DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

[TF9]

Hi Can someone help me find a good driver for My COBs ?
I have 5 x CLU048-1212C4-303M2K1 (3000k 80cri)

I looked at a couple of drivers so far :

HLG-185H-48a/b

• 5 COBs @ 29.8W each ?

HLG-185h-c1050a/b

• 5 COBs @ 34 W ?

HLG-240H-C1400a/b

• 5 COBs @ 50 W each ?

which of these Drivers would you get ??


Your help is much appreciated !!

 

[GBAUTO]

Hi Can someone help me find a good driver for My COBs ?
I have 5 x CLU048-1212C4-303M2K1 (3000k 80cri)

I looked at a couple of drivers so far :

HLG-185H-48a/b

• 5 COBs @ 29.8W each ?

HLG-185h-c1050a/b

• 5 COBs @ 34 W ?

HLG-240H-C1400a/b

• 5 COBs @ 50 W each ?

which of these Drivers would you get ??


Your help is much appreciated !!

My preference- use the HLG-240H-C1400B that will allow you to use an external dimmer to power it back when you don't need the penetration.

 

[TF9]

Thank you for your response @GBAUTO !
I' ll go with the 240H-C1400B
NB when i drive those COBS @ 50W i think i would get around 600 Umol/s which is a nice upgrade from my Spectrabox 5 180w which emits only around 200 Umol/s
it should work great for my 90x90cm growtent

 

[xKenya]

[First Post Alert, hope this is the ideal thread for this post]

Hello everyone!

I am planning to drive (5x) CLU048-1212 (3000k,90CRI,36v) COB LEDs in series with a HLG-240H-C1050B Driver.

I have limited environmental control of my garden at the moment, so I am choosing to run the COBs very softly (~38W each I believe); with plans to drive them harder in the future. The plan is to eventually drive them with 2100mA Drivers and then add some sort of dimming control. But for now, I am comfortable with a constant output (no dimming control, despite the "B" driver.) I just have a few questions that I am hoping to clarify and make sure I'm not misinterpreting the information from my sources.

My Questions:

1. Will the leftover Open Circuit Voltage cause any issues I am overlooking (such as popping/frying all 5 of the COBs on first power-up )? The driver's datasheet has 241V listed as the Max Open Circuit Voltage. So (5x) COBs @ 36V should utilize about (180/241V), should I be worried about the remaining 61V available? I believe in a series configuration, the remaining 61V just returns to the Driver from the last section of wire of the final COB terminal in the circuit.

2. Are Wago connectors (or any Level-nut / Push-wire Wall-nut connectors) a reliable method of capping the unused Dimming leads from the Driver? For whatever reason, I'm not a fan of the twisting wire caps.

3. Will Wago connectors be a reliable method for connecting a basic C13 (computer power) cable to the 110VAC input leads of the Driver? I plan on hiding this in a small project box. Will an 16AWG cable be suitable for 15-25Ft. of travel distance between the AC outlet and the Driver?

Any replies are very appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[GBAUTO]

[First Post Alert, hope this is the ideal thread for this post]

Hello everyone!

I am planning to drive (5x) CLU048-1212 (3000k,90CRI,36v) COB LEDs in series with a HLG-240H-C1050B Driver.

I have limited environmental control of my garden at the moment, so I am choosing to run the COBs very softly (~38W each I believe); with plans to drive them harder in the future. The plan is to eventually drive them with 2100mA Drivers and then add some sort of dimming control. But for now, I am comfortable with a constant output (no dimming control, despite the "B" driver.) I just have a few questions that I am hoping to clarify and make sure I'm not misinterpreting the information from my sources.

My Questions:

1. Will the leftover Open Circuit Voltage cause any issues I am overlooking (such as popping/frying all 5 of the COBs on first power-up )? The driver's datasheet has 241V listed as the Max Open Circuit Voltage. So (5x) COBs @ 36V should utilize about (180/241V), should I be worried about the remaining 61V available? I believe in a series configuration, the remaining 61V just returns to the Driver from the last section of wire of the final COB terminal in the circuit.

2. Are Wago connectors (or any Level-nut / Push-wire Wall-nut connectors) a reliable method of capping the unused Dimming leads from the Driver? For whatever reason, I'm not a fan of the twisting wire caps.

3. Will Wago connectors be a reliable method for connecting a basic C13 (computer power) cable to the 110VAC input leads of the Driver? I plan on hiding this in a small project box. Will an 16AWG cable be suitable for 15-25Ft. of travel distance between the AC outlet and the Driver?

Any replies are very appreciated.

