Root bound? Can i still save it?

hey guys so i basically left this girl in a solo cup for 3 weeks... and then transplanted into this 2 gallon pot.
Its been 6 weeks old now

Any help suggestions would help!

CheersIMG_3426.PNGIMG_3428.PNG
 

G.V

Well-Known Member
Yes new growth keep happening, but they still stay relatively small, and the nodes are really really tight thatthey squazze toger as u can see in the pic
Well if its growing the roots are still alive, and although might take some time to get over the stress of getting tight and the re-pot, they should be ok.

Maybe there is another reason for slow growth?

Lack of light or air circulation perhaps?
 

Gary Goodson

Well-Known Member
I would let it go from those hooks. This kind of training is pointless because you didn't expose any under growth. So let it grow straight up and then when you have lateral branches coming out from underneath the canopy you can resume training.

Basically, you just pushed your plant over to the side for no reason lol
 
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I would let it go from those hooks. This kind of training is pointless because you didn't expose any under growth. So let it grow straight up and then when you have lateral branches coming out from underneath the canopy you can resume training.

Basically, you just pushed your plant over to the side for no reason lol
i do want to train it that way cuz i want to do it horizontally to get better light coverage. This is mu first photo plant, i always grew autos. They respond very well to lst because the side branches gets more light and bigger.

also, should i cut down the lower leaves to leave new leaves sapce to grow, more harm or good?
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Could also be your light, those blurple lights straight up suck. They will dwarf your plant. Spectrum is all out of wack, probably thinks it's in a rave.
 

DirtyD313

Member
i do want to train it that way cuz i want to do it horizontally to get better light coverage. This is mu first photo plant, i always grew autos. They respond very well to lst because the side branches gets more light and bigger.

also, should i cut down the lower leaves to leave new leaves sapce to grow, more harm or good?
Im not trying to be rude but you are training that wrong. Flat out. I train plants the same way you do and you are litterally making your plant grow sideways. The goal is to not grow it side ways but to still grow it up while stretching the plant out sideways. @Gary Goodson is correct. You are teaching your stalk to grow laterally instead of leaving the stalk vertical and training lateral branches. Hope this helps. And please for the love of your baby. Unpin her and let her stand tall. Also, look up super topping or check out a copy of a book called "secrets of the west coast masters" to get more details about thistrainong type. I threw a couple pics of my last horizontally trained girl for a reference.
 

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chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
all of my container plants are root bound before they go into flower. no matter, one gallon, 2 gallon, five gallon and even the garbage cans for outdoor season, they all got roots twirling around the bottom, all the way through flower even, root bound cups go to rootbound bags to rootbound buckets, bigger container = bigger plant.
 
Im not trying to be rude but you are training that wrong. Flat out. I train plants the same way you do and you are litterally making your plant grow sideways. The goal is to not grow it side ways but to still grow it up while stretching the plant out sideways. @Gary Goodson is correct. You are teaching your stalk to grow laterally instead of leaving the stalk vertical and training lateral branches. Hope this helps. And please for the love of your baby. Unpin her and let her stand tall. Also, look up super topping or check out a copy of a book called "secrets of the west coast masters" to get more details about thistrainong type. I threw a couple pics of my last horizontally trained girl for a reference.
Bro thx so much , i untied her, i usually grow auto and my first photo grow, auto respond very well vs lst
 

DirtyD313

Member
I have a hard copy. Of the WCM book. I dont want to cause any issues by scanning pages for you to read. But give me a bit when i go to my garden i will post a couple pics of their diagrams and throw some tips they put in there that made mine flourish and hope it helps you out.
 

DirtyD313

Member
The basis here is to have 4 branches with smaller sub branches growing off of it. These 4 branches growing off of your stalk will be known as your main branches. Any branch growing off of a main is called a sub branch. Any branch growing off of a sub is a secondary branch. (take notes. I litterally had a "tip wall" where i would write down these diagrams and tips to remember so i didnt have to flip through the book to find them)

Next main tip to remember. After you stretch them out laterally anything that grows on the bottom is called the "under-dark" it will have to fight harder to stretch around and above to get light. And will stress quicker after heavy buds start growing. Anything in the underdark gets cut off.

So to start. Let her grow til shes about a foot tall and has 6 braches about 4 inches Each. top the stalk above the 6th brach and clip the lower two off completely so now you are left with 4 branches. You want to SOFTLY keep them tied in 4 directions. Do not rip them off because a single branch will be 1/4 of your plant.


Build a training box. I did a pvc 2 foot cube (2x2x2) for mine. Like 25 bucks worth of materials. Went to lowes because they were the only store around me with the square corner connections for a pvc box. You will use training wire or ties to stretch your plant to the corners of the box. Follow the diagrams to figure out what sub branches to keep and cut off.

After it fills the training box up its time to make your SCRoG box. again I used pvc. Did a 4x4x2 box. (same height just wider) and zip tied trellis netting (or scrog netting) to the top. Again. Follow the diagrams and finish her out in the big box.

You will see a diagram saying mark your box. Do this too. Because this is your "tie spot" for whatever branch is labelled there. Double all measurements for your scrog box when labelling.

The "non sudoku puzzle" is where your tops should end up in your net. Following this you are supposed to hit 64 tops weighing a quarter a piece making that plant a pound. To clarify, that is 1 plant under a single 1000w light stretched out 4x4 feet with 64 branches/tops
I hit 14 ounches on my first one and im still trying to get back to that mark. Good luck man! I hope this helps you out. It sure did me. This book will teach you all sorts of things even making a bunch of your own gear like cloners, hydromasters, ventilated wooden window covers and some more. Definately worth the 35 bucks or so in my opinion.
 

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mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
all of my container plants are root bound before they go into flower. no matter, one gallon, 2 gallon, five gallon and even the garbage cans for outdoor season, they all got roots twirling around the bottom, all the way through flower even, root bound cups go to rootbound bags to rootbound buckets, bigger container = bigger plant.
That doesnt necessarily mean they're root bound. Roots tend to swirl along the sides and bottom of the plastic pots. Fabric pots like smartpots will air prune and redirect roots back twards the middle.
 
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chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
That doesnt necessarily mean they're root bound. Roots tend to swirl along the sides and bottom of the plastic pots. Fabric pots like smartpots will air prune and redirect roots back twards the middle.
when my roots are twirling round and round for inches up the inside of every container, what do you call that if not root bound?
 
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