What is the cheapest and easiest to set up Sunrise/Sunset controller?

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Strips are perfect for this reason because the light comes from so many small scoucres/from so many multiple angles so that it can penetate a lot better.
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
great posts fellas.

Yeah Vegaswinner, thats why in my picture, i have those colors. This can be pulled off with RGB strips, or even Adruino color changer im sure.

I have a design with this in mind that i was thinking about a few months ago, and its all in the design of the light itself, by beaming light at different angles other then straight down. Of course, youd have to use maybe 10W cobs with lenses. Pretty dynamic design.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Well, the expert has clicked-in to help! Thank you! You know a lot more about this controller than me and I am finished with my latin. If there are questions about controllers ask him..
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Strips are perfect for this reason because the light comes from so many small scoucres/from so many multiple angles so that it can penetate a lot better.
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BUT they MUST be lens or optics, because we want BEAMING/DIRECTED beams, because if the light isnt using optics, its just spreads. For the morning/evening, we want directed beams of light, I would think anyways.
 
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VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Strips are perfect for this reason because the light comes from so many small scoucres/from so many multiple angles so that it can penetate a lot better.
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I have strips on drivers, I do not use cobs. I have pcbs and strips all running on meanwell drivers. I also have a 200w 48v power supply to drive my 3w leds and a GrowGreen controller to control both leds and meanwell drivers. Sunrise/Sunset is using proper reds at the proper time, not dimming lights. Dimming lights is cool, but it does not change the plants daily health. Plants respond to light spectrum and light intensity. Light spectrum works more quickly, plant response to intensity takes longer for a plant to wilt or bleach out.

InTheValley said:
Yeah Vegaswinner, thats why in my picture, i have those colors. This can be pulled off with RGB strips, or even Adruino color changer im sure.
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Yeah Vegaswinner, thats why in my picture, i have those colors. This can be pulled off with RGB strips, or even Adruino color changer im sure.

I agree. I use dmx512 to control 12/24 leds with an arduino, and and Arduino coded for 6 to 12 channels to control 3w leds, re;lays, and PWM signals. I think all you need is conrol over Deep/Far Red to achieve what you want and you cna do that cheaper than buying an expensive aquarium light controller. I would focus on color spectrum, you could buy stevesled for like $40 to do the same thin instread of $200 for a coralux. I know I have used them all, which is why I built my own.
 
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confined

Member
VegasWinner said:
Sunrise /Sunset is a color spectrum control.. If you are talking about turning your lights on and off that is timing. If you want to dim them up and down, that does not really add to the plants health, but it looks good. Sunrise is using Deep Red to wake up your plants in the morning and Far Red at evening to put them to sleep. I have controllers that dim HLG drivers but I do not use that function. I use on/off function and Deep Red/Far Red light control Deep 30 minutes in morning Far Red 30 minutes in evening. Works great for me and saves a lot of money dimming leds, although I can dim and control rgbw leds 12/24v using one of these -> https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/STP16NF06/497-2766-5-ND/603791 pin 1- Arduino PWM, pin 2 - to led, pin 3 to ground. this mosfett only works on direct dimmed led strips with 12/24v power supply connected witjh one of my dmx512 4 channel rgbw controllers. I design and build a variety of controllers for led light systems using Arduino's, EPS32's, etc
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Ok now i understand a bit better... Maybe i'll leave the sunrise/senset stuff until i learn a bit more....

So, I am still going ahead with the build... 12 strips are here, just tossing up about the driver... Im totally new to this CV driver and bit worried im gonna fuck something up...
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Have a look over at plantedtanks.net. You will find several solutions. It is common in planted tanks to set a changing light regime.
 
C

confined

Member
Randomblame said:
It's a lot safer to use 48vf it you're no electrican.
Adding additional strips would increase effiency but if you want more power you'll need a bigger driver.
But you could use 2x 8 strips and a HLG-320 from start and dimm it down to what ever you need.

