PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Aluminum is expensive!I like the look of flat panels better
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
Aluminum is expensive!I like the look of flat panels better
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Ha ha. Ok well I'm getting the tube for really, really cheap. The store lists it for $14 a piece but I'm getting it for $4 a piece, so I can't really say anything else would be cheaper at this point.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
4$ for a 4' stick? That's cheaper than I can get the 1" angle...shweeet!
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Ya buddy! I think this might be a semi-permanent hookup.
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
After running across this thread and studying it, along with the data sheets on the EB series, I think I've put together matching components, but would appreciate experienced input.
I have a 2'x4' grow area and I'm thinking that 2 strings, each with 4 EB strips (BXEB-L1120Z-40E4000-C-A3), and each string powered by a Meanwell HLG-240H-C1050A would be about right. I plan to use double-sided thermal tape to attach each strip to its own 48” length of angle aluminum that will serve as both heat sink and frame.
So, am I correct that an HLD-240H-C1050 is a good match to power 4 of the BXEB-L1120Z-40E4000-C-A3 strips? Is there another driver that would significantly improve efficiency or output? Would these 8 strips powered by this driver be sufficient for a 2'x4' grow or should I think about adding another string, or maybe 4 COBs?
Any help appreciated.
I have a 2'x4' grow area and I'm thinking that 2 strings, each with 4 EB strips (BXEB-L1120Z-40E4000-C-A3), and each string powered by a Meanwell HLG-240H-C1050A would be about right. I plan to use double-sided thermal tape to attach each strip to its own 48” length of angle aluminum that will serve as both heat sink and frame.
So, am I correct that an HLD-240H-C1050 is a good match to power 4 of the BXEB-L1120Z-40E4000-C-A3 strips? Is there another driver that would significantly improve efficiency or output? Would these 8 strips powered by this driver be sufficient for a 2'x4' grow or should I think about adding another string, or maybe 4 COBs?
Any help appreciated.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
i thankfully salvaged all my AL, but when i looked up the 6061 i was floored, nearly $10/foot at a supply house for 2" channel....i have some even thicker, like 3/8 in base...that is waiting for something in future
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
I run 4 strips a foot. And the ELG-200-C-1050 as mentioned above would be a great choice. I have used the ELG line with good results. I like the B version with external dimming pot...but that is me. The good thing with 2 supplies is that you can use a 50K linear pot and dim them both at the same time! You'll have to show us pics when you're all done.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Doh! I should have gotten the B. All three of my meanwells are A - im afraid of dimming wires
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
Here's what I am up to......
The order came in today, 32- 560mm EB series 3500K STRIPS.
I'm going to run 11 of those at 700ma on an ELG240HC700. They will be mounted into the leftover housing from a gutted out 2'x2' "troffer" floro fixture. I have no idea what sort of footprint this will create just yet, I basically was given 9 of these fixtures for $5 each at a construction salvage sale, and as I read elsewhere in this thread, no sense trying to reinvent the wheel here, they are already light fixtures!
For the second stage of my experiment, I will run the remaining 21 strips in this layout:
7- 560mm @ 1050m per "troffer" run between: 2- HLG185HC1050s and one HLG185HC1400 turned down to 1050ma....... One could wonder, what is with that driver arrangement? I had a spare 185/1400, had to find a way to use up that forward voltage I've already paid for....
The idea was to get as even of a spread as possible, at the same amperage, over the 2'x6' housing that I can create by fitting 3 of those "troffers" together. It breaks down to 8 strips on each of the 1050ma drivers, and 5 strips on the 1400ma driver, dimmed to 1050ma, but to get the even spread I'm after, 2 of the sections of the housing will have strips wired from different drivers LOL.
It took me weeks to decide how much light I was after, since my housings were 2 feet each, this is what I finally decided to try, NO MORE redesigns, enough is enough, the parts are here I'm putting it together!!!
All that being said, now I have to decide how to attach the strips to the housing....
