Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
Okay, so it's a bitch with stranded wires, but does it work? Seriously short on a lot of things you guys take for granted, unfortunately.

Edit: is it possible to cut some of the strands off heavier gauge wire to fit ideal holder? Noob q, I assume, but since the juice clearly can flow through 18awg it seems intuitive that it could flow through the bottleneck.

Can't even find thermostat wire, but I don't really know how to google it since I don't know what it's supposed to do...
you can put a small dab of solder on the ends and it will go in the holder.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I built a mau5 V kit yesterday and it turned out great even for someone as mechanically hopeless as me. Only issue was I could only get 3mm thick angle locally and it was about a mm too thick to clear the sides of the centre heatsink. I used the included wire and just twisted it and used pliers to put it in the holder.

It came with a PF-P250CC-C140-S-DM driver which is 250w and is pulling 276w at the wall according to my cheap watt meter. Incredibly bright and looks like it will cover 1mx1m no problems and will be good to compare results to the mars pro epistar I just used.
that as pretty high efficiency for that driver. great going. peace
 

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
With the 140mm heatsinks and cxb3590s running at 1400mA, can I get away with mounting some far reds for that Emerson effect? It's on for just a little while. Hell, maybe even some uv if that exists. It's rated for 100w, so my layman's logic tells me it should work but... The reflectors might get in the way of the added light, but without having to get heatsinks for the monos it would be possible to put more in.

How would one go about remote driving these? Just use heavier gauge from the driver and a couple of wagos for the series? Like a dual wire cable to make it look real clean? Talking like 3 meters max for driver to bar... This way I can dim without entering the room and it's quite a bit less weight to hang.

Btw, has anyone ever built the frame of this out of wood with metal at the attachment point of the heatsinks? Seems kinda etchy, but the heatsinks doesn't get that hot do they? Really hard sourcing materials in the turd world :-(
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
With the 140mm heatsinks and cxb3590s running at 1400mA, can I get away with mounting some far reds for that Emerson effect? It's on for just a little while. Hell, maybe even some uv if that exists. It's rated for 100w, so my layman's logic tells me it should work but... The reflectors might get in the way of the added light, but without having to get heatsinks for the monos it would be possible to put more in.

How would one go about remote driving these? Just use heavier gauge from the driver and a couple of wagos for the series? Like a dual wire cable to make it look real clean? Talking like 3 meters max for driver to bar... This way I can dim without entering the room and it's quite a bit less weight to hang.

Btw, has anyone ever built the frame of this out of wood with metal at the attachment point of the heatsinks? Seems kinda etchy, but the heatsinks doesn't get that hot do they? Really hard sourcing materials in the turd world :-(
Growmau5 did a video on it ->
peace
Vegas
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
With the 140mm heatsinks and cxb3590s running at 1400mA, can I get away with mounting some far reds for that Emerson effect? It's on for just a little while. Hell, maybe even some uv if that exists. It's rated for 100w, so my layman's logic tells me it should work but... The reflectors might get in the way of the added light, but without having to get heatsinks for the monos it would be possible to put more in.

How would one go about remote driving these? Just use heavier gauge from the driver and a couple of wagos for the series? Like a dual wire cable to make it look real clean? Talking like 3 meters max for driver to bar... This way I can dim without entering the room and it's quite a bit less weight to hang.

Btw, has anyone ever built the frame of this out of wood with metal at the attachment point of the heatsinks? Seems kinda etchy, but the heatsinks doesn't get that hot do they? Really hard sourcing materials in the turd world :-(
I use security wire 18 gauge stranded for remote connections of leds. works fine. peace
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
With the 140mm heatsinks and cxb3590s running at 1400mA, can I get away with mounting some far reds for that Emerson effect? It's on for just a little while. Hell, maybe even some uv if that exists. It's rated for 100w, so my layman's logic tells me it should work but... The reflectors might get in the way of the added light, but without having to get heatsinks for the monos it would be possible to put more in.

How would one go about remote driving these? Just use heavier gauge from the driver and a couple of wagos for the series? Like a dual wire cable to make it look real clean? Talking like 3 meters max for driver to bar... This way I can dim without entering the room and it's quite a bit less weight to hang.

Btw, has anyone ever built the frame of this out of wood with metal at the attachment point of the heatsinks? Seems kinda etchy, but the heatsinks doesn't get that hot do they? Really hard sourcing materials in the turd world :-(
A guy did build one out of wood. here ->https://www.rollitup.org/t/a-different-approach-to-diy-cob.918924/#post-12897243
peace
 

goofy81

Well-Known Member
You are looking too deep into your electrical dude. You claim legally you can't go under 1.5mm2 but that's mainly anything ac mains in relation to the circuit breakers.
Also, legally in most countries, you're not even allowed to wire up your own electronics without a license anyway.
Just buy the kit, and use what it comes with because it's fine.
I don't know how much aluminium angle is in your country, but it's like 6-8 dollars for a 3 metre length here.
 

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
You are looking too deep into your electrical dude. You claim legally you can't go under 1.5mm2 but that's mainly anything ac mains in relation to the circuit breakers.
Also, legally in most countries, you're not even allowed to wire up your own electronics without a license anyway.
Just buy the kit, and use what it comes with because it's fine.
I don't know how much aluminium angle is in your country, but it's like 6-8 dollars for a 3 metre length here.
I tried to save a buck by picking the parts instead of the kits. Could be a lesson for other cheap bastards out there, lol. Got the electricity sorted for now thanks to some beautiful people. Now it's just teenage angst and a way too long weekend.
 

