applepoop1984
Well-Known Member
Indoor amateur growers mixing a strong acid that is listed as a known carcinogenAgriculture, stay with me here.
Indoor amateur growers mixing a strong acid that is listed as a known carcinogenAgriculture, stay with me here.
I just pour it in, but I'm working with 1300+ gallons in my reservoir. It take about half a cup to 1-2 points pH.Agreed. Muriatic is available at any hardware or home center. Don't try to measure from a gallon bottle. Wear vinyl gloves, protective eyewear/sunglasses, and a gas mask, and transfer 1 ounce, using a small funnel, to an eye dropper bottle.
1300? No wonder you use muriatic.I just pour it in, but I'm working with 1300+ gallons in my reservoir. It take about half a cup to 1-2 points pH.
My target level of Cl is actually higher than you'd think, about 100-110ppm. If I use phosphoric acid, I'd have to add a bottle at a time, as it's generally too diluted, and very expensive. It'd also make my "P" off the charts.I'd use the phosphoric acid before using hydrochloric acid.
Hydrochloric acid is a strong acid, but provides Cl, which the plant need very little of. At least too much chloride won't make your reservoir cloudy like too much phosphate can.
The best acid to use is nitric acid which is a strong acid and provides a source of N.
There's no way that number is correct. That's not nearly enough N.Nitric acid would also make my N way too high, as my target for that is only about 20-30ppm
Never took into account hydro grows, organic soil is more my thing, that being said I did this write up for a safer pH down for new growers who use soil, but for hydro setups p shouldn't be too hard to control if k and trace are supplemented and flower nutes are dialed backI'd use the phosphoric acid before using hydrochloric acid.
Hydrochloric acid is a strong acid, but provides Cl, which the plant need very little of. At least too much chloride won't make your reservoir cloudy like too much phosphate can.
The best acid to use is nitric acid which is a strong acid and provides a source of N.
Of course it's for hydro. You don't even need pH down in soil.Never took into account hydro grows, organic soil is more my thing, that being said I did this write up for a safer pH down for new growers who use soil, but for hydro setups p shouldn't be too hard to control if k and trace are supplemented and flower nutes are dialed back
I like to pH my water before watering, measure the pH of the run off and then gradually raise or lower the pH so as not to kill any bacteriaOf course it's for hydro. You don't even need pH down in soil.