Wowza!! Are you rinning those on 120v or 220v?
220v.Wowza!! Are you rinning those on 120v or 220v?
It uses half the amps per light, allowing you to run more lights.This may be a stupid question but what's the gain for 220v? More efficiency? I had some 220v adapters sent with my lights but they'e just sitting around
Well looks like I should start looking into how to wire that/hook it up. I've had the breaker pop in my room many times. I have 4 lights running at ~1900 watts total and everythings been fine with that as long as I don't use my 8000 btu a/c because thats what pops it. Otherwise I gotta kill one of my lights. Temps are dropping now that winter is finally here but there'd be no way I could run them in summer without a/c. And this is even with 2 desperate breakers in the same room and trying to split evenly. 15 amp breakers, I don't know much about electrical work thoughIt uses half the amps per light, allowing you to run more lights.
Draws less resistance because the power load is split in two, resulting in cooler running longer lasting equipment.
It's much safer and more efficient than 110v.
Entirely too many watts for 110v in my opinion.Well looks like I should start looking into how to wire that/hook it up. I've had the breaker pop in my room many times. I have 4 lights running at ~1900 watts total and everythings been fine with that as long as I don't use my 8000 btu a/c because thats what pops it. Otherwise I gotta kill one of my lights. Temps are dropping now that winter is finally here but there'd be no way I could run them in summer without a/c. And this is even with 2 desperate breakers in the same room and trying to split evenly. 15 amp breakers, I don't know much about electrical work though
Interesting I have not run into that, hopefully I won't/Personal experience and speaking with nanolux.
it will try to fire the bulb, but there is not an internal delay timer, nor does it not try to fire a still warm bulb.
it will try to ignite 10 times, and if the power was interrupted shortly the bulb hasn't had enough time to cool while those 10 false ignitions take place.
Mine will not reilluminate untill I unplug the ballast from the wall, and replying it in, after power has been temporarily interrupted via service provider.
I also spoke with hydro builder who told me both galaxy and phantom ballasts do have an auto restrike timer and would eliminate this issue.
however they will not ship to me..
That's what I said. The Galaxy ballast has to be reset manually by hand, but the Phantom ballast will take care of itself, in the event of a power outage. Therefore, Phantom > Galaxy, in my book.Phantom will reignite after bulb cool down.
Galaxy will try to illuminate as soon as the fixture is plugged in.
via hydro builder reply
I got extra bulbs, but I will replace every grow.Hey, how often do you all replace your bulbs? I know these last a lot longer than HPS or regular MH bulbs, but I think the info I had was not quite right. I had read that they maintained 85% PPF at 20,000 hours. I just replaced mine (for the first time) at about 9,200 hours, and it was a HUGE difference.
I use a cheap light meter to give me an idea of light intensities, then use conversion values I found on the web to convert that into PPFD values. I know it's not very accurate, but it gives me a ballpark figure I can work with.
When I replaced my bulb at 9,200 hours my measurement under the light went from 600 PPFD to 1000 PPFD. That is a HUGE jump.
Any input?