YwmY9yWywxj3N8n+eJXOioWmG2bB"}

But I'm pretty sure you can get them cheaper or used.
 
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@Serva
You design your own boards using Eagle (free), it is not that hard.
There are tonnes of companies online that will then print and mail you your boards after you send them your gerber files from Eagle.

For large pads like these, you could actually just make them yourself.
Buy CPB transfer paper, print your design out on a laser printer, apply to your blank PCB with a clothing iron. Only the melted in printed traces stays behind on the board when you pull off the paper.
Wash in some ferric chloride (cheap stuff from electronics supply place), to remove the exposed copper leaving just the traces behind.
Wash the black printed stuff off your board with acetone, and you are done.

You can buy a mask spray to apply your own DIY mask (the white paint you see on the boards). It is kinda important as you have exposed traces facing the room.
 
Randomblame said:
This is a small one:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/T862-Infrared-Rework-Station-Solder-IRDA-infrarot-WELDER-BGA-SMD-Lotstation/272145248837?_trkparms=aid=555017&algo=PL.CASSINI&ao=1&asc=20160630134825&meid=120ff6e5fbbb4a109d9dff2ac0faadeb&pid=100507&rk=1&rkt=1&&_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226

This one is a bit bigger. They are called Reflow Soldering Stations...

https://pulsar.ebay.de/plsr/clk/0/SADS/9?pld={"mecs":"272931882436c807d8d00ad74f35be053e85657efa15","enc":"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"}

But I'm pretty sure you can get them cheaper or used.
Click to expand...
Sorry, my bad. I was talking about the pcb‘s. I cannot find the type for smd‘s. Only for electronic components? If I understood it correctly I need a platine which already has the connections inside? Or will I connect them my own on the backside by pins, like anc said?
 
ANC said:
@Serva
You design your own boards using Eagle (free), it is not that hard.
There are tonnes of companies online that will then print and mail you your boards after you send them your gerber files from Eagle.

For large pads like these, you could actually just make them yourself.
Buy CPB transfer paper, print your design out on a laser printer, apply to your blank PCB with a clothing iron. Only the melted in printed traces stays behind on the board when you pull off the paper.
Wash in some ferric chloride (cheap stuff from electronics supply place), to remove the exposed copper leaving just the traces behind.
Wash the black printed stuff off your board with acetone, and you are done.

You can buy a mask spray to apply your own DIY mask (the white paint you see on the boards). It is kinda important as you have exposed traces facing the room.
Click to expand...
Sounds also as an interesting option! Thanks for explaining!

You both guys gave me new ideas to go on my journey! I can see it coming.. my illuminated cab! Muhahahahaha :bigjoint:
 
Have a look on youtube. You will kick yourself for putting it off so long when you see how easy it is.




Look at that, just use the proper PCB toner transfer paper, not that crap he is using.

Not sure what the big white thing is, but it is just applying heat, like you would with a clothing iron.
 
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DankBudzzz said:
Why is the DigiKey website so difficult to navigate... does anyone have a link to the 3000 and 5000 k strips on DigiKey Canada. Do they come in 2 feet strips? Can anyone suggest an exact driver model to run 10 strips at around 200 watts total? Thanks
Click to expand...
Look for the name of the strips at the manufacturer site (bridgelux.com).

All eb strips start like that! BXEB- .... (bx=bridgelux, eb=eb strips), so you just need to search for „bxeb“ and you will find all strips avaible! They are avaible in 1, 2, 4 ft

HLG-185H-20 (or 42)
HLG-240H-20 (or 42)

You can run as many steips as you like with parallel wiring.
 
ANC said:
Have a look on youtube. You will kick yourself for putting it off so long when you see how easy it is.
Click to expand...
Why I haven‘t seen anyone here doing it? Why everyone is getting these china strips instead?! :D
 
Serva said:
Sorry, my bad. I was talking about the pcb‘s. I cannot find the type for smd‘s. Only for electronic components? If I understood it correctly I need a platine which already has the connections inside? Or will I connect them my own on the backside by pins, like anc said?
Click to expand...


As ANC already said, there are many services you can use when you have a gerber file. It seems not that hard to create and there are a few windows applications available like Eagle(thanks ANC, I'll try it). I've not done it jet but @VegasWinner has made the gerber file for his ggboards.

The chinese sellers like Mufue can also make PCB's/LED boards when you send him the gerber file and even without, they will provide you with some samples created to your wishes. Even with only a few details like PCB size, number and brand of LEDs and the desired circuit (16s8p or so) I am sure they have enough information to make it the way you want it. They work efficiently and do not throw away old gerber files. They probably use templates and you can choose one.

@ANC
do you have a link at hand I could use for an Eagle download?


