diy version of low profile led propagation fixture for small area?
- Thread starter bri77
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- diy led bar propagation
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Nah this a cluttered build. Just have your driver's be remote. Luckiky, at 30 watts, an hlg 320-700-1050 will be able to run A BUNCH of those smaller veros. You honestly probably only need 2 or 3. The way that is buily, series wiring would be beautiful. Just get a riveted frim harbor freight, an electrician drill, and a pack of good drill bits the size you'll use to rivet and build that frame. Just get a couple new hack saw blades and angle aluminum cuts like butter. Dont let that intimidate you.
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Rahz
Well-Known Member
It was pretty straight forward once I had a plan, but the decision to go with a driver per cob was not a good one, cost and efficiency could have been better.
bri77
Well-Known Member
Im confused by amps/volts etc.
say I have this driver
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10008212/1734701
CURRENT OUTPUT 0.6±5% A
OUTPUT TYPE DC 21-40V
POWER CONSUMPTION 20 W
Does that mean I can hook 10 of these up and they'll take 2 watts each.
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XPE
Totally confused.
say I have this driver
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10008212/1734701
CURRENT OUTPUT 0.6±5% A
OUTPUT TYPE DC 21-40V
POWER CONSUMPTION 20 W
Does that mean I can hook 10 of these up and they'll take 2 watts each.
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XPE
Totally confused.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
It means 0.6 amps times whatever your (fv) is of the leds. Which is around 3 volts. So you'll get 1.6ish watts from each. You could run more like 13-14 on it
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
But max is 1amp on them. So you could get a 1000mA driver output current.
bri77
Well-Known Member
So the watts on the diver is just the max draw. You start your calculation from the amps on the driver, mulitply by led fv?
.6 amps * ~3.3 volts = ~2 watts.
When I look at the "Relative Flux vs. Current" graphs in the data sheet , it says I get 150% at .6. Thats 150% of what , is it the minimum values from binning tables?
Is there away to figureout the heat output at .6 verses the minimum .35 from the datasheet?
.6 amps * ~3.3 volts = ~2 watts.
When I look at the "Relative Flux vs. Current" graphs in the data sheet , it says I get 150% at .6. Thats 150% of what , is it the minimum values from binning tables?
Is there away to figureout the heat output at .6 verses the minimum .35 from the datasheet?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
To make it still a lil' bit more confuse...
XP-G3/S4 bin whites are far more efficient than these XP-E whites.
XP-E's are a good choise for momochromatic/coloured LED's.
You can hang 2 XP-E/photored strips from cutter in parallel to one of these 20w drivers to drive each stripe @ Ø220-270mA.
But remember, the most of these drivers work actually much lower.
You can only expect 460-540mA from such a 600mA driver.
I've tested more than a few of this china/ebay drivers and found out the following:
10w 300mA=real 250-270mA
20w 600mA=real 460-540mA
30w 900mA=real 740-810mA
They are also not very durable and will probably wear out quickly in a 18/6 cycle at least if you drive them at their voltage limits. I'ts a good idea to let at least 20% headroom in order to make it more durable!
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bri77
Well-Known Member
Samsung just released a new version of these strips I think.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/products/led-engine/ambient-light-engine
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201608/Data_Sheet_H_Series_GEN3_EU_Rev.1.2.pdf
JorgeGonzales
Well-Known Member
Yeah, these look great when you see 180+ lm/W, but that may be because they running at 5W instead of 11W with the same leds. It looks like they are built same LM561B+ leds they use in their latest strips, just at less current per LED.
When I suggested running at 350ma instead of 450ma that was the idea, to get a little more efficiency out of them.
bri77
Well-Known Member
Ah, I see, thanks Jorge.
OK so I've been following links and reading threads and i think I know enough to attempt a build.
Here's my thought process
I want about 60 watts of super effective light in a 3 x 1 space.
I go to cutter and find 12" strips with 15 xp-g3. The data sheet of the xpg3 says they pull ~2watts at 700 amps to give me 30 watts. 2 of these with a 6" gap in the middle will be perfect. Max amps is 2, so I'm assuming nice super hands are possible at .7.
Now I need a driver. Back to the data sheet to see I need 2.83 volts at .7 amp, so I need 15 * 2.83 * 2 = ~85v. to power 2 strips in series
My criteria for a driver is 7.amps , 60 wats and 85 volts.
