How are you building a big root system from cutting to flower?

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Many products and opinions out there, looking for more info.

Clonex
Root riot
Myko + base feed
High P feeds?
Air/fab pots
Root specific feeds
humics and so on

What, when, how often?
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Many products and opinions out there, looking for more info.

Clonex
Root riot
Myko + base feed
High P feeds?
Air/fab pots
Root specific feeds
humics and so on

What, when, how often?
Dirt pots and mammoth p and great white and good soil either super soil or my mix of promix bx ,greenfields as did roots organic original
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Lots of DO and chilled water along with a pinch of hydroguard which I can't get any more so I'll see if it was a giant waste of money lol
 

Jubilant

Well-Known Member
Get a good soil structure established with some organic no till, and your roots will max out their capabilities in the pots you have them in :)
 

ruwtz

Well-Known Member
I can vouch for Hydroguard to keep roots clean and healthy, and Bioag Vam endo mix to inoculate roots at transplant (must contact roots: just sprinkle it on).

Bubble cloner running kelp and fulvic has roots exploding at around 10 days. I've done side-by-sides with Roots Excelurator and Rapid Start, nothing beats the kelp/fulvic combo for growth and vigor.

Agree with above about well aerated medium. I'm currently loving 50/50 coco/perlite.
 

ruwtz

Well-Known Member
Airpots are good but expensive. Root Maker pots are also pricey for what they are but do well in avoiding root bounding (I only upsize to 3gal so this can be a risk). Fabric pots dry out too fast in low RH room, and messy to clean/recycle for the next run.

I've done all these and still gone back to regular plastic pots. I use a soldering iron to melt a series of small holes into the sides for aeration.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
If we are talking potting mixes a good dry cycle is the best way to let the roots search the whole pot for nutes and trace elements. They will fill the pot rather than get lazy from too frequent watering and basically grow right to the bottom and outside to circle the inside of the pot.

Waiting one extra day from when I thought I needed to water has ultimately doubled my average yield. While cutting down my water and nute needs.

I wait til the pots are dry 3/4 the way down the pot or more according to a standard probe moisture meter.

Once you check with the meter you can visualize how wet the pots are by their weight and just lift.

It still took one more day than I was paranoid already to wait before any plant started to wilt. And they came right back with water anyway.

Young plants get about a week between watering and mature flowers 3 days. I transplant up through veg as they get to the 3 day cycle.

I would post a pick of big buds in a little 3 gallon pot but we still have to wait for them to fix everything I guess.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I can vouch for Hydroguard to keep roots clean and healthy, and Bioag Vam endo mix to inoculate roots at transplant (must contact roots: just sprinkle it on).

Bubble cloner running kelp and fulvic has roots exploding at around 10 days. I've done side-by-sides with Roots Excelurator and Rapid Start, nothing beats the kelp/fulvic combo for growth and vigor.

Agree with above about well aerated medium. I'm currently loving 50/50 coco/perlite.

My man with the KELP in his hand!

Mixing kelp meal into soils and/or the use of a good Kelp extract can increase root growth by as much as 173% as found by South Carolina Unv. !

Kelp contains a good available amount of Fulvic's on it's own.

High P "root accelerator's" are "problems with too much P down the road" in a bottle. They don't work well for cannabis (just because something works well for other plants....Doesn't mean it works well for our plant!) This is simply nutrient makers "making money" off you and not giving a shit if it hurts your plant or not! I would avoid any nutrient maker that says to use High P for root development in cannabis during any point of veg..
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
If we are talking potting mixes a good dry cycle is the best way to let the roots search the whole pot for nutes and trace elements. They will fill the pot rather than get lazy from too frequent watering and basically grow right to the bottom and outside to circle the inside of the pot.

Waiting one extra day from when I thought I needed to water has ultimately doubled my average yield. While cutting down my water and nute needs.

I wait til the pots are dry 3/4 the way down the pot or more according to a standard probe moisture meter.

Once you check with the meter you can visualize how wet the pots are by their weight and just lift.

