DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Voltage doesn't mean shit without current.
5000W heater at 220V is 23A (would be 46A on 110V requiring seriously thick wire.
Voltage is only the potential, power is potential times current.
SO the only difference is, on the mains side, 220V draws half the current 110V does.
 
HydroRed

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
Voltage doesn't mean shit without current.
5000W heater at 220V is 23A (would be 46A on 110V requiring seriously thick wire.
Voltage is only the potential, power is potential times current.
SO the only difference is, on the mains side, 220V draws half the current 110V does.
Click to expand...
So would you eat up a 220V recepticle for one of those 50W led lights he put a link up for? Thats the point I was making. Like I said...absurd.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
If he isn't doing something else with the outlet, why not, it makes no difference in the power consumed.

I live in the 220V world, have things like 3W LED bulbs connected to it.
 
T

TheHero

Member
If a required voltage is 220V, it probably takes all amps it can run it at full, so if its 50w, it is going to eat 0.2 amps from wall.
Bacis electrics. voltage(V) x amps(A) = power (watts). And from this You can understand that this LED has 1100 ohm resistance. I = U/R
 
Growdad54

Growdad54

Member
WDIK said:
Yes, I was happy with the results. I may go with a 9v Mean Well driver for the fans. The 36w reading was also interesting to me. Since I am trying to build 2 panels to each cover a 2'x2' scrog I may go with 5x Vero 18 for each panel versus 6. That should give me 180w per panel (45w per square foot).

Now I know this is a somewhat "scientific" thread, but let me digress a bit. I have 2 plants currently growing very well under 414 "true watts" of CFL. From what I observed with my half burned retinas last night, there is no way that single COB didn't have the light intensity of 3 to 4 of those 23w CFLs. Again, not scientifically measured, and maybe it's because the light is so focused.

Let me know if you have any thoughts.
Click to expand...
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
They have a resistance that changes with temperature, which is why we use constant current drivers, or the COBs would get warmer and warmer and the resistance it offers less and less,
Delta-9Pyromaniac said:
Would I be able to wire all four of those driverless LED's together with four fans and a driver to make one fixture? Safely?
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No, damn my vocabulary is taking a smoke break right now.
You need to galvanicly isolate the power supply from the wall before it goes to your LED. this can be done digitally for small currents or through a 1:1 transformer if you want to brute force it.
Maybe you can run it through a UPS.

https://www.jameco.com/shop/keyword=1:1-Isolation-Transformer

If you go the transformer route, efficiency goes right out the window.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
1:1 transformer, it might not be very efficient though. There is always large losses with induction.

Otherwise, I'd double insulate the shit out of it, but not recommended, if something goes wrong, it is mains current straight through somebody touching a live surface.
I light can fall an lay on the floor looking innocent and inconvenient with an internal wire lose, until you try to pick it up and it is live current. Can fuck up your day seriously.

You don't maybe have an inverter you can use to get the 220VAC from a DC supply?
Or maybe you can query the seller if they have a 110V version?
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
It is still to be considered very dangerous, make good safe soldered connections with wire knotted and hot glued so it can't get loose.
find out how much current the fans use, get a wall wart that can put out double that for longevity.
 
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