I find this dimmable meanwell driver on mouser
http://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HVGC-65-700B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt5PRBMPTWcaVMM//lzUOtqsk4PQyAdYWVql/972xJp4w==
HVGC-65-700B
Output Current-Channel 1: 700 mA
Output Voltage-Channel 1: 9 V to 93 V
Output Power: 65.1 W
For a heatsink/frame I go to heatsinkusa and get 32 " x 3" piece. The strips are stuck to the heatsink using thermal paste and some of that special brown tape growmau5 demos in his tutorial. From here on its electrical lego. I hook up the two strips in series and the driver using wago connectors. Attach a plug and I'm done.
Is that a sensible way to approach a build?
OK so I've been following links and reading threads and i think I know enough to attempt a build.
Here's my thought process
I want about 60 watts of super effective light in a 3 x 1 space.
I go to cutter and find 12" strips with 15 xp-g3. The data sheet of the xpg3 says they pull ~2watts at 700 amps to give me 30 watts. 2 of these with a 6" gap in the middle will be perfect. Max amps is 2, so I'm assuming nice super hands are possible at .7.
Now I need a driver. Back to the data sheet to see I need 2.83 volts at .7 amp, so I need 15 * 2.83 * 2 = ~85v. to power 2 strips in series
My criteria for a driver is 7.amps , 60 wats and 85 volts.
I find this dimmable meanwell driver on mouser
http://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HVGC-65-700B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt5PRBMPTWcaVMM//lzUOtqsk4PQyAdYWVql/972xJp4w==
HVGC-65-700B
Output Current-Channel 1: 700 mA
Output Voltage-Channel 1: 9 V to 93 V
Output Power: 65.1 W
For a heatsink/frame I go to heatsinkusa and get 32 " x 3" piece. The strips are stuck to the heatsink using thermal paste and some of that special brown tape growmau5 demos in his tutorial. From here on its electrical lego. I hook up the two strips in series and the driver using wago connectors. Attach a plug and I'm done.
Is that a sensible way to approach a build?
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
each led is 2.83 volts .7amps or 700mA? . you could put 36 LEDs in series and ballast with an AC capacitor in series with HOT and rectify the output. 100uf to 200uF will do as long as it can handle 120vac minimum.
i mean you're about to do some heavy wiring already. why spend 120$ on a ballast when you can build one for 15$ out of 3 parts
i mean you're about to do some heavy wiring already. why spend 120$ on a ballast when you can build one for 15$ out of 3 parts
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
heatsink yea. ballasting no
bri77
Well-Known Member
This sounds great
"build one for 15$ out of 3 parts"
I dont totally understand all of this...
"ballast with an AC capacitor in series with HOT and rectify the output. 100uf to 200uF will do as long as it can handle 120vac minimum."
These are the bits I'm struggling with.
ballast with an AC capacitor in series
HOT
rectify the output
100uf to 200uF
120vac
mauricem00
Well-Known Member
looks like the samsung strip lights have a much higher efficiency than those fastech crees
iHearAll
Well-Known Member
i only drew in 3 leds but thats cuz im lazy and didnt want to draw 36ct.
got a multimeter? fuse your circuit with an AGC fast blo fuse rated for 700mA if those are the LEDs you want. buy two 100uf AC caps. not electrolytics obviously as those are for DC and what youre trying to do is use the reactance of a capacitor at 60hz to get a resistance that exhibits no heat.
test with one capacitor and measure the current on the dc side. if your satisfied with the forward current then stop and assemble it for its final state. if its dim then bump it too 200uf.
100uf will give you a steady 95v after being rectified and 200uf will give you a steady 101v after being rectified. they can pass a max of like 10amps if you wanted to add more strips of 36 leds over time but just put them in parallel with your other strip.
got a multimeter? fuse your circuit with an AGC fast blo fuse rated for 700mA if those are the LEDs you want. buy two 100uf AC caps. not electrolytics obviously as those are for DC and what youre trying to do is use the reactance of a capacitor at 60hz to get a resistance that exhibits no heat.
test with one capacitor and measure the current on the dc side. if your satisfied with the forward current then stop and assemble it for its final state. if its dim then bump it too 200uf.
100uf will give you a steady 95v after being rectified and 200uf will give you a steady 101v after being rectified. they can pass a max of like 10amps if you wanted to add more strips of 36 leds over time but just put them in parallel with your other strip.
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mauricem00
Well-Known Member
google transformerless power supplies and you will find all the information you need to build one of these simple drivers
mauricem00
Well-Known Member
I use them to power 12 volt fans and a experimental led side light I built. the formulas on google are pretty easy to understand