Heil Tweetler
Well-Known Member
This is when you supply a citation.
The Importance Of The Ripening Process: How To Grow Properly “Matured” Cannabis & Increase Potency
- Thread starter cannetix Inc
- Start date
cannetix Inc
Well-Known Member
“Calling something as you see it” without having all the details is the definition of arrogance, my friend. Keep in mind that doesn't mean I'm saying you don't know your stuff, you simply don't know me. Yes, I am the one who joined a website and went straight to the advanced cultivation section. Being a “well-known member” on a cannabis forum doesn't mean anything – it's not a degree – it's not an education – it simply means you have a lot of time on your hands – time some people don't have. I personally know “well-known members” on this site (i will not name any names) who have never successfully harvested a marijuana crop in their life – and it's not that they haven't made plenty of half-assed attempts, they simply don’t have a clue and yet their advice is taken in high regard by members of this forum. Like everything else you should take the things I say with a grain of salt, but that goes without saying. I'm not claiming to be the end-all authority on cannabis just sharing some information on a topic ive been researching for quite some time. If anyone has anything to correct, or productive to add, im more than open to that.
My setup is currently all outdoor (located in Southern Ontario, Canada). I try to stay as organic as possible but I am not completely strict on all aspects of organic growing
My mix is (approximately) 70% Sphagnum Peat, 20% compost (homemade) 5% sand and 5% clay at a ph of 6.5. No pots, just a large plot (4'x6') in-ground plot with 2 large plants.
Once I have an established root system I innoculate the soil with a number of beneficial micro-organisms including mycorrhizae and rhizobacteria. I used Mykes brand Mycorrhizae and a blend of beneficial bacteria made by a large commercial greenhouse in my area. I also use kefir grains as in my personal experience the lactic acid and acetic acid producing bacteria help keep soil within the correct Ph range.
I use no fertilizer during the initial vegetative stage as I use a pretty large amount of compost which seems to provide the plants everything they need until the early stages of flowering at which point I give them a serving of organic bloom fertilizer and kelp. For bloom fertilizer, i use Gaia organics powerbloom which is an organic, slow-release formula of Fishbone meal, bone meal, glacial rock dust, mined potassium sulphate, fossilized carbon complex, rock phosphate, greensand, kelp meal, gypsum, and bat guano. I make my own kelp tea solution using powdered kelp and water, letting it sit to ferment for roughly 2 weeks prior to application.
During early flowering, i apply a twice-weekly foliar spray of Silica, Epsom Salts & Calcium Carbonate which stops 4-6 weeks prior to harvest.
2 weeks pre-harvest I flush soil with distilled, deionized water and EDTA (Advanced Nutrients Flawless Finish [The Only Advanced Nutrient Product i will touch])
I water approximately every 3-4 days (depending on soil moisture) with 6.5 Ph spring water (non-ozonated)
I don't do any topping or fimming as in my experience without more advanced “mainlining” techniques it doesn't really help to increase outdoor yields on the strain I use (Texada Timewarp). I prune some of the smaller, spindly lower branches pre-flowering and seal the ends with beeswax.
My pesticides of choice like most organic growers are BT, Spinosad, and Copper.
I will try to upload some photos of my plants tonight but I do not keep an in-depth grow log or journal.
cannetix Inc
Well-Known Member
I should probably specify, I get my plants as clones from a regular source - they are always already pretty well established. What his setup is, I couldn't tell you.
cannetix Inc
Well-Known Member
I was going to post a study that suggests that the presence of Cannabinoids inside glandular trichome heads, which are closed cellulose based structures that contain up to 10% terpenes is what prevents the widespread oxidative decarboxylation of Cannabinoid Acids such as THCA. This is likely due to the antioxidant properties of many terpenes. As trichomes grow and mature, however, a small percentage of them burst which would suggest that a small portion of the Cannabinoid acids are naturally decarboxylated when exposed to oxygen.
However, upon attempting to do so I was met with a message saying I cannot post links because my account is too new and i am under the required number of "likes". Makes sense, the site is trying to prevent spam. I will post sources as soon as I have adequate permissions.
jarvild
Well-Known Member
If you believe what your original post is saying why are you flushing away nutrients that could be used to further the maturation of the plant? In soil, outdoors?
cannetix Inc
Well-Known Member
The primary purpose of flushing is to eliminate excess nitrates and phosphates which can alter the flavor. Unless your growing in a hydroponic medium, there's no way you’re going to flush every last nutrient, and even still the plant itself holds reserves. Properly done, flushing isnt exactly starving the plant, it's forcing the plant to use up stored nitrates and phosphates, as well as break down lipids. As long as nitrates and phosphates are present in the soil and available for absorption, vacuoles within the plant cells can contain up to 100 mM (millimolar) Nitrate. Under Nitrogen deficiency, plants mobilize stored nitrite while Phosphate deficiency leads to the degradation of cell membranes and phosphorus is obtained from the breakdown of phospholipids. Nutrients like Phosphate & Sulphur are indeed important in the construction of enzymes that synthesize Cannabinoids and Terpenes, but once these enzymes are produced they merely catalyze reactions – enzymes themselves have no demand for nutrients, although their activity may rely on a co-factor which is chemical compound, usually a metallic ion that is required for a protein's biological activity to happen. Reserves of metal ions are also stored in the plant's cells within the vacuole.
https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2015.00664/full
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1365-3040.2000.00595.x/pdf
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-3040.1988.tb01769.x/epdf?r3_referer=wol&tracking_action=preview_click&show_checkout=1&purchase_referrer=onlinelibrary.wiley.com&purchase_site_license=LICENSE_DENIED
http://www.ffame.org/pubs/Transport and Storage of Metal Ions in Biology.pdf
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4192468/
Jaybodankly
Well-Known Member
"I don't know what kind of dehumidifier or if you can set it any lower but doing so to allow for a slightly faster drying time might be ideal".
