Spider Mites kicking my ass

[MMJ Dreaming 99]

it takes time for predatory mites to breed to a productive level, by the time there would be enough, you'd be harvesting.
if i get mites before flower, i've found that alternating sprayings of spinosad and pyrethin work well, 3 days between sprayings, its killed everything so far.
once a plants into flower, i don't like to use anything but spinosad. spray it three days apart, at least 4 times, and that ought to catch all the eggs and newbies. you're a month away from harvest, keep them under control and it doesn't really matter if you completely eradicate them. just clean your area real well before you use it again, and spray the hell out of it with pyrethin before you put anything back in it.
they come in on your clothes most of the time, so if you have a garden outside, or take walks through the woods, change clothes before you go into your grow room, and it should help with re-infestation

What brand of Pyrethian do you use bro?

 

[dbkick]

If it's contact kill then the most important thing would be coverage. I use an atomist myself and this turns leaves over well, coverage is a breeze.
I like airless paint sprayers due to more control of spray than an atomist. I keep an atomist loaded with Riptide(pyrethrin with one chemical as synergist, piperonyl butoxide) on a cycle timer set to spray a few seconds every couple hours, I've found bugs panic at the first whiff of pyrethrins. You can get a 100 percent organic pyrethrin based spray but last I checked the ones without the PBO will cost up to 400 dollars a quart.
About that Forbid, that's ornamental use only, where it's not systemic it is translaminar and does end up in plant tissue.

 

[Chunky Stool]

You are in a difficult situation! I had the same problem earlier this year. It's important to know what you are up against.
I had the dreaded 2-spotted spider mite late in flower and all of my attempts to get rid of them failed miserably. Spinosad will slow them down, but it became less effective over time. You need to stop using it 10 days before you harvest, which will give the mites time to completely encapsulate your colas with webbing. DO NOT LET THAT HAPPEN! If it does, your harvest is completely ruined. Spray with mighty wash every other day during the last week and you can still salvage your buds (gotta wash em thoroughly when you chop). If you're outdoors, SNS209 works well. It contains rosemaric acid which makes plants taste bad to bugs. It won't kill the mites, but they will move to something more tasty. (I've got basil near my cannabis as bait.)
Rosemaric acid doesn't work indoors because there's nothing else to eat & mites eventually get used to it.

 

[MMJ Dreaming 99]

QUOTE="dbkick, post: 13739430, member: 248527"]If it's contact kill then the most important thing would be coverage. I use an atomist myself and this turns leaves over well, coverage is a breeze.
I like airless paint sprayers due to more control of spray than an atomist. I keep an atomist loaded with Riptide(pyrethrin with one chemical as synergist, piperonyl butoxide) on a cycle timer set to spray a few seconds every couple hours, I've found bugs panic at the first whiff of pyrethrins. You can get a 100 percent organic pyrethrin based spray but last I checked the ones without the PBO will cost up to 400 dollars a quart.
About that Forbid, that's ornamental use only, where it's not systemic it is translaminar and does end up in plant tissue.[/QUOTE]

Good info - thanks bro.
Airless paint sprayer like say an electric cheapie at harbo frieight? Where did you get a cycle timer atomist? Clever stuff. The bugs whiff pyrethium and freak? Nice. Pyrethium aka chrysanthium flowers.

I think DIY bug spray web site sells a spray for mites that is essentially cedarwood oil and lemongrass oil (love the smell) in about a 5 to 1 ratio. Supposedly the best essential oils for mites is Lavendar followed by Rosemary followed by Peppermint.

Misting any sprays really helps. I considered getting a fogger but they are about $100.

 

[MMJ Dreaming 99]

You are in a difficult situation! I had the same problem earlier this year. It's important to know what you are up against.
I had the dreaded 2-spotted spider mite late in flower and all of my attempts to get rid of them failed miserably. Spinosad will slow them down, but it became less effective over time. You need to stop using it 10 days before you harvest, which will give the mites time to completely encapsulate your colas with webbing. DO NOT LET THAT HAPPEN! If it does, your harvest is completely ruined. Spray with mighty wash every other day during the last week and you can still salvage your buds (gotta wash em thoroughly when you chop). If you're outdoors, SNS209 works well. It contains rosemaric acid which makes plants taste bad to bugs. It won't kill the mites, but they will move to something more tasty. (I've got basil near my cannabis as bait.)
Rosemaric acid doesn't work indoors because there's nothing else to eat & mites eventually get used to it.

