Samsung F562B Linear Strip Build

[Takeshy]

Voltage drop is a problem only if you wire the strips end to end.

How I not wire them end to end? Could you please explain?

Thanks!

 

[BuddyColas]

You can easily avoid this by just unplugging the driver from the wall while fixing something in your build, dont you?

You are right. It is that simple. I have built 6 fixtures and only use series wiring...because it is simple and easy. Voltages above 300 and no problem. Just unplug as you say, let the supplies discharge, and check with a voltmeter to be sure, before you put your hands on the wires. No drama!

 

[Rider509]

How I not wire them end to end? Could you please explain?

Thanks!

This is a quick and dirty modification of HLG's chart, but it should get the point across.


edit: what Randomblame says below, LOL, and also use a heavy solid wire to carry the current.

 

[Randomblame]

And if you want it even more perfect use the same wire length to each board/strip...

 

[Serva]

If you already have the drivers, it makes no sense to replace them.
Make sure you somehow fix the wires or wire them invisibly, inside of the c-channels on the backside maybe. Therefor you need only to drill a few holes more and use longer wires.
Unfortunately, there is no strain relief on the strips, as they are actually made for LED tubes.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/page-48#post-13612694
Guess this it is how you like to see it? What about hot glue inside the c-channel for strain relief? Finishing the build with the florence r1, would make it safe now? I won‘t show you my other lights now, because there are no c-channels, so open wiring, but especially as aquarium light for my wife I would like to make it safe!

 

[Stone_Free]

I'll be your huckleberry. At what height and power level?

Holy crap man! That looks neat as fuck!
I don't know if you're interested but the PAR/PPF/DLI tool in my sig hasn't been checked against any actual measurements. I'm thinking it would be good to check a few theoretical values against actual measurements so that people can use it with some degree of certainty.
What do you think? I'm not expecting you to spend hours on it or anything, just a few measurements if/when you have the time/inclination

 

[Takeshy]

I guess I could change the build to parallel and be like:

LED
(28x) LM561C F Series F564B Linear Strip 3000K 80CRI (SI-B8V521B20WW)

Driver
(1x) Mean Well HLG-600H-48A

4032 diodes, 50mA each diode, total of 600W, with 96% driver efficiency

I will be saving in energy consumption which is actually really good as prices on electricity are expensive around here.
What do you guys think? Would this build work well in parallel?

 

[Randomblame]

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/page-48#post-13612694
Guess this it is how you like to see it? What about hot glue inside the c-channel for strain relief? Finishing the build with the florence r1, would make it safe now? I won‘t show you my other lights now, because there are no c-channels, so open wiring, but especially as aquarium light for my wife I would like to make it safe!

I looked at the florence r1 and they also covers the connector.
Hot glue as a strain relief does not last much, but is better than none. And so much "tractive" will accidentally not occur anyways.. except she force it by pulling the wires..!
Your wife is lucky that she has such a security conscious man.... Thumbs up!

 

[Rider509]

Holy crap man! That looks neat as fuck!
I don't know if you're interested but the PAR/PPF/DLI tool in my sig hasn't been checked against any actual measurements. I'm thinking it would be good to check a few theoretical values against actual measurements so that people can use it with some degree of certainty.
What do you think? I'm not expecting you to spend hours on it or anything, just a few measurements if/when you have the time/inclination

I'm down to help out any way I can. My plants are still seedlings so the flower tent is empty right now. Just tell me what parameters you want the lights set at and I'll get PPFD values.

 

[Stone_Free]

I'm down to help out any way I can. My plants are still seedlings so the flower tent is empty right now. Just tell me what parameters you want the lights set at and I'll get PPFD values.

Awesome!! What a helpful chap you are
I'll set up some parameters in a few minutes. Thanks again, really appreciate the help.

 

[Stone_Free]

@Takeshy I hope it's ok doing this on your thread? If not let me know and I'll do it elsewhere. Should be useful for you though

 

[Takeshy]

@Takeshy I hope it's ok doing this on your thread? If not let me know and I'll do it elsewhere. Should be useful for you though

Of course!

 

[Stone_Free]

@Rider509 If you use:
200 W
3000k
Fixture Style - Rectangular
Beam width - 120
Height - 30cms
Length - 112cms
Hours per day - 12

This should correspond to the FB24B parameters at a height of 30cms.
Perhaps if you take readings at a few heights and note them down, I can put them into the tool and see if they match the readings you get? If you have any other suggestions give them a try.

If others want to chime in with other strip lengths and heights we can get measurements that are useful for a few of us and our respective designs?
What do people think?

 

[Stone_Free]

Of course!

Nice one! Thanks dude. Feel free to chime in with any measurements you'd like checked. @Rider509 seems up for it

 

[Budies 101]

LED
48 x LM561C F Series F562B Linear Strip 3000K 80CRI (SI-B8V261560WW)
https://www.digikey.pt/products/en?keywords=SI-B8V261560WW

Driver
4 x Mean Well HLG-185H-C700B
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HLG-185H-C700B/

Is this driver choice correct for that amount of strips?
I want to drive them in series with each diode running at 77.78mA. Each strip has 72 diodes in a total of 3456 diodes.

Thanks in advance!

Lol thats a HUGE light.

pics!

 

[Stone_Free]

Lol thats a HUGE light.

pics!

Ain't it just! If that don't grow awesome green then I don't know what will.....

 

[Takeshy]

This is a quick and dirty modification of HLG's chart, but it should get the point across.
View attachment 4037357

edit: what Randomblame says below, LOL, and also use a heavy solid wire to carry the current.

Thanks! I already bought 18 AWG Solid copper wire
One question, will I have to use wagos with 3 connectors in the yellow dot? (See attached image)

 

[Takeshy]

Lol thats a HUGE light.

pics!

In a few weeks

 

[Budies 101]

Sorry the thread seems to be about a few things at once so just posting at what I have red up to page 3.

To me efficiency is king. As when mentioned before 100watts is not always equal because at 100watts to grow marijuana to me it goes like CoB < 200diode pcb < 400diode pcb.

Of course ppfd spread and intensity matters but to a point more diodes/cobs run lower mA is just better... better spread of light. better spread of light means your watts work better for growing. My diode lights honestly feel like HPS is dead and cobs are great but just not on the same level as a good designed PCB.

 

[Rider509]

@Rider509 If you use:
200 W
3000k
Fixture Style - Rectangular
Beam width - 120
Height - 30cms
Length - 112cms
Hours per day - 12

This should correspond to the FB24B parameters at a height of 30cms.
Perhaps if you take readings at a few heights and note them down, I can put them into the tool and see if they match the readings you get? If you have any other suggestions give them a try.

If others want to chime in with other strip lengths and heights we can get measurements that are useful for a few of us and our respective designs?
What do people think?

I've got two fixtures of four 3500K F Gen3 double row 44" strips configured to cover a 2x4 area. The system in the photo is actually 8 F564B 22" strips with two per 45 inch aluminum channel. The other is four FB24B 44" strips. Same same.

I'll run a fixture at 200W at 12" and also at the 400W they are spec'd at and get back to you.