Matching Drivers and COBs

Im just looking for some reassurance. I've ordered 5 x citiled CLU048-1212C4-353H6M3-F1 and a meanwell hlg320h 36v 3.5a. Is the 3.5 amp okay?
 
it will run them right at 36V, the exact wattage will be determined by whatever your thermal conditions are (hotter chips>more current) you can run any number of chips on that from 1 up to 10 or more. more chips>more efficient
 
CobKits said:
it will run them right at 36V, the exact wattage will be determined by whatever your thermal conditions are (hotter chips>more current) you can run any number of chips on that from 1 up to 10 or more. more chips>more efficient
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Much appreciated CobKits mate. Fuck I'd probably blow myself up without your assistance haha
 
Has anyone actually tried a meanwll hlg480c2100 cc driver with 6 vero g7 d version? Voltage at Tc 25 adds up to 232.2, a little bit over over the max voltage 229 but running them at 2100 ma (80ish watts) i suppose Tc will go up and voltage will go down a bit, problem is the vero datasheet doesnt seem to have a graph of Tc versus Vf, just min and max values.
Anyone tried this in real life? Did the driver kick into over voltage mode lowering the drive current? My guess is slight over voltage until the cob/heatsink reaches a thermal equilibrium. Any ideas?
 
key4 said:
I use tme.eu for drivers they seem the cheapest for uk customers.
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£126.97 from what I can gather so it is definitely cheaper. Appreciate that mate. Will look there for the next driver I buy. I wanna run a few reds (not sure which) aswell as the citileds but want to run them on a separate driver
 
I have a question.

I take it a little to the extreme, but would using let's say 20x CBX-1304 make any sense for having a better spread of light over a CXB-3070 COB (20x 458 = 9160 lm vs 1x 9250 lm)? It would then double the cost, and it would be more work hooking them up, but would it be more efficient in lighting deeper into your canopy, And also prevent more the problem with leaf burn, and so enabling you to have the COBs even closer to the plants?
 
havor said:
I have a question.

I take it a little to the extreme, but would using let's say 20x CBX-1304 make any sense for having a better spread of light over a CXB-3070 COB (20x 458 = 9160 lm vs 1x 9250 lm)? It would then double the cost, and it would be more work hooking them up, but would it be more efficient in lighting deeper into your canopy, And also prevent more the problem with leaf burn, and so enabling you to have the COBs even closer to the plants?
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At that point why not use strips or go buy some LED bulbs from Walmart?

Even with them being cheap lights dollar wise you'll still need to purchase a driver and heatsinks for them to run.
 
RandomHero8913 said:
At that point why not use strips or go buy some LED bulbs from Walmart?

Even with them being cheap lights dollar wise you'll still need to purchase a driver and heatsinks for them to run.
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20x CBX-1304 with roughly the same lumen out as one single CXB-3070 COB, and would cost double what a CXB-3070 COB would cost, why would I even consider buy led bulbs from Walmart? (:

The quistion is, would, using Bridgelux now as a exsample:
10x Vero10 = 12140 lm = $0.0032/lm
5x Vero13 = 14630 lm = $0.0028/lm
3x Vero18 = 12540 lm = $0.0023/lm
be better then
1x Vero29 = 12540 lm = $0.0019/lm

So not in $/lm, but would the better spread of light be more beneficial, compared to the extra cost of using more units?
 
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LPV-35-36. This would be perfect for one 36v COB @ 1000ma in a aprox. feet by feet grow..just for fun and experiments?
 
RandomHero8913 said:
At that point why not use strips or go buy some LED bulbs from Walmart?

Even with them being cheap lights dollar wise you'll still need to purchase a driver and heatsinks for them to run.
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Im going to have to agree, well except for the Walmart led light bulbs, compared to just about anything they not very efficient. COBs are a lot of work, you need Heat Sinks, Cob holders, reflector holder, but my biggest complain really is drilling out holes to mount the heat sinks. I have done about 60 cobs at this point, and for the life of me i haven't gotten any better at it. I always have to drill extra holes and make a big damn mess. Plus the thermo grease gets everywhere. I am starting to favor rigid LED strips for a quick and cheap build. But you do still need drivers. Also, I use a metric ton of Aluminum when i made my strip light. I think i used 46 feet of it. But it does look very pretty. If you buy 10 - 4 foot Bridgelux strips you can run them on a HLG-480h-2100 driver. Then run 2 sets of 5 strips in series, then run the 2 sets in parallel. You can run it at about 500 watts and the strips will run at 1050. Im a big fan. Plus Gen 2 are out, well sorta out.
 
Rocket Soul said:
Has anyone actually tried a meanwll hlg480c2100 cc driver with 6 vero g7 d version? Voltage at Tc 25 adds up to 232.2, a little bit over over the max voltage 229 but running them at 2100 ma (80ish watts) i suppose Tc will go up and voltage will go down a bit, problem is the vero datasheet doesnt seem to have a graph of Tc versus Vf, just min and max values.
Anyone tried this in real life? Did the driver kick into over voltage mode lowering the drive current? My guess is slight over voltage until the cob/heatsink reaches a thermal equilibrium. Any ideas?
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I am running a HLG-480h-1400 on 8 Vero 29s. It works great. I wish i had a 480-2100, I bought too many 480-1400's and need a 2100. Wanna trade? :)
 
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