Underground Dream Garden (Construction and Troubleshooting)

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Also someone had told me to use electric heat blankets for the floors. I would love to incorporate a heated floor somehow or put down rubber mats one with Styrofoam insulation below those.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i like the Y adaptors if you can find them, the less sharp turns in the system, the better. also, try to run the exhaust ducts as close to the same way as possible in each room, if you have extra kinks in one room, it won't draw as well as the other room

i had a couple of old work out mats, cut them into pieces and put my pots on them, they allow just a little air under the pots, which helps keep them closer to room temperature
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Ok HydroRed I do believe I am going to go this route. Your method won bro. You did lead this horse to water and when you thought he wasn't thirsty he decides to take a drink haha. Thanks man.

So basically in this design the lung oom or walkway serves no purpose in the environmental control, correct? And you don't think I will need my heaters set on when lights are on? I just bought an oil filled radiator heater last night I don't know if this heater will be the correct choice if set on a timer as they take a while to heat up. When the temps drop and the heater kicks on do you think it will take too long to get to correct temp? I can always return and get two ceramics.

That temp control ran into fan, Is it on a timer as Well? Where is my fresh air coming into the rooms in this diagram? I want to use your method but still unsure of a few things as far as setting it up correctly goes. Thanks a lot bro!
Gotta run the 2 ceramics as they both have built in thermostats and offer heat instant on and instant off. You dont want heat being supplied still while the exhaust fans are running. Its counter productive and wasteful.
Its not that the lung room really serves "no purpose" but that it allows both rooms to feed from the inlet without having seperate inlets to each room from outside. This way you only need 1 hole in the exterior wall for inlet, and 1 for exhaust. The lung room will be the common area both rooms can feed fresh inlet air from.
No timer on the temp controlled fan...just the thermostatically controlled outlet. You want it to come on whenever necessary day or night.
The fresh air that comes into the rooms is supplied by the inlet that feeds the lung room, then the rooms can independently pull from the lung room as needed.
When yor lights are on, you wont need to heat the rooms. When it gets to the temp you set the thermostatically controlled outlets for, the fan will turn on, exchange the air by pulling air from the lung room, scrub it of smells and control temps all in one action.
A heated floor is unnecessary and just more stuff to buy, more electricity and a hazard if you spill anything. I wouldnt recommend it.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
The circled part is where the lung room gets fed fresh air whenever either of the fans kick on in either room. It will be pulled in passively whenever an exhaust fan comes on, and only the room with the exhaust fan running will pull air from the lung room.
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HydroRed

Well-Known Member
The circled part is where you will install a "Y" to run each of the exhausts from the rooms out to one exhaust through the wall to outside. There will really only be one exhausting at a time, but will still allow both to come on at the same time if needed without the use of louvers etc.
Untitled2.jpg
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
The circled part is the independent inlets for each room from the lung room. This allows each room to be cooled independently giving you 100% independent environmental control.
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HydroRed

Well-Known Member
The space heaters thermostat should be set 10* colder than what the exhaust fan (thermostatically controlled outlet) is set for. The space heaters are on timers set to only be powered when the light in that room is off. Then the only time the heater will be able to run is when the light is off.
Once you get it set up your gonna see just how automated and simple it really is. Youre gonna be twiddling thumbs dude....it that easy and automated. I havent touched a timer or set anything in my room in months. Set it and forget it.
Heres a panoramic pic of my room. You'll see its basically exactly what I've been suggesting to you. Everything I've offered up has been put to use in my own rooms and arent just "try this and hope it works" suggestions. I want you to be successful.
 

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HydroRed

Well-Known Member
oh, for filters just get a 6" flanged carbon filter for each light. Make sure it is rated for a higher cfm than what the fan is (shoot for 20% higher cfm rating or better). More than likely the majority of 6" fans are going to be 350-400CFM or so which is more than enough. Its better to have it and not need it , than to need it and not have it.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
HydroRed, man, you are a genius! I understand this setup almost 100% completely and when you really think about it, it is very obvious that it will not fail. I respect you very much for being so generous with your advice and patience with me, hell most people would have given up on me by now..