When you are so late in flower - how about Hydrogen Peroxide. Not the 3% stuff at Wal Mart or drug store but the 20% or 30% stuff at Sally's Beauty Supply or the grow store. I think about 10 parts water to 1 part strong Hydrogen Peroxide.

 

[SoOLED]

I guess you have to figure, if its even worth the time.

if you don't have clones, of them to save the genes. try and take the cleanest cuts you can.


the worse part about a bad infestation is the clean up, so they don't even up in your next run.

 

[MMJ Dreaming 99]

Here is some of the best info I have seen about Green Lace Wings eggs. You can get them for $5.95 at Hydro-Gardens.com
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/orcon-ladybug-and-lacewing-500-adult-ladybugs-1000-lacewing-eggs-p-12391.html

Lady bugs for aphids and Green Lace Wings for everything else. These little lace wing larvae f**ks will eat everything including each other. They hatch by the time you get them and stay as ravenously hugry larvae for 21 days then become adults and lay eggs again.

I am not sure if they also eat tiny Russet Mites but they probably do.

 

[dbkick]

@MMJ Dreaming 99 I couldn't fix that quote you fucked up to save my life :/
But anyway yeah a harbor freight airless paint sprayer will work, I kind of want one of those cordless ones from home depot now that I've fucked my graco sprayer up by actually using it to paint.

 

[Dr. Who]

Hey
Great stuff as usual from Dr. Who. As he states you have to be relentless and through in cleaning, spraying and spraying again. Spray everthing and wipe down the light fixtures too.

Hey bro or doc - ever use the 1 gallon of water and an asprin aka Saqlacylic acid to fire up the plants immune system when it is stressed?

Making sure you also add silica to your feeding mix can make the plants stronger.

Asprin trick - nope.....Asprin will help a plant with abiotic stresses such as drought, chilling, heavy metal toxicity, heat, and osmotic stress.

Not bug infestations....

There has been an interesting study on it's being a plant hormone and how it aids in certain control aspects of plant growth.
Mostly focused on the vegetative stage. It's also found to aid in seed viability and flower pollination during drought conditions.

I find no real reason to use it.

Adding silica to soil plants is basically useless. The plant will get all it can from the soil it's self. If you use a pH up. Your most likely using a potassium silicate anyway...Only a cpl of UP's don't use that in them.....I use those.....The K2O3Si plays havoc with any Ca compounds (among others) you might use in your feed mix.

Now in any form of hydro growing.....Silica is a good idea. Not required but, a good idea. Too many benefits from it's use in hydro.

Sorry, not trying to be a dick, just clearing up the information

Peace on.

 

[MMJ Dreaming 99]

Asprin trick - nope.....Asprin will help a plant with abiotic stresses such as drought, chilling, heavy metal toxicity, heat, and osmotic stress.

Not bug infestations....

There has been an interesting study on it's being a plant hormone and how it aids in certain control aspects of plant growth.
Mostly focused on the vegetative stage. It's also found to aid in seed viability and flower pollination during drought conditions.

I find no real reason to use it.

Adding silica to soil plants is basically useless. The plant will get all it can from the soil it's self. If you use a pH up. Your most likely using a potassium silicate anyway...Only a cpl of UP's don't use that in them.....I use those.....The K2O3Si plays havoc with any Ca compounds (among others) you might use in your feed mix.

Now in any form of hydro growing.....Silica is a good idea. Not required but, a good idea. Too many benefits from it's use in hydro.

Sorry, not trying to be a dick, just clearing up the information

Peace on.

I appreciate good information from people with experience. Is there anything you like that helps to build thick stalks at the base of the plants? My friend said Silica but others say Mycorihaze like Great White. I know it is all about the roots. Thanks.

 

[Dr. Who]

My favorite answer is (drum roll) Kelp extract!

In college studies, It's been found that the use of Kelp can increase root mass by as much as 170%+.....NO SHIT!

Helps them grow faster and is my go to supplement to use at every transplant to reduce any stress it may create.

