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Thanks
Fixture done
Drilling,tapping and sandpapering (does this verb exist in English? ??)has been p.i.t.a.
Have broken 3 drill bits inside hole and 2 tapping bits too.I have worked more than 1 hour just to remove broken bits from holes
I discover that screw can fit even if hole is not tapped.Of course the first time you screw it in non-tapped hole you must use some strength but it works (at least, in my case and that has been my lucky...I was with only half of hole tapped,and it was too late to find some shop open).
Put 2 120mm fan every bar with 4 clu048 1818.My heathsink is 150mm wide,25mm tall ( 20mm fin and 5mm Base thickness).
3 bars total,plus 730nm far red.
Remote driver,and junction box with remote controlling.
Every driver has its own potentiometer and switch(I used switch that cut both hot and neutral wire just to be sure,even if it has added much more work to do).
Wish to improve esthetic with wiring management but I do not know how
CobKits
Well-Known Member
se call it "sanding" over here (or more precisely "lapping" if youre trying to make it a plane surface
assuming you have a drill press and your holes are straight, sounds like your holes might be too big or wobbled. a cheap drill press pays for itself quickly!
i use this table:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_drill_and_tap_sizes
dont forget to use oil on your taps! easiest to drill all the way thru even if you dont need to- helps to clear tap cuttings. also tap a little- back out- clear cuttings-repeat. ive never broken a tap except by using excessive force
also self-tapping screw might be good for you- they have a flute edge at the end that cuts threads as you screw them
for wire management these arent bad:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-PCS-Self-Adhesive-Cable-Wire-Zip-Tie-Mounts-Mounting-Base-Clamps-Clip-27mm-/371692982266?hash=item568aa0cffa:g:ouQAAOSwARZXlhbm
VenomGrower6990
Well-Known Member
Harbor Freight has a 5 speed drill press on sale this weekend for $54.99 for anyone interested.
No drill press.
Just standard drill....I have broken so many bit because I made a big mistake...did not match where to drill looking the fin side....so sometime I drilled where there was just the base (no problem )and sometimes I found the final behind the Base, and that easily break my bit.
Sorry for my English I hope you can understand me
BTW. ....I wish I could be in U.S.A.
You can find almost everything you need (tool,accesories,hydrostore with every possible desired stuff)easily and cheap.
Here in Europe is much more difficoult
CobKits
Well-Known Member
probably the same one ive been using for over 10 years now
As requested from cobkits, here I am.
I am using 1818 with hlg185h-54 volt b.
The B version of this driver is strictly fixed.
It does not go above 54 volt,so if you are using a 1818 your max wattage will be around 130 watt and not above,just as cobkits chart shows.
If you plan to drive it harder,above 130 watt per cob,than you have to choose a version.If you look for efficiency and do not want to go under 50% and like the ability to mount driver remote,and remote dimming from 10 to 100 %,than b version will works for you
I am using 1818 with hlg185h-54 volt b.
The B version of this driver is strictly fixed.
It does not go above 54 volt,so if you are using a 1818 your max wattage will be around 130 watt and not above,just as cobkits chart shows.
If you plan to drive it harder,above 130 watt per cob,than you have to choose a version.If you look for efficiency and do not want to go under 50% and like the ability to mount driver remote,and remote dimming from 10 to 100 %,than b version will works for you
Victor6634
Well-Known Member
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CobKits
Well-Known Member
likewise, the 48V "A" series drivers i have, although they are adjustable, also top out around 53.5-54V.
the 48V "B" series tops out right at 48 and is largely unsuitable for this application, except for maybe some extreme low-current rigs.
in G84's application, the 54A model is a good option, it is adjustable up to 59V and covers the full range of the cobs.
generally above 120W ill recommend an 1825 over 1818. both are 50V chips but the 1825's efficiency gains at higher currents really start to pay the bills above 100W. also runs at lower voltage at a given wattage and can go farther on a given driver
it would be nice if meanwell would give us a driver with both onboard voltage adjustment AND external 3-way dimming (or programmable). why cant we have it all?
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Can't get excel to work on any of my computers, could I get some #'s ran?
CLU058-3618C4-353M2K1 @ 130 watts on a heat sink with a .225 C/W.
CLU058-3618C4-353M2K1 @ 130 watts on a heat sink with a .225 C/W.
In my case (looking for efficiency not under 50%)b version would be OK, since I am using 4 cob per driver (and maybe 7 when/if prices drop).now I should be between 58/60% efficiency and I have external dimming,that is crucial to me.
I am very proud of my creation and feature.
730 nm far red.
Every bar with single switch and dimmer.
So now I have put seeds under just 1 bar,dimmed to 100 watt at 10 inch.
Once vegetative go further,I will turn on other bar and dim up to full power
pop22
Well-Known Member
Three orders............... 1 LOST order, TWO delivered to the wrong place.......only deliver to my area on Fridays...... F them