I just have a couple of questions...

First, the two inlets on each room, are those just open holes in the wall or do they have fans installed that pull in the air from the lung into the grow area or is it likely that when the temp controlled fan kicks on it pulls the air through the holes? If it is just vents cut out, how do I keep them from leaking light out into the room and possibly contaminating the next room over?? If there is anything specific could you link me to the parts??

Second, same with fresh air intake in the lung room, is this just an open hole or have a fan pulling in air from it? No duct from outside main inlet to the two grow room inlets?

Third, I will return the oil filled heater for two ceramics, do you recommend I purchase 2 digital heaters or just the basic ones with the knob which does not really tell you a precise temperature on the display?

Fourth, Should I return the dehumidifier for 2 smaller ones since I am not running it completely open? I had purchased a 70 pint dehumidifier, maybe two 30,40 or 50 pints instead?

5th, in a way I am still contemplating on running it open or split and flip flopped. Which method will be best when summer time comes around? Good thing is, I already have the studs built so I can easily put up or take down walls. I was also thinking of running my first Scrog so I'm sure if the room is ran openly the studs would assist with that as well or anything else I wish to use it for, I could see many uses come of them if deciding the open route.

Which would you personally do? I still have some 6 inch equipment left over. I have several 6 inch phesh filters and two 6 inch blockbusters, two 6 inch fans. One is 440cfm and may need replaced soon as it has had 6 years of almost continuous use on it. The other is practically brand new and has a speed controller built in on it and supposed to pull 300cfm. My filters are rated for I believe 500cfm.

I will have to order 3 more ballasts as I only have one 1kw ballasts and 2 600 watt. I guess I need universal plugs if I'm going to run 240 instead. I already purchased my new 6 inch dominator xxxl hoods and got 3 new hortilux bulbs on the way. I will use my old bulb for the 4th, I have a few ushios and hortilux left over in case the most recent one I purchased blows out on me.

Still have some things to get out of the way. I will likely run 8 to 12 plants in each room or 16 to 24 plants total in 3 to 5 gallon grow bags with a mix of ffof or roots organic mixed in with about 60% promix bx. I have tons of organic nutes left over from my guerilla grow this year but may possibly run advanced nutrients ph perfect line instead. I had used it my last couple indoor results and never once picked up a ph pen and never had any problems whatsoever. Only thing with AN is that fat price tag they stick on their products.

Damn son, excitement has me consumed right now. I am hoping to pull a perpetual harvest every 60 to 70 days of around 3 lb per room or 6 lb total. I always would average around 1.5 lb per 4x4 tent so this is where I am getting that estimate. More would always be better :).

Once room is setup im going to b0mb it with some 3 month killing controlled bug b0mbs. I will do this before every run and maybe keep no pest strips on board at all times since I have had trouble with spider and broad mites in the past. They had been in my veg room back during the summer. I threw all plants outside after spraying insecticidal soap and not had a plant in veg room since so that room needs b0mbed as well. My current clones are vegging in a different location in a small cab I built out of a tote and they are dying to get into the grow bags. So my first run I'm putting those clones in the flower room and letting them veg out and fill their root zones under t5s and then will replace with hps once flowering is ready to be induced. In that time period I am going to clean, sanitize and make some changes in my new veg room/old flower room and hopefully reconstruct it critter free.

I know this post is a lot but just throwing it out there lol.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Oh and would you insulate the front block wall as well since it is not hurried and exposed to the outside? Or should I insulate with foam boards across the entire wall, every crack and crevice?
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
First- the inlets are just open holes and no fan (also known as passive). If light leaks are a concern, you can get (2) 6" elbows, spraypaint the insides of them flat black and attach them into the shape of an "s" and inset them on the inlets. This is a home made light proof vent. Light cant bend around corners. Do this on both inlets. No more light leaks and zero restriction.

Second- correct, no duct to either of the rooms from the outside wall. Just an open inlet that only supplies the lung room. No fan is needed (again passive). As the exhaust in either room kicks on, it will automatically pull the air from the outside into the lung room, then from the lung room into the room that requires the fresh air (the room where the exhaust fan is currently on).