What is ideal?
"Do you trim large fan leaves before or after the drying process"?
I take the large fan leaves off and feed them to earthworms.
"Do you use a fan for air circulation or does your dehumidifier include a fan"?
Dehui blows warm air. I have a 6" fan/filter combo sitting on the floor recirculating the air and reducing the smell.
I also use a datalogger (Sensorpush!) to send me alerts if the temp/hum gets out of range during the drying process.
What is ideal?
"Do you trim large fan leaves before or after the drying process"?
I take the large fan leaves off and feed them to earthworms.
"Do you use a fan for air circulation or does your dehumidifier include a fan"?
Dehui blows warm air. I have a 6" fan/filter combo sitting on the floor recirculating the air and reducing the smell.
I also use a datalogger (Sensorpush!) to send me alerts if the temp/hum gets out of range during the drying process.
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jarvild
Well-Known Member
There is the Key. you state excess nitrates and phosphates. What if your plants doesn't get a chance to store excess nutrients?
SonsOfAvery
Well-Known Member
Personally speaking I would like to see sources of information referenced at all times by everyone if possible.
Cuts out any bullshit imo. I'm a science type of guy though.
Cuts out any bullshit imo. I'm a science type of guy though.
Jaybodankly
Well-Known Member
I dont flush my plants. That is for you nute-salt based growers. Got to get the salt out. I deal with proteins that breakdown into amino acids like bloodmeal.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
The slower the dry the better. You don't want to dry in a couple days. A week is perfect.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
Just asking for citation. You admitted you pasted a couple paragraphs. Give a link to where those paragraphs came from.
Do you not see the irony here. You kind of poke fun at people for having too much time on their hands and posting a lot here. At the same time several of your first few posts are long and time consuming if it wasn't a copy and paste.
Arrogance would include me thinking I am better than you. I never expressed that.
Flowki
Well-Known Member
Can't you guys give arguments for or against the OP's original posts rather than his intent. I don't give a fuck if he is selling something or not.. info is info.
He's also put up a interesting point about flushing. Most ''good growers'' consider it to be a bad thing while he has posted what appears to be the first credible reasons I've ever read to do it. It was some what contested by a later post but not sufficiently enough for me, one way or the other.
Also stating faster cures is good. Again most good growers here sy the longer the better, so some decent immature free posts on either side of that would be nice too.
He's also put up a interesting point about flushing. Most ''good growers'' consider it to be a bad thing while he has posted what appears to be the first credible reasons I've ever read to do it. It was some what contested by a later post but not sufficiently enough for me, one way or the other.
Also stating faster cures is good. Again most good growers here sy the longer the better, so some decent immature free posts on either side of that would be nice too.
xtsho
Well-Known Member
Bad info should be ignored.
jarvild
Well-Known Member
Ok , I'm no botanist so here is a article. I see nowhere it says nutrients N or P are stored in them. http://www.plantcell.org/content/26/10/3827
xtsho
Well-Known Member
The majority of articles on flushing can be traced back to companies selling flushing products. Nutrient companies have done a good job at marketing the non existent need to flush so they can sell you a $20 bottle of basically water. For one thing plant's don't store nutrients in a way that can be flushed out of them. They convert those nutrients into things they can use.
They use nutrients to grow the vegetables we eat. They don't flush lettuce, carrots, celery, tomatoes, etc... Yet when you eat those vegetables they don't taste like the nutrients that were used to enhance their growth.
And another thing. If you're supposedly flushing where do those nutrients go? The plant is still pulling water in through the roots. Nothing is leaving the plant. How is that flushing anything?
I have a friend that grows and won't listen to me because he knows everything. He pays for overpriced nutrients, every additive you can get, flushes, and does all the other wives tale gimmicks imaginable. I use the bare basic nutrients and don't flush. My final yields and quality are much better than his. At a small gathering last week everyone said his weed tasted like crap while everyone commented on how great mine tasted and how nice the buds looked. So at a side by side comparison my weed was preferred over the flushed weed by a dozen people. That's not scientific but it's good enough for me to know that flushing accomplishes nothing.
Now if you screw up and dump too many nutes on your plants you may need flush those out because you've made the grow environment toxic to your plants. Other than that there is no reason to starve your plants of nutrients at anytime.
They use nutrients to grow the vegetables we eat. They don't flush lettuce, carrots, celery, tomatoes, etc... Yet when you eat those vegetables they don't taste like the nutrients that were used to enhance their growth.
And another thing. If you're supposedly flushing where do those nutrients go? The plant is still pulling water in through the roots. Nothing is leaving the plant. How is that flushing anything?
I have a friend that grows and won't listen to me because he knows everything. He pays for overpriced nutrients, every additive you can get, flushes, and does all the other wives tale gimmicks imaginable. I use the bare basic nutrients and don't flush. My final yields and quality are much better than his. At a small gathering last week everyone said his weed tasted like crap while everyone commented on how great mine tasted and how nice the buds looked. So at a side by side comparison my weed was preferred over the flushed weed by a dozen people. That's not scientific but it's good enough for me to know that flushing accomplishes nothing.
Now if you screw up and dump too many nutes on your plants you may need flush those out because you've made the grow environment toxic to your plants. Other than that there is no reason to starve your plants of nutrients at anytime.