Ppm question.
- Thread starter TheWizZ
- Start date
TheWizZ
Well-Known Member
It's well water so I start out with 70-90ppm.. I guess I kind of had some issues in the beginning and was adjusting things constantly so I got away from the chart I was following. I'm in full veg now I believe so I'm going from here on out. Since I've raised them to a total of 525ppm they've been doing great and are thriving.
dayl8dllarshort
Well-Known Member
I would highly suggest RO or at a minimum some distilled water. Get a TDS meter. Follow nutrient manufacturers guidelines.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
Manufacturer recommended feed schedules can be a bit aggressive depending on your grow type.. for example I'm running RDWC and I find that GH's feed schedule tends to burn my plants. I feed at about 80% recommended. That may be different in ebb and flow or DTW or coco... use the nutrient manufacturers feed chart as a baseline but be prepared to adjust if you see signs of a problem.
eugene b
Well-Known Member
dont count the ppm out of the tap just add the nutrients to the ppm you want and discard the baseline nutrient reading from the tap...so 0 from 150 then what ever the level you want from your nutrients...its what you do when doing res changes in dwc...also your ppm could go higher than 650 depending on strain of course but in full vedge i would run it higher than that...
eugene b
Well-Known Member
i do dwc hydroponics and start on quarter strength the feed schedules are always way too hot off the bat always better to dial them in easy lol...
ZxcStaz
Active Member
Do you plan on using the well water for an extended period of time? If you do, I would suggest getting a water analysis done. Many gardening or aquarium stores can get the testing done, not to mention your well company if it is artesian. It's not too expensive, and you should get the ppm breakdown of the dissolved solids along with the bioburden. Once you know this you can adjust your nutrient profile accordingly. Additionally, you'll know what you are drinking. If you have hard water, you might even be able to omit additional Ca.
TheWizZ
Well-Known Member
I just wanted to know a round about veg nutrient ppm range and if I was in the ball park(I've heard of people in the 500's and some in the 800's) ... I'm running 3 different strains and it's my first run. I'm just having fun learning so I'm not going to go with RO or anything else when my waters ppm is 70-90. I will eventually get the water tested like zxc stated..
ZxcStaz
Active Member
Personally I start at about 450 ppm. Humidity and airflow are major factors ; if its low humidity and large air turn over, the plants will get more nutes and raise the ppm over time ( and the pH in veg ). I watch for nute burn; burnt tips. I'll check the color; if they are not green in veg shoot in some more nitrogen. I like to foliar feed with about 90% NO3 and 10% NH4, ammonia in the form of Urea. This foliar spray is stocked with the micros and a pinch of sugar (glucose to be exact) and runs at about 200-300ppm pH about 6, higher ppm for older plants. You are using DWC, so make changes slowly, If you want to see how the plants react to increased nutes without the danger of completely frying them, try the foliar feed in order to ascertain their nutrient needs. That being said, I can't resist making a pun... Take my advice with a grain of salt. 
HarveyHarvester
Well-Known Member
I have here what is recommended by AN.
Although you have different nutes, am sure the ppm's should be the same i would think.
sorry if this don't help ya but think it might... remember, as it says, those ppms are for the entire week, not each feeding.
Advanced Nutrients Feeding Guidelines (directly from AN)
The amounts suggested to use are the amounts to feed for the whole week, if you want to feed more than once per week, divide the amount for the whole week by the number of feedings that you want to give your plants, give the plant just plain pH adjusted water when not feeding nutrients. (Ideally the pots are dry every 2 - 3 days)
In soil adjust the final pH of the solution to 6.3.
Feeding Guidelines
Don't start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new/true leaves.
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with Jumpstart, use application rate suggested on the bottle or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium (80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70F - 80F.
Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)
Week 1 - At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm
Week 2 - Mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm
Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks (you don't need to veg the whole 8 weeks).
Week 3 (is Week 1 on the vegetative chart) - Mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size.
Week 4 - Mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size.
Follow chart for additional weeks as required
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle (think they mean length of a light cycle or 24hrs?) of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week's feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom.
If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 - 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 - 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Root damage
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
Mixing instructions
If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.
If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.
Measurements:
1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.
Hope that helps bro.
Best of luck!
Although you have different nutes, am sure the ppm's should be the same i would think.
sorry if this don't help ya but think it might... remember, as it says, those ppms are for the entire week, not each feeding.
