nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
CFL is fine for clones.
Just winging it.
- Thread starter Squidkid
- Start date
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
Very fine indeed.
Did you have them in a completely closed environment in which 100% air humidity was present? And the cut stem in clean water around pH 6.0? Give them 24h light in blue/white spectrum and then after 1-2 weeks roots should form. Keep the medium always damp, but not as wet as in completely soaked.
Did you have them in a completely closed environment in which 100% air humidity was present? And the cut stem in clean water around pH 6.0? Give them 24h light in blue/white spectrum and then after 1-2 weeks roots should form. Keep the medium always damp, but not as wet as in completely soaked.
Squidkid
Well-Known Member
I solo cupped them.with a clear chp on top with2 holes through the top.soil was damp not soaked.i really think my vigorous scrapping was the culprit to the demise of the poor girls.but oh well try again next time.still runnin Just the one girl she looks good.ill try and get a pic up of her this evening.
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
Did they have a humidity dome over them?
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
If you want cuttlings to form roots in soil you need to make sure that there aren't many nutrients in it, otherwise the cuttling will get stunted by the salts and fall into a state of doing nothing and will be dead but won't wilt (if air is saturated with humidity). You won't get any nuteburns in this state because the cuttlings will refuse to take saltwater in.
If you have an EC meter you can control this by flushing the pre-fert soil with handwarm water and measuring the drain, flush until EC is 0.1 or less. Use only very soft tapwater or rainwater or RO water to flush and on cuttlings, some tapwater has an EC higher than 0.5.
Or you can use neutral medium like rockwool (press together under water if it refuses to take in water) where you won't encounter any rootshock and can control if the cut formed roots every 3 days by looking at the ball which can be stuffed into small liquor glasses which give them enough weight and prevents the wool loosing humidity too swiftly.
And if a cuttling refuses to root you can unplug it from the wool and check in on the cut to find out what's the problem:
- If the inner white material retreated and you see a hole then the medium wasn't damp enough: cut it away until the place looks fresh and go on.
- If the place looks brown and is perhaps slightly slimey then your medium was too wet which prevents oxygen from reaching the plant material which subsequently rots. This time you need cut more away from the stem just to make sure no early rot water is still present in the lower part of the plant.
Only take cuttlings from healthy plants still in grow phase preferably from the lower part of the mother but not ones that stretched too much because of insufficient light. The stem should also be of normal flexibility, look green and not of "woody" appearance.
If you want to cut down time until roots form by 50% bath the cuttling at the cut in an auxin-solution for 30s directly after the cut then put into the medium allowing the rest of the solution to be soaked into the medium. Spring is the perfect time to make this from new growth from weeping willows. Keep that stuff frozen in between uses.
Leafes will get yellow over time, perhaps the lower ones fall off. Refuse to feed it any nutes! You'll do more harm than good.
If anything only spray nutes on the leafes. Buy a professional product for this and don't overdue this if "it doesn't work" ( = yellow leaf will most likely stay yellow anyway...)
Once roots form wait until you see enough of them before releasing them into an environment with lower air humidity. If a freshly rooted cuttling only has some very small and basic roots and you place it into hardlight with harshly pre-fertilized soil it will die in a day.
If you have an EC meter you can control this by flushing the pre-fert soil with handwarm water and measuring the drain, flush until EC is 0.1 or less. Use only very soft tapwater or rainwater or RO water to flush and on cuttlings, some tapwater has an EC higher than 0.5.
Or you can use neutral medium like rockwool (press together under water if it refuses to take in water) where you won't encounter any rootshock and can control if the cut formed roots every 3 days by looking at the ball which can be stuffed into small liquor glasses which give them enough weight and prevents the wool loosing humidity too swiftly.
And if a cuttling refuses to root you can unplug it from the wool and check in on the cut to find out what's the problem:
- If the inner white material retreated and you see a hole then the medium wasn't damp enough: cut it away until the place looks fresh and go on.
- If the place looks brown and is perhaps slightly slimey then your medium was too wet which prevents oxygen from reaching the plant material which subsequently rots. This time you need cut more away from the stem just to make sure no early rot water is still present in the lower part of the plant.
Only take cuttlings from healthy plants still in grow phase preferably from the lower part of the mother but not ones that stretched too much because of insufficient light. The stem should also be of normal flexibility, look green and not of "woody" appearance.
If you want to cut down time until roots form by 50% bath the cuttling at the cut in an auxin-solution for 30s directly after the cut then put into the medium allowing the rest of the solution to be soaked into the medium. Spring is the perfect time to make this from new growth from weeping willows. Keep that stuff frozen in between uses.
Leafes will get yellow over time, perhaps the lower ones fall off. Refuse to feed it any nutes! You'll do more harm than good.
If anything only spray nutes on the leafes. Buy a professional product for this and don't overdue this if "it doesn't work" ( = yellow leaf will most likely stay yellow anyway...)
Once roots form wait until you see enough of them before releasing them into an environment with lower air humidity. If a freshly rooted cuttling only has some very small and basic roots and you place it into hardlight with harshly pre-fertilized soil it will die in a day.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry I'm not familiar with the light setup you mentioned on p.1, so may I ask can you crudely approximate how many lumens you throw at your plants currently?
Thanks for the last pics btw. Can you see - some of the fan-leafs don't appear symmetrically but instead 1 to the left then after 1-2cm the other. Plants that get the wrong lightcolor during growth (or too less of the right one or alltogether) do that. It gives a plant too much height and indoors you normally don't wanna do that. Bluespectrum light 5.4k - 6.2k or MH will solve that. But it's only a very minor thing and not severe at all on your plant, just wanted to let you know.
If you've topped your plants you may additionally bind down the new main colas (first only the 2 upper) this will again promote a more bushy and flat appeareance instead of growing tall. This way the light from your lamps can reach all budsites in more homogenuous strength. It's also a bit dependant on the space available...
Thanks for the last pics btw. Can you see - some of the fan-leafs don't appear symmetrically but instead 1 to the left then after 1-2cm the other. Plants that get the wrong lightcolor during growth (or too less of the right one or alltogether) do that. It gives a plant too much height and indoors you normally don't wanna do that. Bluespectrum light 5.4k - 6.2k or MH will solve that. But it's only a very minor thing and not severe at all on your plant, just wanted to let you know.
If you've topped your plants you may additionally bind down the new main colas (first only the 2 upper) this will again promote a more bushy and flat appeareance instead of growing tall. This way the light from your lamps can reach all budsites in more homogenuous strength. It's also a bit dependant on the space available...
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
That sounds very promising, just keep going.
You can bind down the 2 most-top sidestems from cropped/toped plant this way keeping them at the same level as the previous pair below.
You can bind down the 2 most-top sidestems from cropped/toped plant this way keeping them at the same level as the previous pair below.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
The plant from the last two posted pics looks definitely very healthy. At this point bombard it with light it can use it. How is your current light timed?
