Espoma products?

whitebb2727 said:
OMRI doesn't really mean better or fully organic.

The inspectors that come out have a little wiggle room. Depending on the person, one may let something get listed that another may not.

I understand your concern though. I don't think its an issue with Espoma products.

I shall look into Organicare products. How much does their products cost?

I like "Down to Earth" products to. I have used their all purpose and its pretty good. They are OMRI listed.
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I use a lot of down to earth products but never tried the all purpose, is that for when you transplant or can it be used as a top dress?
 
Yodaweed said:
I use a lot of down to earth products but never tried the all purpose, is that for when you transplant or can it be used as a top dress?
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Here is a link to it. Click the video. Its good stuff. I let it cook when I made my soil. I have also topped dressed it on my house plants. I need to order some more. It cost more but is good stuff.

It says non burning and safe to use on transplants and seedlings.

http://downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/blended_fertilizer/all-purpose-4-6-2/
 
20161231_074053.jpg what about adding garden tone after already transplanting? I was going to use some but I didn't want to mix it in. using fox farm ocean forest soil and perlite... about 30% mix. i just transplanted yesterday and so far i have not used any nutes. i don't want to burn... how long would i have to wait to fertilize also with that set up? and can i use garden tone with any decent result? I'm not trying to make the worlds best or anything i just want some decent yield for my first grow.
 
mmcma17 said:
what about adding garden tone after already transplanting? I was going to use some but I didn't want to mix it in. using fox farm ocean forest soil and perlite... about 30% mix. i just transplanted yesterday and so far i have not used any nutes. i don't want to burn... how long would i have to wait to fertilize also with that set up? and can i use garden tone with any decent result? I'm not trying to make the worlds best or anything i just want some decent yield for my first grow.
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The bag has directions on it. You follow them. You use the amount it says and work into the top couple inches of soil around the drip line. About once a month or so.
 
thanks i have read the bag though... i was just asking if anyone has used with success and was curious if i should run it at half strength and if i have to wait a certain amount of time after transplanting also. based on the soil fox farms ocean forest
 
How much of the Starter Plus would you add for a 5 gallon fabric pot for an Auto? Going to use Black Gold Organic Soil. Weather here gets nice after Sept. Want to grow it on the Patio. Been nothing but Hydro till this Grow. Critical Purple Auto. Worm Castings go in the mix also??
 
Jypsy Dog said:
How much of the Starter Plus would you add for a 5 gallon fabric pot for an Auto? Going to use Black Gold Organic Soil. Weather here gets nice after Sept. Want to grow it on the Patio. Been nothing but Hydro till this Grow. Critical Purple Auto. Worm Castings go in the mix also??
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I'd add 1/4 cup of the biotone to a 5 gallon.

If using Black gold I'd mix in 10% volume of worm castings and some gypsum as well..

If you want to, try 1/2 cup of gypsum per bag of Black gold. You'll see a huge difference, especially with an auto.
 
MistaRasta said:
I'd add 1/4 cup of the biotone to a 5 gallon.

If using Black gold I'd mix in 10% volume of worm castings and some gypsum as well..

If you want to, try 1/2 cup of gypsum per bag of Black gold. You'll see a huge difference, especially with an auto.
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Was going to go with Oyster Shell in place of Gypsum. 1/4 cup sounds like a safe start with the Starter Plus. I burned a Pepper Plant with their Bio Tone. Added 1/4 cup to a 3 gallon Fabric. Thanks!
 
Jypsy Dog said:
Was going to go with Oyster Shell in place of Gypsum. 1/4 cup sounds like a safe start with the Starter Plus. I burned a Pepper Plant with their Bio Tone. Added 1/4 cup to a 3 gallon Fabric. Thanks!
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I'd say a TBSP per gallon of soil is about right..That would equal around a 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil.

Oyster shell and gypsum aren't the same thing. The Ca in Oyster shell will take around a year to become available. The Calcium in the gypsum will become available in about a week. This is why I suggested it, you'll see a much different auto using gypsum, I guarantee it.

At 50lbs I pay 11 bucks

Pretty cheap..
 
Really ^^ About $12 here.

I pretty much use Ca carbonate for pH buffering only and some Ca.

