Round silos don't fit well in square rooms. That's why my vertical COB LED array is flat.I'm sure a cylindrical space could be built with COBs. Maybe a hexagon would be the most efficient shape in that case, there would be a minimum diameter of about 10', in my estimation.
That would be one bad ass op.
In-fact, I'm going to start running some numbers...
Thanks fir the photo. Nice setup. Looks like you can plants on both side.I used a vertical SCRoG trellis system which set the proper distance. The plants were clipped to the panel and the buds got wire tires to keep them from sagging too close.
Here's how the array was mounted;
View attachment 4007767
That's the whole idea; I had 144 sq ft of trellis space in under 80 sq ft of floor space. And that included the aisles!Thanks fir the photo. Nice setup. Looks like you can plants on both side.
Which older model COBs bro? How many COBs needed to match DE HPS? Any idea of the COB watts at the plus versus 1000 watts of HPS? Thanks.The thing is that with an HPS bulb you lose between 18% and 25% on the reflector. So when you remove that reflector and use a bare bulb indeed your yield per W will go up.
Still, the best single ended HPS bulbs will produce 1.8 to 1.9umol/s/W. A COB will easily produce 2.3 to 2.4umol/s/W. So with COBs (or similar SMDs) you'd have around 25% more light from the same amount of electricity used by HPS.
I was getting 1 to 1.1g/W with horizontal double ended HPS grows and with COBs I moved up to 1.4 to 1.5g/W. That's with older model COBs, current ones are already 10% to 15% more efficient.
Which older model COBs bro? How many COBs needed to match DE HPS? Any idea of the COB watts at the plus versus 1000 watts of HPS? Thanks.
I have been looking for someone who actually had COBS or a QB setup that beat SE or DE HPS in yield. Awesome info. Thank you.
I agree. There is still a lot of light hitting the walls with flat vertical. Besides, I'd rather do horizontal scrog than vertical flat trellis.Silo growing is a no-brainer with bulbs - though I still think there may be efficiencies to be gained with vertical LED, as there is always ambient/stray light to be captured. However, at this stage, it is just a hypothesis . . .
Indeed. Either COBs or strips. Just position the plants along a circle in a square room, light in the middle and go. I calculated that I could almost double the "growing area" in the same floor space and cut out most of the wall losses. Or cut the height of the grow room in half and still have the same size of "growing area".I'm sure a cylindrical space could be built with COBs. Maybe a hexagon would be the most efficient shape in that case, there would be a minimum diameter of about 10', in my estimation.
That would be one bad ass op.
In-fact, I'm going to start running some numbers...
Mate, thanks for that. Sorry I missed your post earlier. After a bit of reading, I'm starting to get an idea of what I want now, so a trusted contact is appreciated.Here is the link for the rigid/flexible strips
https://mufue.en.alibaba.com/?spm=a2700.8443308.0.0.GItq6b
Roget Zhang great guy does excellent work
me,,, calling my insurance company,, ring ring ringyour insurance company isn't going to let you DIY LED
I agree. There is still a lot of light hitting the walls with flat vertical. Besides, I'd rather do horizontal scrog than vertical flat trellis.
No, that's just a couple of separate flat verticals and it would be completely impossible to actually run that way and reach the plants from all sides. A circle I can turn around.There is more surface area in a square shape that a circle one. Take the square away and flatten it.
No, that's just a couple of separate flat verticals and it would be completely impossible to actually run that way and reach the plants from all sides. A circle I can turn around.
You cannot light up all 4 walls with one fixture, You'd have 4 sides which would be in each others way. Besides, the size of the lit up square is then also limited by the depth of the plants and the distance of the lights to the plants and you'd end up with pretty much a half sized square to the floor size and you'd lose the corners too. So in fact it's completely impossible to do what you said unless you end up with a vertical scrog with a light pole in the middle. Which would be a cylindrical vertical. Yes I would like that.Using a square fixture one could easily cover a square using LED,
You cannot light up all 4 walls with one fixture, You'd have 4 sides which would be in each others way. Besides, the size of the lit up square is then also limited by the depth of the plants and the distance of the lights to the plants and you'd end up with pretty much a half sized square to the floor size and you'd lose the corners too. So in fact it's completely impossible to do what you said unless you end up with a vertical scrog with a light pole in the middle. Which would be a cylindrical vertical. Yes I would like that.
You really didn't calculate anything. You have some made some assumptions which in practice just wont work.
What you realistically could do if you insist on vertical scrog is have two vertical scrogs back to back. It would be an annoying squeeze to get that in the same tent and the only thing you'd save then is a bit of floor space. I'm also not looking to double my wattage so a single vertical would be my only option and then I'd really gain nothing.
Moreover, I'd still have the same amount of wall losses as with a regular horizontal scrog. Floor space is the least of my problems and a horizontal scrog is a lot easier to do than a vertical one. So there is zero benefit in that for me and I'd rather do a horizontal scrog.
As @Prawn Connery was also trying to tell you, a circular vertical can significantly increase efficiency. Mostly because it decreases the "wall" losses. In fact it reduces that to one quarter of a horizontal or vertical flat scrog for comparable grow area. You probably lose 20% of the light on the walls, so you'd get 15% more light on the plants with a cylindrical vertical. That would be an actual benefit to me.
I did the math and therefore I know you are full of it. And yes vertical or horizontal scrog are in fact the same.You need to do some math, then you would understand and agree.
For HPS it works even better because of the lack of reflector needed yes, but for Leds you still cut out the wall losses as I already explained. That can give you 15% extra light too.Cylindrical works with HID, not LED. It is because HID is 360° and COB is more like 160° usable.
I did the math and therefore I know you are full of it. And yes vertical or horizontal scrog are in fact the same.
For HPS it works even better because of the lack of reflector needed yes, but for Leds you still cut out the wall losses as I already explained. That can give you 15% extra light too.
Anyway, sorry, but you really are a waste of time. I don't care about digging through your bro-sience. I'd rather talk to a vertical wall.