Vero/Cree COB custom setup

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avnewb

Well-Known Member
I want to finalize this setup so making this post.

Veg light is pasive cooled with 30x vero 10s on xyz power supplies. Plan to add nine vero 29s using three HLG-185H-C1400A Meanwell power supplies.

Flower room has 21 COBs with active cooling. 15 Vero 29s and 6 Cree CXAs on 7 of the same meanwell PS. For the most part its good but maybe need to add more circulation fans and may build shelves to put buckets on. May also add steel L brackets to light as they are hung on pulleys but the big one is a bit scary to move:



I just started a new grow and switched to Hempy buckets:


Not sure how to deal with drainage yet so that is one issue. As i said in flower may add shelves to raise as will help but veg room is tighter so idk.

Also MUST redo door between rooms as currently its done with zippers. This was only solution at the time but now think 2 half doors or an accordion door? would work.

Ive got a hyper fan and big phresh filter with lots of inlets so do not habe issues with that at the moment thou want to get the temp speed controller.

More info to come but needed to start thread.
 

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avnewb

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homegrown365 said:
I'm impressed. Should get great results in flowering. I run a similar pulley setup. Works great for my purposes.
Stay safe!!!
Success w/ya grow!!!:weed:
Click to expand...
Ya the pulley setups are from bike hangers. Work great and were cheap as got 2 for $10 or so. Using two on each fixture. Replaced rope with paracord.
I am on my 4th or 5th grow now but still need to make some changes to room.

BM9AGS said:
What is your spacing? I ran 15" per 50w cob but wish it was closer like 12" everyone suggested
Click to expand...
Spacing depends on cob and cooling as im sure u know. And then obviously how much "light" / lumens u want / need. Not sure what ure setup is but with help from @SupraSPL on both lights I designed veg light where it currently only uses about 240w.
Fixture is 50x36 welded together with 6 vero10s on each 50in length of heatsink spaced about 8in apart x5 lengths. The spacing was all calculated by surface area of cooling that these heatsinks provide as the veg light is passive cooling.
One fastech driver per six vero10s pulling 131v and 0.28a per driver.

Killowatt meter shows 243w total. Works amazing for such low power usage.

https://www.rollitup.org/p/11260111/
 

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Lurrabq

Lurrabq

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That's some good work using the heat sink as a structural element too. Never considered a linear heat sink.

Nice design there sir. Room temperature is fine too I'm guessing.
 
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avnewb

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The veg light puts off very little heat so things are a bit cool right now, around 63F, as I am not running flower light. Had to chop down everything due to not being able to walk so just restarting things now rhar im mobile.
Temps would prob be pefect now with flower light on as it puts off some heat but nothing like incandescent where id probably have to run an AC in winter.
I run a window unit in "other" room during summer to keep things cool.
There are four 4in intakes in flower room from other room and finally put four smaller 1.5in intakes in veg area. May add a couple more.
I use a 8in hyper fan on a 39in filter.
I then have five 4in tubes connecting flower room to veg room where filter is.
So basically rooms are passively cooled by filter fan which can and im sure does lead to temp issues. This is why i want to get the fan speed controller posted in OP as feel it would help regulate things better as would be more of an "active" cooling setup.
The door between the rooms has been a roll up zippered panda (white on both sides) POS setup and that is what im working on redoing now.
I made the room under basement stairs so things are tight. Had i planned door from the start i would have put a sliding "disappearing" door in but that will be a PITA to do now as i built 16ft long storage shelving on backside of room, in "other" room.
I have been searching for a real roll up door with side tracks for 2 years with no luck. A normal door could work but is not ideal. Two half doors could work but still not ideal.
So i decided to try a vinyl accordian door and hope to make that work.
 

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avnewb

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I put in a 30" door.

Much easier than a roll up door.

Painted one of the tubes that joins rooms so no light goes thru it. The other 4 tubes i had already painted.

So now all light tight and easy access.

I have been looking for trays for runoff but realize I dont need to go crazy, however these silly thin plastic trays will not cut it. I just watered and its a mess so need do figure out something.

To deal with 290ppm hard water i have cut with distilled water to bring it to 100ppm. Idk if i should just get an RO system or continue to mix. The RO water from wally world seems to be ok so $0.37/gallon of that is not too bad. Distilled is $0.87/gal...
 

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avnewb

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Heat sinks welded in. Six Vero 29s added.
Will use one HLG-185H-C1400A driver for each string of 3 in series which will each be about 150w so basically triple watts to about 600.
Just need to wire it up and figure out how mount drivers.
 

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avnewb

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Picked up two more Mean Well APV-12-12 power supplies to run the fans on the new COBs and another two APV-12-5 to run some more fan. LED supply has them for $6.12 shipped. They are fairly efficient at 78% for the 5 volt / and 82% for the 12v.

I have 3 Cooler Master 140mm fans and am about to pick up more. These are the most efficient fans I have found for the price. The Cooler master 200mm move more CFM/$ cost of fan but the 140 are more efficient in amps/CFM. Depending on actually amps used by the 120mm they are about twice less efficient but super cheap initially. I want to pick up some of them but if they do use .15a than that is not ideal but if they used 0.6a they would be as efficient as the 140s but less than half the cost.

Amps -CFM --Price​
200mm 0.16 ----110 ---$15.26 ----0.00145455 Amps/CFM ----$0.1387 price/CFM
140mm 0.08 ----60.9 ---$8.75 -----0.00131363 Amps/CFM ----$0.1437 price/CFM
120mm 0.15 ----44.7 ---$2.84 -----0.00335345 Amps/CFM ----$0.0637 price/CFM\
 
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avnewb

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One of the last things I need to figure out is how to setup the flower room.
This is really why i created this thread but think I know what I need to do now.

I am thinking I want to setup for scrog. Room is aprox 8'x4' (actual 96"x44").
They way I initially designed the room/light I left no room for me. To do scrog and make things easier I feel I need to build shelf to raise things off the ground. The door is on left side so am thinking I will build a 1-2ft tall shelf on the right side of the room that comes out 2ft or so from the wall leaving me over 1ft of space to move around.

However, if you look at my light the 7 COBs on the left will be doing very little unless I move them. Also, the whole fixture is nearly same size as room so I will also not be able to lower it under 68in without having to bend over.

So it seems that to do this right i need to take the light down, cut it to fit the area. This basically entails cutting the whole fixture in half lengthwise a bit past the center COBs and move those 7 COBs on the left (4 of which are welded in place) between the other two rows.
This will be a huge PITA so i better get started. Just taking the thing out is so I can work on it is the first task as it weighs over 50lbs.

First step done. Light lowered, moved and ready for surgery...
 

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avnewb

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I had been looking for a new dehumidifier. Found this deal but I already have a 50pt that seams to use same amount of electricity. This one says 4.8 amp and I just tested mine and shows 4.6 amps. I figured a newer one would use less but seems that its not worth it. What I do not have is the hose for auto drain which I would really like but not worth $150...mine has a pump but I do not have the correct hose for it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282315221627?customid=0b64c202e6b111e6b7a59ede832c8e5b0INT&pub=5574652453&campid=5337259887&afepn=5337259887&icep_id=117&ipn=icep&afepn=5337259887&rmvSB=true

So guess for now I will pass on upgrading.
 
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