Growmau5's BML Spydr clone: a diy led build

bullisok

Well-Known Member
One problem is the cobs will likely provide more photonic energy causing that plant to consume more nutrients. I suggest separate rezes
i can't its not my grow op, i just build i don't grow anymore. And im not to worried about the plants under my light hogging the nuts bc the person that does it keeps very close eye with ppm meter thats wired to the res, they check that and ph at least twice daily.
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
the one question i do have is if im not using the IR light for just putting plants to sleep should i not bother with them? I've been reading the comments here and seen you guys talking about that and as far as i can see it seems like you only want to run them 10 min before and after other lights go off.
Thanksbongsmilie
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
when im done with this build im going to be running this light in a two month head to head against a Kind led K5 XL1000 and see how well it out performs the Kind. They will be feeding from the same res so the only difference will be the light, should be posting the results in January.
youd be hard pressed to run a kind xl1000 at 18" the beam is too focused. at that distance you'll end up with >1500 umol over a 2x3ish area
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
youd be hard pressed to run a kind xl1000 at 18" the beam is too focused. at that distance you'll end up with >1500 umol over a 2x3ish area
YA the height i gave is not a fixed number im not sure what height they are running the XL1000 right now i think their covering 4x4 space with it right now. Right now they're growing in about a 12x4 space with a 1000w hps at both end with the XL1000 in the middle. Im just trying to see how well mine perfumes against a high end led seeing as the LX cost 2200 in store 19 online and runs at 600w and mine also runs at 600w and will be sold at $2000 if it dose as well as i expect. Im trying to start my own carrier building custom leds for any layout because i see this as a big part in our future and im already an electrician by trade and a grower at hart and love building with my hands.
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
once i get a few lights built and sold i will be buying the different meters so ill be able to give exact data on how well they perform.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Meters will only validate what I see here- very high quality, well thought out panel. If you're currently in the market, IMHO, no need to wait, but I do recommend what Amare Technologies offers fully assembled with a very generous warrnty, and a number of growers with impressive grow threads.
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
Meters will only validate what I see here- very high quality, well thought out panel. If you're currently in the market, IMHO, no need to wait, but I do recommend what Amare Technologies offers fully assembled with a very generous warrnty, and a number of growers with impressive grow threads.
Ya but ill be able to give people actual numbers most growers know nothing about the difference in the quality of leds you use. I don't like that Led lights are made square for me and most people i've known grow they grow in a rectangle like on 3x6 of 4x8 tables and thats why mine is rectangle. Plus the thing i've hated about bulbs is that the light is coming from a small surface pulling everything inward. Then leds came out and they built them in a small square no bigger than the hood of a standard HPS making all the light still coming from a small area making them all still grow in toward the light. thats why when you look at mine the cobs are spaced out with diodes to help fill the gap between cobs. Theres a 13 1/2" gap from one cob to the next nearest cob.
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
I do recommend what Amare Technologies offers fully assembled with a very generous warrnty, and a number of growers with impressive grow threads.
for $2000 you can get their Amare SolarPRO 900 so called 900w led that has 4 cobs and 125 3w diodes and we all know the diodes don't really run at 3w its really 2-3w but lets say their all running at 3w that = 375w leaving us with 525w which means their running each cob at 130w and we know how efficient that is lol or their full of crap on the wattage of this light.plus theirs is designed for a 5x5 mine is designed for a 3x6 you could even raise the light up and push it a a 4x8 if you wanted to but not advised.
 
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PetFlora

Well-Known Member
for $2000 you can get their Amare SolarPRO 900 so called 900w led that has 4 cobs and 125 3w diodes and we all know the diodes don't really run at 3w its really 2-3w but lets say their all running at 3w that = 375w leaving us with 525w which means their running each cob at 130w and we know how efficient that is lol or their full of crap on the wattage of this light.plus theirs is designed for a 5x5 mine is designed for a 3x6 you could even raise the light up and push it a a 4x8 if you wanted to but not advised.

If you're going to make statements of fact, get them right

The Amare Pro 9 uses 5w XP-G3/XP-E2, not 3w, along with XML2 around the 3590's.
 
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bullisok

Well-Known Member
If you're going to make statements of fact, get them right

The Amare Pro 9 uses 5w XP-G3/XP-E2, not 3w, along with XML2 around the 3590's.
ok so thats 100w from 20 xp-g3/xp-e2 315w from 105 diodes and 120w for the each cob still driving them at an inefficient level so what differences does it make that i was of by 10w on each cob the fact is they are still running each cob at around 3.3A if they're 36v and 1.7A if they're 72v which is very inefficient with heat: photon ratio 60:40. If they were to drive their cobs at the same rate as my light the SolarPRO 900 would be 670w 45:55 ratio which give them 70 more watts than my light but mine will provide more even light coverage for someone growing in a rectangle space like i use to. Like a said the reason i got into doing the is because led companies are make leds to compact sure they can be used in a 5x5 space but the fixture is only 2x2 making all your plant pull inward toward the light. whereas my light is 2x4 giving better even light coverage over a 3x6 area.
 
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bullisok

Well-Known Member
If i were to build a 900 watt light it would be 3x6 have 12 cobs and 50-60 diodes. Would cost me around $1,600 and should have no problem providing plenty of light for 4x8 area and im sure as i do it more i will become more cost efficient. And would probably charge around 23 for it and as my cost go down the cost for buyers will go down.
 
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a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
If i were to build a 900 watt light it would be 3x6 have 12 cobs and 50-60 diodes. Would cost me around $1,600 and should have no problem providing plenty of light for 4x8 area and im sure as i do it more i will become more cost efficient.
Do 12 cobs light up a 4x8 area? Im trying to do a bar shitter fixture and i came up with a 4 foot long slut bar. Whats the 50-60 sex diodes needed for?
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
Do 12 cobs light up a 4x8 area? Im trying to do a bar shitter fixture and i came up with a 4 foot long slut bar. Whats the 50-60 sex diodes needed for?
The diodes are there because i want to increase the amount of photons im getting from specific nanometers and help provide and even light spread over the canopy. Right now on my 8 cob 2x4 light i have a 13" gap from the center of one cob to the to the next nearest cob and i want light coming off every inch of surface space as i can to reduce hot and cold spots. Also the diodes are on specific lines together so that in the first month of flower you can provide more blues, then in the second month you can switch them off and turn on more reds . On my 2x4 light i have (8 ) 3500k cxb3590 at 1750ma (24) 640-660nm, (8 ) 440-450nm, (4) 740-745nm, and (3) 380-390nm at 700ma.
 

bullisok

Well-Known Member
Can you help im having trouble with wiring my diodes. I have a LRS-100-36 powering 3 LDD-700H mounted to a LDD-3 Driver Board on line 1 i have 16 deep reds 45vmax line 2 i have 8 deep reds 4 ir and 3 uv 42v max and on line 3 i have 8 blues 32v max. The problem im having is when i turn the blues on, the other 2 lines go out, if i have just the blue line on and turn the other two on the blue gets brighter the others stay off.
Im assuming the problem is with the LRS-36 being too small of V should i put them on something like a LRS-100-48 because line 1 requires 45v which is the highest voltage requirement. The diodes are in series on each LLD but the 700ma LLDs are in parallel making my minimal driver requirements at least 2.1A and 45V
 
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