It still took one more day than I was paranoid already to wait before any plant started to wilt. And they came right back with water anyway.

Young plants get about a week between watering and mature flowers 3 days. I transplant up through veg as they get to the 3 day cycle.

I would post a pick of big buds in a little 3 gallon pot but we still have to wait for them to fix everything I guess.
Hmmm, When doing synthetic's or add to water organic feeds, I water everyday at lights on, a metered amount of feed/water, to carry me to the next day. As the plant needs higher volumes in bloom. I increase as needed. My goal is to simply water enough that the soil does not dry out and pull away from the inside of the pot. That tells me I'm not giving enough if it does.

I have no problem with the roots not running the pot...Water the edge of the pot - slowly. The roots will stretch out to the moisture. this is best done at transplanting for a while.

And of course, use some kelp extract after every transplant...
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Hmmm, When doing synthetic's or add to water organic feeds, I water everyday at lights on, a metered amount of feed/water, to carry me to the next day. As the plant needs higher volumes in bloom. I increase as needed. My goal is to simply water enough that the soil does not dry out and pull away from the inside of the pot. That tells me I'm not giving enough if it does.

I have no problem with the roots not running the pot...Water the edge of the pot - slowly. The roots will stretch out to the moisture. this is best done at transplanting for a while.

And of course, use some kelp extract after every transplant...
I should have mentioned I saturate the pots to about 20% runoff each watering.

Using only enough water each day is another effective method for the same reason. The roots will search out the water and nutes the same way as the pot is always drying out.

I add fertilizer in flower and need the runoff to wash out salt buildup. If I grew water only the whole cycle I would try it your way.

As usual we are likely agreeing :-)

i would like to say about seaweed. It's the natural gibberelic acid that helps seedlings and root growth. And I would never grow without some. It's in my soil mix and nute bottle.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
My man with the KELP in his hand!

Mixing kelp meal into soils and/or the use of a good Kelp extract can increase root growth by as much as 173% as found by South Carolina Unv. !

Kelp contains a good available amount of Fulvic's on it's own.

High P "root accelerator's" are "problems with too much P down the road" in a bottle. They don't work well for cannabis (just because something works well for other plants....Doesn't mean it works well for our plant!) This is simply nutrient makers "making money" off you and not giving a shit if it hurts your plant or not! I would avoid any nutrient maker that says to use High P for root development in cannabis during any point of veg..
Kelp is good is full of junk plants and humans can use. I like to hit my girls with kelp every two weeks.
Kelp contains at least 70 vitamins, enzymes, minerals, trace elements and proteins. It contains vitamins B1, B12, B2, calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium and iodine.
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the late response, didn't have notifications on ;p.

How would one go about adding kelp, only in veg?. Would you add it to normal feeding solution with synthetic or is it not compatible.
 

elkamino

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the late response, didn't have notifications on ;p.

How would one go about adding kelp?
From buildasoil.com's blog, although its posted many places:

Here are the instructions Per Coot:

Take 1/4 cup of kelp meal and cover that with about 1/2 cup of water and let it completely re-hydrate. Once that is done then pour off any excess water and use that for a kelp meal tea.

Take the hydrated kelp meal and puree it as much as possible to make a kelp meal paste. You'll want to do this in small batches and store in the refrigerator in the coldest place which is usually in a corner.

When you need to apply a kelp meal tea than add about 2 tsp. to 1 gallon of water, shake until it's completely dispersed and this is a safe concentration for spraying the leaves and you would probably want to double that amount to apply to the soil.

That's it!

Coot
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
I can vouch for Hydroguard to keep roots clean and healthy, and Bioag Vam endo mix to inoculate roots at transplant (must contact roots: just sprinkle it on).

Bubble cloner running kelp and fulvic has roots exploding at around 10 days. I've done side-by-sides with Roots Excelurator and Rapid Start, nothing beats the kelp/fulvic combo for growth and vigor.

Agree with above about well aerated medium. I'm currently loving 50/50 coco/perlite.
What kelp/fulvic product do you use for that, you ph water to 5.8?.
 
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