Edit:
A quick search in google playstore and I've found an app called PCB droid. Seems easy to use and has an export funtion for the gerber file. :-)

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theophrast.droidpcb

This is an app to learn how-to use CAD.EAGLE
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microgenios.appeagle

Another useful app
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ahzimat.pcbdesignandfabricationdiy
 
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It would seem Autodesk took over Eagle from Cadsoft. Not sure if all the free downloadable stuff went with.
https://www.autodesk.com/products/eagle/free-download
Here is a download link.
I used to have an older cracked version with no board size limits.

If you are a student you can get it free for 3 years though.

Looking at some of the par maps on youtube for the Quantums I'm not sure the layout they took was the best. it still has a hotspot in the center and very weak light around the edges. I would recommend running at least a strip LED over the edges.

For a project like this, I'd contact my local PCB fab shop to find out the maximum size Board they can make at the moment (smaller boards get guillotined from larger ones).

Then one needs to look at the common sizes for cheap extruded heatsinks and try an match the size.

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...ions-inc/ATS-EXL424-288-R0/ATS2208-ND/5848416

Here is an example of what could go on the current panels at about half the price they charge for sinks at our main suppliers.

But I would Like a strip, at least 3' wide, and 250 to 320W.


Lol, I really should stop, electronics triggers my bipolar. I get totally manic and involved in crazy experiments running from the front door to the bed. (I have a patient wife)
 
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Serva said:
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS74 SMD 2835 0.2W 3V Gen 2 Data Sheet 20170323 Rev A.pdf
@ANC here are the diods I would like to use. But I can‘t answer any of your questions :roll:
Click to expand...
Took some time to look at your diodes and punch them into my spreadsheet. Certainly, the most expensive per lumen to manufacture. Nice specs at low currents, but those currents are REALLY low.
at 20mA we are talking 0.1W, this means you would need 3000 of the fuckers to make a 300W panel. 3000x0.37=$1110 just in diodes You would be clocking 190lm/W

At 60mA for 0.2W you will need 1000 diodes pushing 178lm/W so $370 in diodes for your 300W fixture.

I looked at the diodes too, those fuckers are small, you will need to have a board made with a solder mask.

It is a very doable project, I'd order the parts and find an American pick and place service to populate the boards, and make sure to use the USA made, in marketing materials. Won't be cheap but it would have a killer efficient veg mode.
 
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ANC said:
Took some time to look at your diodes and punch them into my spreadsheet. Certainly, the most expensive per lumen to manufacture. Nice specs at low currents, but those currents are REALLY low.
at 20mA we are talking 0.1W, this means you would need 3000 of the fuckers to make a 300W panel. 3000x0.37=$1110 just in diodes You would be clocking 190lm/W

At 60mA for 0.2W you will need 1000 diodes pushing 178lm/W so $370 in diodes for your 300W fixture.

I looked at the diodes too, those fuckers are small, you will need to have a board made with a solder mask.

It is a very doable project, I'd order the parts and find an American pick and place service to populate the boards, and make sure to use the USA made, in marketing materials. Won't be cheap but it would have a killer efficient veg mode.
Click to expand...
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEN-40E-11L-3C-00-0-0/976-1610-6-ND/6618657

What do I miss? 5000 = 285$

No? 1100$ for 300w would be crazy, and NO ONE would ever buy these diods...

I mean, we are talking DIY, not KindLED :D I think it should be possible to contruct for +/- 1$/W
 
shit, I did the sums for that one using cost for singles.... My bad
P.S. one almost never saves money DIYing electronics unless you slap together blocks of work completed by others, but you get to make something you can't buy at the spec you want.
 
DankBudzzz said:
Why is the DigiKey website so difficult to navigate... does anyone have a link to the 3000 and 5000 k strips on DigiKey Canada. Do they come in 2 feet strips? Can anyone suggest an exact driver model to run 10 strips at around 200 watts total? Thanks
Click to expand...
If you think the Digikey site is bad, try finding shit on Arrow.... now THAT site sucks for searching.
 
Serva said:
But the spreading is way better! Personally I see a BIG advantage in the uniformity, not in the efficiency. If I would know a proper pcb maufacturer, beside the asian scammers, I would like to get the custom pcb boards with the diods, running them lower for 190lm/w

Edit: here is some old post of me

I would like to have a panel with 16x16 inch (2x 8x16 inch maybe), 1200x SMD 2835, spacing 2/9 inch, each diode: 15lm @ 29 1/6 ma - 2,7v - 0,08W, so max. 95W and 18000lm (~190lm/w). My driver is cc 350ma, so I need a wiring of [10s x 12p]
Click to expand...
What is the goal, making a board with 190lm/w vs the 175lm/w (@3500K) of the gen 2? It seems like a lot of effort to save some electricity?
 
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