Mixed spectrum COBs

I'm only mentioning the water cooling because of my old pc cooler that's not being used. I don't know shite about any of this.

I'm only second grow in. With an over priced non cheapo chinese blurple cob.
I'm still learning all this.
 
Apart from being cheaper. Is there any other reasons to consider Veros? I know lumens are for humans. But how about their leading chip's PPFD versus that of Cree's best. How do they stack up when pushed hard?
 
Nugachino said:
a 5 and a 3?
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I tested ~6500K vs. ~1800K chinise 50W cobs under same conditions and i couldn`t see any significant difference caused by the spectrum. (6th week 18/6)
The space 3x4 covered by 335W seperated in pink1800K and coldwhite6500K watercooled light bars.

S6002013.JPG
S6002015.JPG

Cheapest watercooled solution is for shure a big bucket, little water pump and an old socket.
It helps me to increase humidity. Watertemp. 32°C airtemp. 27°C

S6002014.JPG

Since i installed a heatexchanger (165,-EURO) i save ~50,-EURO on my hot water bill each month. 335W / 18h = 80L hot water or 2 showers.
---> efficiency gain of your lampsystem >100%
running this coolmac system 20 years long i can save a max. of 12000,-EURO
Then i`m 76 and buy a little cabana on the latin pacific coast - for the same money.
S6002017.JPG
pacificriu.jpg
 
Nugachino said:
Apart from being cheaper. Is there any other reasons to consider Veros? I know lumens are for humans. But how about their leading chip's PPFD versus that of Cree's best. How do they stack up when pushed hard?
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Efficiency (ppfd/W) of current chips stacks up roughly something like this

citi 3618 gen6
citi 3618 gen5= luminus cxm32 = citi 1825 gen6
citi 1825 gen5 =vero gen6 "C" = luminus cxm27
luminus cxm22=citi 1818 gen6
citi 1818 gen5=vero gen6 "B"
cxb3590 = vero gen6 "D"
citi 1212 gen6
citi 1212 gen5

economy (ppfd/$) would prob look something like
citi 1212 gen6
luminus cxm22
vero gen6 "B"
citi 1825 gen6
 
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Nugachino said:
Why no blue spectrum Olive? Just curious
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With the 3500k you can add additional reds for bloom to be turned on/off and additional royal blue for veg. Build a custom light adding the spectrum you need to your base. For veg I start with 5000k and add more blue. For bloom I start with 3500k and add more red.
 
CobKits said:
Efficiency (ppfd/W) of current chips stacks up roughly something like this

citi 3618 gen6
citi 3618 gen5= luminus cxm32 = citi 1825 gen6
citi 1825 gen5 =vero gen6 "C" = luminus cxm27
luminus cxm22=citi 1818 gen6
citi 1818 gen5=vero gen6 "B"
cxb3590 = vero gen6 "D"
citi 1212 gen6
citi 1212 gen5

economy (ppfd/$) would prob look something like
citi 1212 gen6
luminus cxm22
vero gen6 "B"
citi 1825 gen6
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How you can compare 1818 gen 5 with Vero B? Because you sell them?
152 lm/W vs. 163 lm/W at 1.4A, 3500K, 80 CRI. Vero is much better at the same price (19 for 1818, 21 for Vero).

Same is with 1825 gen 5 vs. Vero C... Vero again wins and is cheaper 1-2 dollars.
 
Yeah. I'm not really interested in adding too many parts to this. I just want a light or three to be doing the work. Not adding all these little 3-5w chips too.

So the Citizen 3618's piss on the Cree 3590's do they?
 
KonopCh said:
How you can compare 1818 gen 5 with Vero B? Because you sell them?
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because thats how they test out in real world. veros are good chips i wont dis them at all. B is slightly more efficient than D and is the same price so is prob the best value of the veros imo. The Cs are quite a bit more efficient but also about $10 more so not as good of a value, and also driver availability is more limited at that voltage
 
Nugachino said:
Yeah. I'm not really interested in adding too many parts to this. I just want a light or three to be doing the work. Not adding all these little 3-5w chips too.

So the Citizen 3618's piss on the Cree 3590's do they?
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do you have one of those calvin stickers on your car lol?

theyve got about 3-4x as many dies and great heat dissipation so yes they are at the top of the heap as far as i know right now. i just got some 4000k 80s (my official reference spectrum for comparing chips) and will run it against the others soon
 
Don't own a car. So no.

Okay. So the next question is, what voltage. I noticed the (CLU058-3618C4-403M2K1) on Digikey runs at 112v. Where the others are more the normal voltages of between 36v to 69~

Is it something I should consider using. The only things I noticed in the data provided is that it outputs about 5000 lumens more than the lower voltage chips. And that the 150w driver I was looking at, would need to be swapped out for the 185w model.
 
theyre ok. i like the 1825 below 150W, its also cheaper and a 50V chip.

the only real reason to spend the money for 3618 is to run them at 150-300+ W/each
 
That's fine by me. I wanted a bit more oomph in my next light. As the next confine is just an estimated 2 foot square. It may even be 2.5 foot. I don't know yet. I'm just estimating for around that size. It won't be bigger than 3 foot though.
 
Considering I want to run the CLU058-3618C4-403M2K. Do you guys think the PF-250CC-C140-S-DM would be an alright option? I mean it runs at 200mA less than what Citizen test this chip at. That's not going to be that much of an issue right?

Also. I'm not completely dismissing the idea of additional leds to augment the light towards a certain spectrum. I just cbf trying to figure out too much crap right now.
Screenshot_2017-03-07-13-19-49.jpg
 
@CobKits you made a recommendation to me a while back to run the 038's rather than the 028's, which I have decided to do in my cab grow. 5 3000k and 5 5000k, both 80 CRI, over a pretty small space. What are your thoughts on this arrangement? Also, at room temp the string of 10 is right at the drivers max of 357v and 249w. Is it safe to run these HLGs topped out like that?
 
safe for the drivers, but ideal holders are out of spec at 250V (BJB@150V)

i have yet to hear of a problem from someone running holders over voltage and may be guilty of it myself.
 
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