Screws? Kapton tape? Magnets? Thermal tape? I'm open to suggestions, and or ridicule.....
The order came in today, 32- 560mm EB series 3500K STRIPS.
I'm going to run 11 of those at 700ma on an ELG240HC700. They will be mounted into the leftover housing from a gutted out 2'x2' "troffer" floro fixture. I have no idea what sort of footprint this will create just yet, I basically was given 9 of these fixtures for $5 each at a construction salvage sale, and as I read elsewhere in this thread, no sense trying to reinvent the wheel here, they are already light fixtures!
For the second stage of my experiment, I will run the remaining 21 strips in this layout:
7- 560mm @ 1050m per "troffer" run between: 2- HLG185HC1050s and one HLG185HC1400 turned down to 1050ma....... One could wonder, what is with that driver arrangement? I had a spare 185/1400, had to find a way to use up that forward voltage I've already paid for....
The idea was to get as even of a spread as possible, at the same amperage, over the 2'x6' housing that I can create by fitting 3 of those "troffers" together. It breaks down to 8 strips on each of the 1050ma drivers, and 5 strips on the 1400ma driver, dimmed to 1050ma, but to get the even spread I'm after, 2 of the sections of the housing will have strips wired from different drivers LOL.
It took me weeks to decide how much light I was after, since my housings were 2 feet each, this is what I finally decided to try, NO MORE redesigns, enough is enough, the parts are here I'm putting it together!!!
All that being said, now I have to decide how to attach the strips to the housing....
Screws? Kapton tape? Magnets? Thermal tape? I'm open to suggestions, and or ridicule.....
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Some people say tape is ghetto and trailer trash...but I like to go with clear shipping tape. Then you can try your spacing vs coverage out before making a real commitment of screws or rivets. Supra was a big fan of Kapton tape. I have some Vero 29's still going strong 3 years after being anchored with Kapton tape...just saying. Please show your pics when you're done.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
The dimming pair is the safest pair of the three...max 10 volts. The other two pair you have every right to be...respectful of!
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
I really couldn't care any less about appearance, I was leaning toward tape myself. At the amperages I'm going to be using, I feel heat will not compromise the integrity of the adhesive properties of tape. Even if it did, the solid core wiring will be enough backup to hold a strip nearly in place....
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
fellow eb'ers wanted to share my temps
1\8" base aka 3mm ish...
500 ma
150 watts total 12x 560 strips
rough average of 35- 37C on the #2 Tc monitoring point
actual volt droop was 1 volt.....somwhere between .5 - .75% voltage droop
(also need to add this was in 3\4 enclosed 2x4 with No airflow and ambient temps of 23c)
I finally hooked up some k type theromocouples and took #'s on burn in
Couple notes:
- although I couldnt find a reference in EB datasheet, past experience w/ Bridgelux recommending K TYPE thermocouples if you want/ need to monitor Tc aka Case temperature
- and....I did find mention at least on 560mm strips.....that Tc 2 should be used and and Tc1\3 are for reference only.....
okay pissed because i cant turn off underline....even in fucking editing
1\8" base aka 3mm ish...
500 ma
150 watts total 12x 560 strips
rough average of 35- 37C on the #2 Tc monitoring point
actual volt droop was 1 volt.....somwhere between .5 - .75% voltage droop
(also need to add this was in 3\4 enclosed 2x4 with No airflow and ambient temps of 23c)
I finally hooked up some k type theromocouples and took #'s on burn in
Couple notes:
- although I couldnt find a reference in EB datasheet, past experience w/ Bridgelux recommending K TYPE thermocouples if you want/ need to monitor Tc aka Case temperature
- and....I did find mention at least on 560mm strips.....that Tc 2 should be used and and Tc1\3 are for reference only.....
okay pissed because i cant turn off underline....even in fucking editing
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Abiqua
Well-Known Member
So i wasnt done....lol
I also emailed Bridgelux today, asking for the Rj-c measurement of the pcb, which is not in the DS again (I imagine because of the no heatsinking claim, which suggests a low number)......