You'll find that no matter what you do. Some strains don't get any stronger stem or branching wise......I can't do anything to help my GG4's. Other then simply use support. Heavy, dense buds make them reach for the floor. Platinum Banana OG is the same way. So are others.

 

[jarvild]

My favorite answer is (drum roll) Kelp extract!

In college studies, It's been found that the use of Kelp can increase root mass by as much as 170%+.....NO SHIT!

Helps them grow faster and is my go to supplement to use at every transplant to reduce any stress it may create.

You'll find that no matter what you do. Some strains don't get any stronger stem or branching wise......I can't do anything to help my GG4's. Other then simply use support. Heavy, dense buds make them reach for the floor. Platinum Banana OG is the same way. So are others.

Yep, my side branches on my GG will hang to the floor if i don't support them.

 

[MMJ Dreaming 99]

My favorite answer is (drum roll) Kelp extract!

In college studies, It's been found that the use of Kelp can increase root mass by as much as 170%+.....NO SHIT!

Helps them grow faster and is my go to supplement to use at every transplant to reduce any stress it may create.

You'll find that no matter what you do. Some strains don't get any stronger stem or branching wise......I can't do anything to help my GG4's. Other then simply use support. Heavy, dense buds make them reach for the floor. Platinum Banana OG is the same way. So are others.

Thanks. My firnd got some free samples of Roots Organics line at the grow store a while back. Small bottles but they had a lot of kelp extract like their Extreme Serene. A friend who was going to launch a nute line said he liked some of their products.

I will look for some more generic stuff. Age Old, I think, has a kelp extract stand alone. They seem to be an underrated brand. Or maybe Neptune harvest. The local grow store has it in powder form.

 

[Dr. Who]

Thanks. My firnd got some free samples of Roots Organics line at the grow store a while back. Small bottles but they had a lot of kelp extract like their Extreme Serene. A friend who was going to launch a nute line said he liked some of their products.

I will look for some more generic stuff. Age Old, I think, has a kelp extract stand alone. They seem to be an underrated brand. Or maybe Neptune harvest. The local grow store has it in powder form.

Maxicrop seaweed


Check

Kelp4less.com

Good Kelp there too!

 

[Carolina Dream'n]

Too far into flower to do anything. Chop them. Clean room. Pyrethrum bomb.

Sucrashield. Pyrethrium. Neem oil. SNS217. Spinosad.

All those in conjunction with one another will kill spider mites. Spray every other day

 

[Chunky Stool]

Too far into flower to do anything. Chop them. Clean room. Pyrethrum bomb.

Sucrashield. Pyrethrium. Neem oil. SNS217. Spinosad.

All those in conjunction with one another will kill spider mites. Spray every other day

This is bad advice.

 

[Carolina Dream'n]

This is bad advice.

Please explain to me how this is bad advice?

Told him to cut his losses. No one wants bud with mites.

Gave a list of pesticides to use to get rid of said mites. Use one of them every 2 days....

 

[Chunky Stool]

Please explain to me how this is bad advice?

Told him to cut his losses. No one wants bud with mites.

Gave a list of pesticides to use to get rid of said mites. Use one of them every 2 days....

• You assumed everyone is like you, which is arrogant.
• Buds with mites can be harvested, gently washed, and used for cannabutter or hash.
• You are not familiar with the correct products to use in this situation.
• You also suggested that people ignore manufacturers instructions when they use the products you recommended for veg.

 

[Carolina Dream'n]

• You assumed everyone is like you, which is arrogant.
• Buds with mites can be harvested, gently washed, and used for cannabutter or hash.
• You are not familiar with the correct products to use in this situation.
• You also suggested that people ignore manufacturers instructions when they use the products you recommended for veg.

Buds with mites is trash. I don't care who you are.

All those products are used to kill spider mites. Not sure what you trying to get at there.

What manufacturer instruction that I listed tell you to NOT use the pesticide in veg???

 

[Chunky Stool]

Buds with mites is trash. I don't care who you are.

All those products are used to kill spider mites. Not sure what you trying to get at there.

What manufacturer instruction that I listed tell you to NOT use the pesticide in veg???

So you would just throw away buds with mites?
Nice.
Maybe you should read the labels on the products you recommend.
Maybe you should NOT give advice when you are ignorant on the subject.