My main go-to for a Ca source is Gypsum. The sulfate form doesn't affect pH much, but is a fast source of Ca and sulfur and gets used fairly regulary over the season. Really does a number for flower production on peppers and tomato plants. A couple weeks after application there is a noticeable increase in new flowers.

Good stuff!
 
Wetdog said:
Really ^^ About $12 here.

I pretty much use Ca carbonate for pH buffering only and some Ca.

My main go-to for a Ca source is Gypsum. The sulfate form doesn't affect pH much, but is a fast source of Ca and sulfur and gets used fairly regulary over the season. Really does a number for flower production on peppers and tomato plants. A couple weeks after application there is a noticeable increase in new flowers.

Good stuff!
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I'm a DWC guy from the start. And use RO and Calmag. My tap water here is AWFUL! Right around 600 ppm this month. (PHX) I can tell when we go from ground back to Cannel water, drops to 400. Think Gypsum is still a add I need to make with the CM? My patio plants/peppers get the tap water. Thinking RO for this Auto Grow.
 
The key with Espoma is the ingredients need time to break down, so they are available for the roots to absorb. Outdoors, they are great products and quite cheap overall. Indoors, although fine, they won't be readily available initially- and you'll need to supplement. I still prefer products like Botanicare Pure Blend Pro for it's ease, no mixing mess and instantly available to the plants.
 
Wetdog said:
Really ^^ About $12 here.

I pretty much use Ca carbonate for pH buffering only and some Ca.

My main go-to for a Ca source is Gypsum. The sulfate form doesn't affect pH much, but is a fast source of Ca and sulfur and gets used fairly regulary over the season. Really does a number for flower production on peppers and tomato plants. A couple weeks after application there is a noticeable increase in new flowers.

Good stuff!
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I love gypsum. What's cool about Sulfur is it doesn't really have a negative effect on the uptake of any other elements..might adjetate P uptake a little.but I've never seen a major problem and I've done tests with LOTS of Sulfur.

Actually just made a soil i which I poured a shit ton of Gypsum through. The water soluble kind..

Ended up with a 3.0 ec
3100 ppms of Sulfur
And 85% of the CEC was Calcium

I started seeds in this mix and wow! Is all I really have to say. Very hard to dial but the root growth was better than hydro.
 
Jypsy Dog said:
I'm a DWC guy from the start. And use RO and Calmag. My tap water here is AWFUL! Right around 600 ppm this month. (PHX) I can tell when we go from ground back to Cannel water, drops to 400. Think Gypsum is still a add I need to make with the CM? My patio plants/peppers get the tap water. Thinking RO for this Auto Grow.
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Honestly you should be nuetralizing your water with an acid source such as citric acid and definitely put gypsum in there with that high of a ppm. I bet your water is chock full of bicarbonates..

Trust me on the gypsum, it won't hurt anything. It'll actually do a good amount of good. Try it out, you'll never go without it again.
 
MistaRasta said:
Honestly you should be nuetralizing your water with an acid source such as citric acid and definitely put gypsum in there with that high of a ppm. I bet your water is chock full of bicarbonates..

Trust me on the gypsum, it won't hurt anything. It'll actually do a good amount of good. Try it out, you'll never go without it again.
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I will go with it. I added close to 100lbs of it to my Veg Garden out back when I was developing that soil. Thanks for the input.
 
I recently switch to tomato tone for flowering from a chemical plant food and am very happy with the improved performance of my plants. still learning about this line of plant food but it looks like a real winner. the person who claimed it does not have the right kind of microorganism for growing cannabis clearly does not know much about plants. these microorganism break down nutrients into a form more easily absorbed by plants and work for any plant that evolved on this planet.I ad it along with chicken manure and perlite to keep a 25/75v ratio of perlite to soil when I recycle my soil.and it really helped in veg and flowering. at 3 weeks into flowering buds are noticeably bigger than in past grows
 
Jypsy Dog said:
I'm a DWC guy from the start. And use RO and Calmag. My tap water here is AWFUL! Right around 600 ppm this month. (PHX) I can tell when we go from ground back to Cannel water, drops to 400. Think Gypsum is still a add I need to make with the CM? My patio plants/peppers get the tap water. Thinking RO for this Auto Grow.
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I honestly don't know. The tap water here is ~28 PPM, almost, but not quite RO.

I'd listen to MistaRasta on this one.
 
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