Thanks!

xKenya, great questions.
1. As I understand how the driver works-on a constant current type it will apply voltage to the output circuit until the current level is at the set amount. As long as the string voltage is is the current control voltage spec range(which you are) then it will work.
2. That should be a suitable termination-you just want to insulate the wires from shorting to anything else.
3. Remember that the input AC current is quite low- 2A for a 120v input on that driver so a heavy gauge conductor is overkill. A 18ga conductor is rated for 14A so I'd use anything over 22ga for the driver supply-just make sure that it has suitable insulation for the voltage you have.

 

[TF9]

@Xkenia Nice to see someone going for a very similar setup with those 5x Citizen1212
When are you planning to get the build done ?
Is it possible to take some pictures during the construction of your build ?

It would be much appreciated !

Cheers , TF9

 

[swiftkillpapa]

I see we have people answering questions and I got one. I'm wiring in series 42 cree xpg 5 watt with 2 ir 5w and 2 uv 3w on a HLG-185H-C700B. Now that's running everything at a pretty maxed out wattage. I think if I did the math it was 4.6 watts each.
I want to throw a small low wattage citizen the clu038 1206. It's rating is about 58 watts.
Is there a problem with throwing both the 3 watt and the citizens in series to soak up some wattage? Or is they're a fundamental piece of circuitry I'm not understanding? thanks guys.

 

[TF9]

Hi @swiftkillpapa
From what i've read its not good idea to connect different types of LEDs to 1 driver, all leds connected to your LED-driver should have the exact same specifications.
If you want to throw in other sorts you should get an extra led-driver.

But that's just my 2 cents, lets wait for some more input


Gr, TF9

 

[Isawthelight]

Hi @swiftkillpapa
I hope you have not 'painted yourself into a corner' by purchasing all these parts. Tell us about your goals and someone might point you towards an easier and possibly better and cheaper option. Please show your math.... I'll show some approximath... This series combo would use approximately 120 Watts

42 XPG3 at 0.7Amps eats up about 126 Volts and about 88 Watts. Power (W) = Volts (V) * Current (A)
clu038 1206 at 0.7A eats up about 35 Volts and about 25 Watts
2 IR 5W diodes might consume 7 Volts and 6 Watts.
2 UV 3w diodes 6 Volts and 6 watts

You still have about 94 Volts and 64 Watt capability left unused in that LED & driver parts list yor .

About putting all those different diodes in series.... All those in series will light up with a current of 700 milliamps. That driver can put out more than 700ma if the dimmer leads are not used = could burn your UV LEDs ( Put those two UV LEDs in parallel with each other so they run at a safe 350mA) You might have problems if you use the dimming option to reduce all LED current.... some LEDs families will stop emitting light while others are still bright.

 

[KonopCh]

I will run 4x Vero 29 B (3000K, 90 CRI) at 1050 mA with ELG-240-1050A. I have around 25V space for ... I don't know, far red maybe? Can you guys give me advice which ones and how to wire them on driver with Vero's?

 

[swiftkillpapa]

Hi @swiftkillpapa
I hope you have not 'painted yourself into a corner' by purchasing all these parts. Tell us about your goals and someone might point you towards an easier and possibly better and cheaper option. Please show your math.... I'll show some approximath... This series combo would use approximately 120 Watts

42 XPG3 at 0.7Amps eats up about 126 Volts and about 88 Watts. Power (W) = Volts (V) * Current (A)
clu038 1206 at 0.7A eats up about 35 Volts and about 25 Watts
2 IR 5W diodes might consume 7 Volts and 6 Watts.
2 UV 3w diodes 6 Volts and 6 watts

You still have about 94 Volts and 64 Watt capability left unused in that LED & driver parts list yor .

About putting all those different diodes in series.... All those in series will light up with a current of 700 milliamps. That driver can put out more than 700ma if the dimmer leads are not used = could burn your UV LEDs ( Put those two UV LEDs in parallel with each other so they run at a safe 350mA) You might have problems if you use the dimming option to reduce all LED current.... some LEDs families will stop emitting light while others are still bright.

I'll get you a not elaborate picture and explanation but at the moment here's the short. We're doing a 16"x72" custom table. 2 tier and I'm trying to do 6 3"x14" heat sinks. Each heat sink will have 7 xpg (not 3) so 7x6 is my 42 with uv and ir thrown in to add. These are for flower only. Using hlg185h c700 i was hoping to wire enough to not strain the leds. I'm trying to write before i forget to. Any other things I need to explain better?
Adding to it would I just be better to do a 100w driver instead with all the xpg instead?