When that is finished i will add proper numbers.....
Why would anyone do this?.....
with a Tc measurement and Resistance of the junction to case ( Rj-c) you can calculate how many watts per degree rise, your heatsinking is capable of handling at a given Tc
http://www.mechatronix-asia.com/LED_heat_sink_calculation_simulation_thermal_design.html
I also emailed Bridgelux today, asking for the Rj-c measurement of the pcb, which is not in the DS again (I imagine because of the no heatsinking claim, which suggests a low number)......
When that is finished i will add proper numbers.....
Why would anyone do this?.....
with a Tc measurement and Resistance of the junction to case ( Rj-c) you can calculate how many watts per degree rise, your heatsinking is capable of handling at a given Tc
http://www.mechatronix-asia.com/LED_heat_sink_calculation_simulation_thermal_design.html
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
So you think I dont need a fan blowing through the tubes. Its not going to cost much to do it, I think Ill go ahead and do it anyway. I just wonder what else I can do with this fixture. I feel like theres more i can add but Im not sure what. Would adding a bunch of reds make it better?
MrTwist1
Well-Known Member
A fan is not a bad idea, although technically you could probably do without it. Remember efficiency goes up slightly as temps go down.
You could add some 630nm reds, but the jury is still out on whether there is much to be gained from that.
If you haven't done it already, I would recommend considering building a far red flower initiator for this light.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Why not use C-channels and drive them full passive?
You need ~110cm² cooling area for one watt of heat. Suspecting the strips are 50% efficient half of the power is heat.
With a C-channel 25x 25x 25x 1-2mm, 4' long you got ~1750cm² cooling area : 110 = 15,9w.
So one of these channels are enough to remove 15,9w of heat.
This means you can drive a mounted strip at least at 32w without any airflow.
With some air movement safe to 40w and if you want to drive them harder, take C-channels in 30x30x30 or 35x35x35mm. They save costs and weight and C-Channels give the better cooling than tubes, which can not use the inside without radial blowers for cooling.
I like the idea to supplement the strips with additional deep- and far-reds monos mounted one the same typ of channels and placed between the whites.
With a separate driver for flowering and to boost R9 values.. Makes a better CRI which seems good for plants.
You need ~110cm² cooling area for one watt of heat. Suspecting the strips are 50% efficient half of the power is heat.
With a C-channel 25x 25x 25x 1-2mm, 4' long you got ~1750cm² cooling area : 110 = 15,9w.
So one of these channels are enough to remove 15,9w of heat.
This means you can drive a mounted strip at least at 32w without any airflow.
With some air movement safe to 40w and if you want to drive them harder, take C-channels in 30x30x30 or 35x35x35mm. They save costs and weight and C-Channels give the better cooling than tubes, which can not use the inside without radial blowers for cooling.
I like the idea to supplement the strips with additional deep- and far-reds monos mounted one the same typ of channels and placed between the whites.
With a separate driver for flowering and to boost R9 values.. Makes a better CRI which seems good for plants.
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OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
even with passive cooling..just having fan air in the room running over anyofnour diy lighting devices
is perhaps the best heatsink there is..plus grows of anything need air movement..
is perhaps the best heatsink there is..plus grows of anything need air movement..
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
730nm put them to sleep right?
The 630nm I thought were to wake them up. I was going to have both plus some high CRI monos like Growmau5 did on the quantum canopy.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
How do you mount to the top of an open C channel? My bars have airspace between them so not sure how I would fix them to a crossbar.
Instead of using radial blowers inside the tubes ill connect all the tubes to a larger 2x4 tube and drill holes where they connect... so ill put a couple fans on the 2x4 and it will pull air through all the tubes with just a couple fans. Its too bad i dont have extra width, i could have put directional nozzles on the end of the tubes and pointed them at the plants for airflow.