I've mentioned the 35w/sft. as recommendation because with ~50% efficient LED's it's already ~800-900μMol/s and if you use more light you should suplement with additional CO².
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It will be 8 x strips max per fixture, so I will be fine with the HLG-240 i think...

I think i'll order the CV driver... But what happens if 1 strip stuffs out? will it blow the others? Also little bit confused about wiring all the strips in parallel then the 2 fixtures in series to double the voltage.... Wouldnt the voltage stay the same?

I was set on the CC drivers, but when you mentioned its safer to play with 48v, it made me think twice about what i did with the 4 strip one i made with the Mars Hydro driver... It works fine, but imagine if I fucked up!?! Im working with 240v in Aus!
 
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Photon Flinger

Well-Known Member
Why? If it is for trying something new to you, go for it. Unfortunately you will probably be disappointed.

Like Hybrid said, plant in a window sill. Plants can take light right away without having to warm up so giver!

And PWM output to power the lights is an awesome idea. That you will be happy with. At least I am.

ANC, I got to check out that TC420, thanks for posting it.
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
confined said:
Ok now i understand a bit better... Maybe i'll leave the sunrise/senset stuff until i learn a bit more....

So, I am still going ahead with the build... 12 strips are here, just tossing up about the driver... Im totally new to this CV driver and bit worried im gonna fuck something up...
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Yeah, thats what i was explaining about spectrum. The intensity still needs to be the same, but it needs to start Deer red, then yellow/orange/main K, then back down the other side of the tent. But still keeping great focus on horizonal positioning for under branches.

Or, which would be probably better, light both sides bottom to top, then full blast for 6 -8 hours, then reduce from top to bottom for nighttime settle.

Cool hobby idea i suppose, could be practical practice but you would need 2 feet on each side of the plants to get great effect.

at the end of the day, the main objective is for penetrational purposes, and getting the horizontal light benefits like the sun presents in the early hours and later hours of the day cycle, and sleep initiation.
 
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VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
confined said:
Ok now i understand a bit better... Maybe i'll leave the sunrise/senset stuff until i learn a bit more....

So, I am still going ahead with the build... 12 strips are here, just tossing up about the driver... Im totally new to this CV driver and bit worried im gonna fuck something up...
Click to expand...
CV is easy. you just keep adding until there is no more voltage. You have a max current based on max voltage. How you wire your series/parallel circuit will determine how many volts you draw per diode based on the strip design. Like the guys said just review this thread one step at a time. You can control an outlet to turn your lights on/off any time. too easy.
 
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VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 has a great video or two or Far Red diodes. The same is true for Deep Red. Far Red is sunset, check it out sometime when the sun is setting. Deep Red is sunrise because you start from a dark royal blue to Deep red to Orange and finally Yellow/White. It takes about 30 minutes same for sunset.
namaste
 
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confined

Member
Righto, cheers ever so much for all your help.. Pulled the trigger and bought the HLG-185H-48A ... I'll be back if I get worried about any wiring, but think i have it figured out. Will prob see my delivery after the weekend :)

Have a great end of week/weekend everyone :D
 
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confined

Member
confused myself again actually lol

so its going to be 2 x 6 strip fixtures to start... that make 12 strips to run off the HLG 185H 48A... 12 divide by 5000ma is 416ma...

But, if I wire the 2 x 6 strip fixtures in series, that doubles my Voltage... But does it double the amperage and make it 833ma?


EDIT: All good, im overthinking.... 6 x strips is 833mA... run in series with the other 6 x strips and Amperage doesnt change but voltage doubles... So your all right, just the 1 driver will do it :) Also saved me about $15 with just 1 x CV driver as opposed to using 2 x CC drivers.
 
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confined

Member
Hold up... The strips are only 22.1V @700ma.... so at 833mA wold make it around 22.3V. But the driver is 24-48V.... Wont that overdrive the strips?

EDIT: Im a nob head lol I see now on the EB Spec sheet the maximum Voltage @ 700ma is 24.8V... :D thanks brain :hump:
 
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