Why do some LED lights cost $800+ without being 8 times bigger?

[whitebb2727]

@Geyapex Technology offers some built cob fixtures in the 200 watt range for 250-300 bucks. That is built and not a kit you assemble.

I'm testing a 200 watt citizen unit from them.

 

[whitebb2727]

Unit farm sponsors here and they offer a full spectrum led with cree diodes. Single diodes like the blurple lights but with name brand diodes.

They start in the 400 buck range and go up from there.

Good people. Good customer support.

Contact @Geyapex Technology for more info.

 

[coreywebster]

Should I be semi-impressed (spec wise) with the Viparspectra 600w drawing 276 watts at 600w equivelant vs. my BestVA boasting 1000w equivalent but drawing just 185 watts? I just thought I'd ask.[/QUOTE/].

No not really, neither are true equivalent to what they claim. Really they are likely just adding the diode wattage together so they can say 600w or 1000w. By using the word equivalent they are suggesting they are equal to a 600w hps or 1000w hps. They don't come close to been equal to in either case.

 

[Randomblame]

@Geyapex Technology offers some built cob fixtures in the 200 watt range for 250-300 bucks. That is built and not a kit you assemble.

I'm testing a 200 watt citizen unit from them.

I'll still prefer DIY to avoid hotspots. With a frame you'll get a much better coverage and less issues with hotspots or bleaching. This means, you can use the lights at shorter distances which again increase your PAR readings. Even coverage and more usable light leads to better results.
This often small 2 or 4 COB units are not able to do this except you use a few of them.
I would understand if it were difficult but it's easy as hell to turn-in a few screws and poke-in some cables to COB-holders. And these DIY kits, for instance these from cobkits are complete if you want, only two hours more for assambling.
These kits save a lot of time and effort and also some money for shipping.

 

[CobKits]

Yeah, a 600w with 276w actual pull is obviously better than a 1000w that pulls 185w.

the first number in each case is just completely irrelevant

 

[HazednConfused]

the first number in each case is just completely irrelevant

It's not irrelevant when we're talking about false claims.

 

[CobKits]

but it is

the mfr could have chosen to call it a 500 or 1000 or 1200. all of those are 100% arbitrary and unrelated to actual power draw

 

[HazednConfused]

but it is

the mfr could have chosen to call it a 500 or 1000 or 1200. all of those are 100% arbitrary and unrelated to actual power draw

Okay.. don't see what that has to do with the original question. Should he feel impressed with a light advertised as 600w that pulls 276 actual watts over his current light that was advertised as 1000w, but pulls only 185 watts?
Yeah, he should because that means the manufacturer was less of a piece of shit than the other with making ridiculous claims.
When it comes to lighting up the plants, no the first number doesn't matter, but when it comes to his question, yeah, it matters.

 

[CobKits]

ok ill take "less of a piece of shit manufacturer"

were def on same team hating on those bastards!

 

[HazednConfused]

ok ill take "less of a piece of shit manufacturer"

were def on same team hating on those bastards!

Lol finally bro, glad we have an understanding. Fuck em!

 

[ANC]

Don't know if there is anything newer yet, but for every 1 umol of light an HPS puts out a top of the range COB or new CMH can put out about 1.6. Crap like Epistars in a Mars do about 0.9 so they are less efficient than high-pressure lamps. So, at best you can multiply Watts by about 1.5 to 1.6 to convert Watts drawn to output. In other words, say you have a bunch of COBs pulling 240W they can at best equate to about 360 to 384W.

 

[Randomblame]

But a CXB3590 @700mA puts out 2,5μMol/j...., Lol!