David Music
Active Member
So I've been reading online and it sounds like I only water my DWC with just my nutrient solution is that true???
I'm a newb to DWC need help with watering.
- Thread starter David Music
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- dwc hydroponics nutrients watering
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
Fill the bucket with water to the bottom of the net pot, add nutrients, place plant in pot. Change the solution every 7-10 days. There's no watering in DWC, but you may need to add some water or weak nutrient solution back between changes as it drops.
David Music
Active Member
So the water I put in the bucket before i put the plant in should already have nutrient in it for the number of gallons of water in my bucket? Or do i mix a separate gallon with nutrient in it and just add a little as the plants drink?
David Music
Active Member
Thanks for quick reply also I'm super excited to start my hydro system up
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
Yes, the roots should always be in a nutrient solution. As the water level drops, add either plain water if EC is going up, a nutrient mix the same strength as the res if the EC is stable, or a stronger mix if the EC is going down. If you want to keep it easy at first, mix up an extra gallon or two every week and top up with that until the next res change. Check and adjust the PH of the whole res after making any changes.
A general guideline is:
EC goes down, PH goes up = too weak of a solution
EC goes up, PH goes down= too strong of solution
EC is stable, PH goes down slowly or is stable = slightly too strong
EC is stable and the PH slowly goes up over a few days, that's the sweet spot.
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
Don't forget to add an air stone to your bucket, to supply oxygen to your roots. Very important.
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
I start seedlings in RO set at 0.4 EC in DWC, which would be 200-280 ppm, depending on the conversion factor. Usually 0.1 EC of cal mag, the rest base nutes. Better to have to bump it up then burn it.
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
I use tap water, which has a PPM of 325 to start with, so I double that essentially.
I do push my plants, that I admit, but through trial and error have found that I get good growth with my ratios.
I use a recirculating drip system, and at harvest I'm at 1400 PPM, with no burn, just nice, big juicy bud.
Maybe I'm just a lucky fool
ILM
Well-Known Member
To each their own bro.i go slowly up from there.
i read the ppm meter if the water level is dropping and ppm goes down i up the nutes if it goes up i ease off and drop her down some.i find that works for me.
David Music
Active Member
Alright I don't have a ppm tester and couldn't find one at any nearby gardening/hardware store I'll just be very light on the nutes for now and order one. Now next question do I test the ph of my buckets and adjust them each day?
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
I test and adjust basically every other day. You fluctuation will generally go up as say from 5.8 to 6.5 in that time period which is normal and not bad, as different minerals are absorbed at different PH's,
Meaning that fluctuation is a good thing for total nutrient take up.
Just do 1/4 of recommended dosage for starters, until you get the meter. then you have the ability to dial it in to your exact formula.
David Music
Active Member
Thanks everyone for the help I put them in yesterday and there doing great so far
David Music
Active Member
What is going to be a good ppm for regular vegative growth?
be4meliz
Well-Known Member
Would suggest cutting hole between netpot and edge with holesaw in order to add/drain water and withdraw water samples for ph/ppm testing and use el cheapo syphon pump
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE9YEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your rootball will get so big it will be very difficult otherwise. I draw water samples with 60 ml. syringe and length of 1/4" airline tubing and put into small dixie cup to check ph/ppm easy. Can add fresh water thru hole- I go thru a gal. per pot per day in full veg. Also use pump to drain/ res. changes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE9YEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your rootball will get so big it will be very difficult otherwise. I draw water samples with 60 ml. syringe and length of 1/4" airline tubing and put into small dixie cup to check ph/ppm easy. Can add fresh water thru hole- I go thru a gal. per pot per day in full veg. Also use pump to drain/ res. changes
thick sticky sock
Member
pushing the plants is the whole point of hydro, I see a lot of people who are so afraid to feed them anything they end up with a lackluster grow and then conclude hydro is bogus. Hydro is all about finding the edge and riding it the whole time, that's the fun, to see the plants max potential fully expressed, not to cut yield in half to appease the internet community that feels the company is just out to get you.I use tap water, which has a PPM of 325 to start with, so I double that essentially.
I do push my plants, that I admit, but through trial and error have found that I get good growth with my ratios.
I use a recirculating drip system, and at harvest I'm at 1400 PPM, with no burn, just nice, big juicy bud.
Maybe I'm just a lucky fool
this is common:
"what's going wrong!!!???, my plant is nine weeks old, I'm only feeding 1/4 strength "evil nute company brand a b and c" but it's BURNING my babies, I'm starting the third flush now but they are getting worse!
choadChugger420 replies:
it's too much nutes brah, those companies want you to use way more than you need, cut that dose in half, add cal mag, ro water, flush again and start at 1/8 strength.
"thanks choadChugger420! That's the answer I wanted!"
two days later:
help!!! My BABIES ARE GODAMM DYING!!!! help please!!!! Why won't you help...MY BABIES???!!
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
It's been my experience that if your new to growing in hydro, don't push it to close to the edge. After a few successful grows then yup push it close to the edge. It's far easier to fuck up a plant by pushing it but it will also yield better if you know what your doing. I may not get max yield by keeping things on the low side but I also find things run more consistently with less monitoring and less work.......to OP, as stated earlier, keeping the water chilled should be a priority in a flooded system IMO.