Advanced Nutrients Feeding Guidelines (directly from AN)
The amounts suggested to use are the amounts to feed for the whole week, if you want to feed more than once per week, divide the amount for the whole week by the number of feedings that you want to give your plants, give the plant just plain pH adjusted water when not feeding nutrients. (Ideally the pots are dry every 2 - 3 days)
In soil adjust the final pH of the solution to 6.3.
Feeding Guidelines
Don't start feeding nutrients to rooting clones or seedlings such as the 2 part Sensi A & B (Grow) until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new/true leaves.
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with Jumpstart, use application rate suggested on the bottle or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium (80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70F - 80F.
Entering the Vegetative stage, Use the Rooted Clones / Seedlings schedule in the nutrient calculator for the first two weeks of feeding)
Week 1 - At 3 or 4 sets of new leaves mix nutrient solution at 300 ppm
Week 2 - Mix nutrient solution at 600 ppm
Switch to Vegetative Stage feeding schedule if you are going to vegetate the plants longer than two weeks, the calculator goes up to another 8 weeks (you don't need to veg the whole 8 weeks).
Week 3 (is Week 1 on the vegetative chart) - Mix nutrient solution at 600 - 900 ppm depending on size.
Week 4 - Mix nutrient solution at 900 -1200 ppm depending on size.
Follow chart for additional weeks as required
When entering the Bloom Stage follow the medium feeding strength. (If growing indoors the bloom stage starts when the lights are switched to twelve hours of darkness and twelve hour of light).
Week 1- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1000 ppm
Week 2 - mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 3- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 4- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1600 ppm
Week 5- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1400 ppm
Week 6- mix nutrient solution including supplements at 1200 ppm
Week 7- Flush
The nutrient calculator is set for a 7 week strain; it can be customized for plants that require more than 7 weeks to complete their flower stage. Just click add a week.
The amounts suggested in the nutrient calculator are the total nutrient to feed the plant for a whole week, not the amount to give them per feeding.
If you want to give your plants nutrient solution more than once per week, divide the amount (total ppm) for the week by the number of feedings that you want to give them to calculate the ppm per feeding. A light cycle (think they mean length of a light cycle or 24hrs?) of plain ph adjusted water prior to commencing a new week's feeding schedule will help prevent lock out conditions.
Plants may increase their over all size up to 2/3, during the bloom stage, for this reason the feeding schedules in the calculator increases the strength of the nutrient solution every week, reaching the highest concentration on the fourth week of bloom.
If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7Th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Always reduce the amount that you feed your plants during the last two weeks of feeding.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves gets yellow it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 - 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels look out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1 (When in doubt flush them out).
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready. If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 - 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Root damage
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
Mixing instructions
If using the base nutrient stand alone, mix nutrients according to instructions on the bottle.
If also using supplements follow feeding schedule in the nutrient calculator.
Measurements:
1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
I hope that this is the answer that you are looking for. If you have further questions please contact us via e-mail or by calling our tech support toll free line at 1 800 640 9605.
Hope that helps bro.
Best of luck!
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
First off. You have spoken the cursed hate words around here! Advanced Nutrients can dry up and blow away!
FUCK AN!
A root zone temp of 70-80 F is like a death sentence in any hydro. Let alone any type of DWC!
FLUSHING IS A MYTH!
AN works, ok? BUT, it's split into nothing but a shit ton of different bottles that are watered down and over priced! Your being had! You and your wallet pay the price! Generally for a ticket to play one sided carnival games.....You know, the ones you almost never win at!
Grow up and get rid of the colorful cartoon character labeled bottles of "we cheat you out of your money" nutrients!
I can do better then AN for FAR LESS MONEY! Less work too!
Last edited:
Dr.Nick Riviera
Well-Known Member
Don't believe that or you will find yourself in big trouble.
TheWizZ
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the responses! Just to clarify I'm using GH nutes, cal-mag and something similar to great white I just can remember the name. My water temp varies from 65-75 and I've been okay so far with that. I was really just curious if I was shorting the plants because 2 are thriving and one seems to have slowed down but I don't have a clue on the genetics so I'm trying to play it safe. I'm also new and would like to end up with at least SOMETHING at the end of my first run lol. Again thanks for all the input. I can post pictures later to maybe give a better idea on where I'm at.