Third- I'd return the oil filled for sure and get 2 ceramic heaters with built in thermostats. Digital would most definitely be easier to set vs trying to dial in the manual thermostat but will cost a few more $$.

Forth- I'd return the dehu and get (2) 30 pint. I have a 30 in my room and the machine itself is overkill, but the tub fills pretty quickly (less than 16 hrs) and was walking into a muggy room with the dehu on auto-shutoff because it was full. Luckily the one I bought has the option to connect a drain hose so I did that and put a 3 gal pail under it. It now takes 2-3 days for it to get kinda full. I use the water collected to water my plants. Win/Win

Fifth- The more rooms you have, the more equipment you need. This will include air conditioning. If you have 1 open (sealed) room you will only need 1 a/c unit, 1 fan, 1 filter etc, 1 heater, 1 dehu. Remember what I was saying about independent control of each room.....that means 2 rooms, 2 a/c units, 2 fans, 2 filters etc. Then you still have to duct out the heat produced from the A/C. Twice as many a/c units means twice as much ducting to exhaust the heat from the units and twice as much electricity used. :shock: See where I'm going here?

If you have doubts about the reliability of your used fan -replace it. Its an extremely vital piece in the workings of the room(s).
As mentioned before, more is always better when it comes to cfm. You can always dial em down but you cant make em work harder than what they are rated for.
Use fans with built in speed controls. I feel an external speed control is just another piece to go bad or cause problems.
I personally wouldn't worry about insulating the actual outside facing block wall of the lung room (if thats what you are referring to) since its temp isnt a key factor in this room design. Concentrate more on sealing up & insulating the room(s) A1 though.
For bug eradication prior to grow and inbetween grows use this: CLICK HERE.
Blow off 1 can three days apart from each other. Each can is good for up to 3000 sq ft.
Hope this helps!
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Good morning Red... Yes this information helped a whole lot, answered every question I had. It is always food to know people like you still exist.

I believe I will keep the dehumidifier I have and see how it does before I excange it since honestly I believe I am going to run her open instead of split. It has a pump to drain on it as well and I will likely reuse the water like you had mentioned. I use a water filter most usually connected to the end of my water hose called a "Boogie Blue" and it rids all of the chlorine and contaminants and is excellent foe growing marijuana as this is the original purpose of the filter anyway.

My construction has been slow lately, I have not done anything more than the last pictures I uploaded due to a strep throat case... But this morning I am feeling much better and plan on starting work here in an hour or so. I am gonna put up all of the insulation on the walls today, fill and seal all cracks and crevices with foam sealer, board up and insulate the cellar window, finish digging my trench to run my electric wire so I can have some power hooked up hopefully tonight or tomorrow, figure out how I am going to floor the room for now and then when all is said and done I am going to do a 24 hour test run on the room and monitor the environment, light leaks, etc...

I can only think of one question as of right now at this moment. Where is the best place for heater placement if I run this open instead of split rooms? Only one heater? And should it be opposite side of room away from the thermo controlled fan or in the center of room? Same for dehu? And would I have to worry about burning or crisping my leaves with the space heater??

Thanks bro, your information has been golden!
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Probably heater opposite the controller would be ideal. Your gonna want a fan(s) blowing to move air around in the room 24/7 though. I'd keep some distance (like minimum 24" or so) between the front of the space heater and anything else -plants included. I dont believe you would have any issues with heat or leaf crisping.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Hey Red, could you make make me a new sketch of the whole plan using the full room as the flower room? The one I had seen you make in the last couple pages were the side by side lights where as these will be going straight across the room in a straight line. I promise I should leave you alone after this haha..
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Thanks man, that is a great detailed diagram, Just what I needed to see..

However I am curious as to why such a long travel for the duct? I'm sure you have a good reason for this but would it not be better if the fan and filter were located on opposite side and ran straight down the middle and duct curved straight out rather than circulate through the entire room?
 
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