 

[GBAUTO]

I see we have people answering questions and I got one. I'm wiring in series 42 cree xpg 5 watt with 2 ir 5w and 2 uv 3w on a HLG-185H-C700B. Now that's running everything at a pretty maxed out wattage. I think if I did the math it was 4.6 watts each.
I want to throw a small low wattage citizen the clu038 1206. It's rating is about 58 watts.
Is there a problem with throwing both the 3 watt and the citizens in series to soak up some wattage? Or is they're a fundamental piece of circuitry I'm not understanding? thanks guys.

Add up the forward voltage requirement for each of the diode you use and see if the driver can operate at that voltage. One other thing is make sure that each of the types of diodes you use can handle the same amount of forward current(700mA) in your example.

 

[Isawthelight]

I'll get you a not elaborate picture and explanation but at the moment here's the short. We're doing a 16"x72" custom table. 2 tier and I'm trying to do 6 3"x14" heat sinks. Each heat sink will have 7 xpg (not 3) so 7x6 is my 42 with uv and ir thrown in to add. These are for flower only. Using hlg185h c700 i was hoping to wire enough to not strain the leds. I'm trying to write before i forget to. Any other things I need to explain better?
Adding to it would I just be better to do a 100w driver instead with all the xpg instead?

Have you spent the money on parts yet?? I hope not. Kits take all or most of the worry out of lighting your personal space. I'd rather point you to the kit people.
http://cobkits.com/shop/ https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all http://www.rapidled.com/horticulture-kits/ http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=MAU5+KITS http://timbergrowlights.com/
We are talking about flowering spectrum lighting for eight square feet ((16"*72")/144'''') and I think you need about 25 watts of LED power per square foot of personal space. 8"" * 25 watts so a 200 watt driver is about what you need.

 

[swiftkillpapa]

Have you spent the money on parts yet?? I hope not. Kits take all or most of the worry out of lighting your personal space. I'd rather point you to the kit people.
http://cobkits.com/shop/ https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all http://www.rapidled.com/horticulture-kits/ http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=MAU5+KITS http://timbergrowlights.com/
We are talking about flowering spectrum lighting for eight square feet ((16"*72")/144'''') and I think you need about 25 watts of LED power per square foot of personal space. 8"" * 25 watts so a 200 watt driver is about what you need.

We did because the cost value. I've built a clu048 kit from northern grow lights. The problem is coverage bc we're only dealing with 1.5 ft of clearance. This is a very low pro grow and I was afraid of having to buy a shit ton of cobs to cover. I'm building it for a friend so I may have fucked up for him. He uses those China led from Amazon so I thought to expand that and do a super low profile even spread. I loved my cob build but I just thought this would need a different type. Plus it's all off eBay so the price was right. We're only doing one quarter of the room so I could do the other parts different if this sucks

 

[swiftkillpapa]

Add up the forward voltage requirement for each of the diode you use and see if the driver can operate at that voltage. One other thing is make sure that each of the types of diodes you use can handle the same amount of forward current(700mA) in your example.

Does excess wattage left over blow the led? Like say I have led that use 80 watts but the driver pushes 100 watts. Will that be a problem?

 

[Isawthelight]

Does excess wattage left over blow the led? Like say I have led that use 80 watts but the driver pushes 100 watts. Will that be a problem?

Should be no problem running 80 watts of LEDs on a driver that can put out 100 watts. The driver will supply the same current at 80 watts load & 100 watt load, but the driver's output voltage will be lower at 80w and higher at 100w.

 

[swiftkillpapa]

Should be no problem running 80 watts of LEDs on a driver that can put out 100 watts. The driver will supply the same current at 80 watts load & 100 watt load, but the driver's output voltage will be lower at 80w and higher at 100w.

So on the other note you think cobs would be the better choice even for a really tight low pro set up? Like say the clu038 1212. Some British supply sells them at ~$50 for 5.

 

[klx]

Does excess wattage left over blow the led? Like say I have led that use 80 watts but the driver pushes 100 watts. Will that be a problem?

Some manufacturers actually recommend that you use up to 80% of the voltage of a driver. Of course many people here push their drivers to 100% as a way of saving money but if you are using 80% then you are in the sweet spot.

 

[TF9]

CLU048 maximum power is 117.5 watt per cob so i don' t think you'll have to worry about that.

 

[swiftkillpapa]

CLU048 maximum power is 117.5 watt per cob so i don' t think you'll have to worry about that.

Yeah but can i wow they in series with xpg that are 5 watts?