DeMoNeye

Well-Known Member
As with most UK growers, sourcing CREE quality grade lighting is a nightmare - we have to contend with huge postages costs that puts it outside of the reach of casual growers.

The two things that hit the pocket are the heatsinks (820g each) and the drivers (weighty!). Drivers can be sourced in the UK without much problem but passive PIN heatsinks are a nightmare to source.

Could the COB's be mounted to a large plate of aluminium that has been tapped to screw the COB mounts to? I've only got a small grow area (60cmx60cm - 23.5"x23.5") and want to run two COBS - could someone confirm the affective COB footprint?

If I bought a piece of aluminum plate, say 25mm (1") thick and 200mmx400mm (8"x16"), would this work as an effective heat sink - (approx £30 instead of approx £60 for a single pin heatsink)? I could even thermobond an aluminium heatsink profile to the top of the plate...
 
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AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5
@welight
Come Monday morning and I had an epiphany about what those angled profiles were used for, and thus knew were to look. Now I have the choice between 20mmx20mm, 30x30, or, less ideally, 37x37. The two smallest come in 200cm lengths, the largest in 133cm. They all seem pretty sturdy. So, they'll reach 40, 60 and 74mms respectively, into the 140mm heatsinks. What I wonder is, which would you choose? Obviously, it's a requirement that I can fit the Ideal as well.

Drivers are ready for pickup, the goodies from Cutter is scheduled for tomorrow and TME has shipped my order of necessities. If this helps me address the specific issues I'm trying to fix, I'll convert to Catholicism and pay some priest to pray for you lol. To all the people my never-ending nagging has bothered, I'll feel bad only if I can't make this work :bigjoint:
 

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
@welight
Just got my package, that was pretty quick. I originally reacted to the Au$50 handling fee, thinking it could keep a man working for a day. Seems like it did. Absolutely awesome.
And where I messed up and ordered the M3.5 12mm screws, they fixed it all by themselves to M4 10mm. I'm getting M4 both 6mm and 8mm in a backup order, so now I'm set. Thank you for a pleasant shopping experience lol.

And yes, I would definitely recommend you to my friends. If I could lol.

Cheers mate
 

welight

Well-Known Member
@welight
Just got my package, that was pretty quick. I originally reacted to the Au$50 handling fee, thinking it could keep a man working for a day. Seems like it did. Absolutely awesome.
And where I messed up and ordered the M3.5 12mm screws, they fixed it all by themselves to M4 10mm. I'm getting M4 both 6mm and 8mm in a backup order, so now I'm set. Thank you for a pleasant shopping experience lol.

And yes, I would definitely recommend you to my friends. If I could lol.

Cheers mate
Thanks Atta, glad we could make the experience as simple as possible
Good Luck with the build, post some piccys
Cheers
Mark
 

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
I've ordered a pot and resistor along with loads of other sundries from ebay today. Entire build is going to come in at about £300, plus framing material which I've already got.
I read £3000 and had to go reread your post lol. I'm about £1k into this lol. Jesus, I could have a pretty nice holiday for that and what I'm throwing after the veg light that's next.
 

HandyGringo

Well-Known Member
If I want to build a 2 cob setup with Growmau5 kits, how should I put them together? There's not an option for it. Should I buy 2x1cob without driver, and get a driver myself?
 

kiw

Active Member
@Growmau5
somewhat like half a year ago you guys discussed the efficiency of the differend bins and colours of the cxb3590.
just wanted to mention, that as far as I understand the data, the "lumen output" is dependend on the sensitivity of the eye. therefore I tried to paste it(found on wiki;orange line=daylight, blue=nighttime) into cree's spectral distribution chart. the max sensitivity is around 555nm, and only around 4.5% is left at 665nm.
sorry for the shitty quality.
I guess, there is actually more light emitted by the 3000k COBs than the bin charts states as the eye tends to be more sensitive on the blue side...lumens are for humans....
what do you think?

@welight
Is it possible for you guys to offer a kit in between 24 and 48 cobs? let's say with 32 or 36?
would be lovely!


Thank you guys for the good work! Keep it up!

greetings from the Oktoberfest in bavaria! ;)
 

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welight

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5
somewhat like half a year ago you guys discussed the efficiency of the differend bins and colours of the cxb3590.
just wanted to mention, that as far as I understand the data, the "lumen output" is dependend on the sensitivity of the eye. therefore I tried to paste it(found on wiki;orange line=daylight, blue=nighttime) into cree's spectral distribution chart. the max sensitivity is around 555nm, and only around 4.5% is left at 665nm.
sorry for the shitty quality.
I guess, there is actually more light emitted by the 3000k COBs than the bin charts states as the eye tends to be more sensitive on the blue side...lumens are for humans....
what do you think?

@welight
Is it possible for you guys to offer a kit in between 24 and 48 cobs? let's say with 32 or 36?
would be lovely!


Thank you guys for the good work! Keep it up!

greetings from the Oktoberfest in bavaria! ;)
could do a 1050ma 36up kit with 4 drivers ?
or 32 up 1400ma with 4 drivers?
Make sense
Cheers
Mark
 
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