Luminus CXM-32 Gen3 the next big thing??

bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
Silver or lead said:
You have all 3. What do you think?
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Im still working on building the lights.
Back cramped up last night so looks like Sunday Ill work on them some more.
I hope that Bobby is right and that they are closer in reality than paper shows.
I know they will still be better than HPS regardless.
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
Didn,t you say to ad 2-3% in effiency for the 32? Just to clarify for @john0000 so you can calculate for 1.4 and 1.7 amps of current.
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in my tests these ran closer than this so take the calculator for what its worth. cxm22 looks low to me.

ill try to run them in the sphere soon but that wont be for a week. the only cxm32 i have is 4000k 80cri but i also have a 4000k 80 cxm22 to compare it to. i ran the 32 but for some reason never graphed it but i did crunch the numbers as a quick check, that hard copy of the log sheet eludes me right now . the chip is on a pinfin ill have to remount if for the sphere or i can just do the old 12" spot test the graphs below are for 3000k 80cri
upload_2017-1-6_23-16-11.png
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
in my tests these ran closer than this so take the calculator for what its worth. cxm22 looks low to me.

ill try to run them in the sphere soon but that wont be for a week. the only cxm32 i have is 4000k 80cri but i also have a 4000k 80 cxm22 to compare it to. i ran the 32 but for some reason never graphed it but i did crunch the numbers as a quick check, that hard copy of the log sheet eludes me right now . the chip is on a pinfin ill have to remount if for the sphere or i can just do the old 12" spot test the graphs below are for 3000k 80cri
View attachment 3870206
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What is the blue line?
 
S

Silver or lead

Well-Known Member
I don't have a Cree to compare to but I did compare the cxm to a citizen 1212 3500k 90cri on a phone app. Of course this is a very unscientific test. It showed that the cxm was very slightly more efficient at 54 watts than the citizen is at 25 which lines up very well with what he has claimed so for.

I I did the same test on a CFL and t8 fixture and they just got murdered.
 
AtterStiga

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
Seems like these (cxm22) are best wired in parallel. I'm thinking the hlg185h would drive four of them @50w. Or rather, I was thinking that until I found out that the cc version gives more watt than the cv version.

So now I'm wondering which driver suits these babies the best. I love my cxb3590 four cob bars, run by one hlg185h-c1400b each. There is a real possibility that I'm wrong, but it seems the perfect spread, 3 bars of 4 cobs in a 3x4. It strikes me as a symmetrical and easily expandable into 3x8, 4x8, 4x4, etc.

Looks like the hlg240 is a better fit for this cob, about 200w in series, so extra cost for drivers... I assume it would be possible to get more out of the cv version of the 240 but I can't solve it yet. Would I have to use the 54v driver? Jesus, just when I got a grip on the series shit, now I have to learn another language lol.
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
AtterStiga said:
Seems like these (cxm22) are best wired in parallel. I'm thinking the hlg185h would drive four of them @50w. Or rather, I was thinking that until I found out that the cc version gives more watt than the cv version.

So now I'm wondering which driver suits these babies the best. I love my cxb3590 four cob bars, run by one hlg185h-c1400b each. There is a real possibility that I'm wrong, but it seems the perfect spread, 3 bars of 4 cobs in a 3x4. It strikes me as a symmetrical and easily expandable into 3x8, 4x8, 4x4, etc.

Looks like the hlg240 is a better fit for this cob, about 200w in series, so extra cost for drivers... I assume it would be possible to get more out of the cv version of the 240 but I can't solve it yet. Would I have to use the 54v driver? Jesus, just when I got a grip on the series shit, now I have to learn another language lol.
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Keep in ind the CXB is 36V Nom, and the CXM22 is 50V Nom.
This means that the watt per cob with CXB on is roungly 50watts with 1400ma driver, compared to the CXM on 1050Ma driver getting around 52 watts
 
AtterStiga

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
bassman999 said:
Keep in ind the CXB is 36V Nom, and the CXM22 is 50V Nom.
This means that the watt per cob with CXB on is roungly 50watts with 1400ma driver, compared to the CXM on 1050Ma driver getting around 52 watts
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I actually managed to keep that in mind, lol. I started my post assuming that 4 cxm22 on a hlg185h-c1050 equaled 4 cxb3590 on a hlg185h-c1400, but found it was 190v, thus not enough. The cxm22 seems to have great advantage economically speaking, but it seems to be depending on finding the correct driver so not too much driver potential goes unused. My ocd likes the symmetry of equal bars, and if I buy a tent for my upgrade they're symmetrical too. Long story short, I'm looking for a well utilized driver that can run four cxm22 in the neighbourhood of 50w each cob. My next run will be a vs, just working out which is going against my cxb3590s.
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
AtterStiga said:
I actually managed to keep that in mind, lol. I started my post assuming that 4 cxm22 on a hlg185h-c1050 equaled 4 cxb3590 on a hlg185h-c1400, but found it was 190v, thus not enough. The cxm22 seems to have great advantage economically speaking, but it seems to be depending on finding the correct driver so not too much driver potential goes unused. My ocd likes the symmetry of equal bars, and if I buy a tent for my upgrade they're symmetrical too. Long story short, I'm looking for a well utilized driver that can run four cxm22 in the neighbourhood of 50w each cob. My next run will be a vs, just working out which is going against my cxb3590s.
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Thats why I like constant V drivers, you can put as many as you want and control wattage they receive at the same time.
HLH-240H-48A or HLH-240H-52B could work for you
 
Chronikool

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
AtterStiga said:
I actually managed to keep that in mind, lol. I started my post assuming that 4 cxm22 on a hlg185h-c1050 equaled 4 cxb3590 on a hlg185h-c1400, but found it was 190v, thus not enough. The cxm22 seems to have great advantage economically speaking, but it seems to be depending on finding the correct driver so not too much driver potential goes unused. My ocd likes the symmetry of equal bars, and if I buy a tent for my upgrade they're symmetrical too. Long story short, I'm looking for a well utilized driver that can run four cxm22 in the neighbourhood of 50w each cob. My next run will be a vs, just working out which is going against my cxb3590s.
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HGL-320H-C1050 will get you your 50w...but I guess there will be about 100v not used...

Upgrade options for later..???
 
K

kaivorth

Active Member
The meanwell drivers:

The B series gives you the option to install a custom potentiometer.
The C series has one built in right? Any other reasons to get a C over a B or do I pretty much have it?

Also, do mounting screws come with the holder or the pinfin heatsink?
 
Organic Miner

Organic Miner

Well-Known Member
kaivorth said:
The meanwell drivers:

The B series gives you the option to install a custom potentiometer.
The C series has one built in right? Any other reasons to get a C over a B or do I pretty much have it?

Also, do mounting screws come with the holder or the pinfin heatsink?
Click to expand...
B is not just a potentiometer, it also supports PWM. So, if you want to remote control it with an Arduino or something you can.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
The C have a limited dimming u can't go down to say 10% & the internal pot is fragile it's actually meant to set & forget,not intended,designed for multiple adjustment
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
kaivorth said:
The C it is, I just want to manually dim. One less thing to solder and buy. Thanks for the input!!
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Fastslappy said:
The C have a limited dimming u can't go down to say 10% & the internal pot is fragile it's actually meant to set & forget,not intended,designed for multiple adjustment
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I use the internal pot type for my street light veg lights, and the internal pot is a plastic screw ad it starts to strip out after 30-40 uses because I cant see the thread well deep in there. And it only dims to around 50%
 
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