Thanks bro. That's a very reasonable price. I've spent several hours today reading up on COB and it's starting to click a little. At least I understand the components and watched a couple of awesome vids from @Growmau5 (thanks) and several others. I notice your name keeps popping up in my reading as well. Thanks all for sharing.HLG-320H-2800B $100
2x cobkits CLU058 iceled/cob/reflector combos $144 from cobkits.com
That's a 300W dimmable light, $244 for everything but aluminum angle, wire, 50 cent pot, equivalent to a 400W HPS.
It's not the most efficient, but compared to HPS it is.
thats cause Jorge is a card-carrying BadassI notice your name keeps popping up in my reading as well.
Jorge I would like your opinion (because your a bad ass) wanting to build a cob light first time small time grower 5x5 flower room try to run perpetual garden small 2 to 3 ft plants more worried about quality than quantity. I have a few cheap leds over 1000 watts total 300 mars hydro, couple ufos 180 watts, another 420 watt led full spectrum plus a 300 watt cfl flower bulb but i could do better these are cheap China made do you think the 300 cob kit is tyne right start for me to try? Anyone else chime in would like some feed back. I'll be moving into my new home soon. After all my final inspections first thing going in is walls venting sun tunnel new dedicated circuits to room. I just updated my whole electrical service inside and out i could run two homes off my panel. I want an efficient room keep the bills low grow some nice medicine for treating my tumor and my wife's seizures. Unless i can buy a quality light pre made for 3 bills don't think that is possiblethats cause Jorge is a card-carrying Badass
Grab a couple kits and do work.Jorge I would like your opinion (because your a bad ass) wanting to build a cob light first time small time grower 5x5 flower room try to run perpetual garden small 2 to 3 ft plants more worried about quality than quantity. I have a few cheap leds over 1000 watts total 300 mars hydro, couple ufos 180 watts, another 420 watt led full spectrum plus a 300 watt cfl flower bulb but i could do better these are cheap China made do you think the 300 cob kit is tyne right start for me to try? Anyone else chime in would like some feed back. I'll be moving into my new home soon. After all my final inspections first thing going in is walls venting sun tunnel new dedicated circuits to room. I just updated my whole electrical service inside and out i could run two homes off my panel. I want an efficient room keep the bills low grow some nice medicine for treating my tumor and my wife's seizures. Unless i can buy a quality light pre made for 3 bills don't think that is possible
Would love to but $$$ are tight I just bought a house cash and remodeled it from floor joist up all new beams floor joists all new electrical heating plumbing flooring changed walls doors I'm still not done $$$$ and a disabled wife and 3 beautiful kids whom are a bit spoiled my oldest boy 7 got me for a $60 back pack my coins are depleted in time I'll have a green house just small 10x10 but heat lights but that won't be this year may be 2 years all depends i won't do it unless i can do it rightGrab a couple kits and do work.
buy a DE HPSWould love to but $$$ are tight I just bought a house cash and remodeled it from floor joist up all new beams floor joists all new electrical heating plumbing flooring changed walls doors I'm still not done $$$$ and a disabled wife and 3 beautiful kids whom are a bit spoiled my oldest boy 7 got me for a $60 back pack my coins are depleted in time I'll have a green house just small 10x10 but heat lights but that won't be this year may be 2 years all depends i won't do it unless i can do it right
My goal is to build a single powerful COB. CHEAP! I have a heat sink and fan. I think I will just need a driver and the COB itself. I may want to use the COB holder options for ease in attaching the wires. But, I am thinking I could just use the thermal pads to attach the COB directly to the Heat Sink. I could then build my own reflector using existing attachment points on the casing of the heat sink. I would not have a problem drilling and tapping if I choose to use a holder/reflector.HLG-320H-2800B $100
2x cobkits CLU058 iceled/cob/reflector combos $144 from cobkits.com
That's a 300W dimmable light, $244 for everything but aluminum angle, wire, 50 cent pot, equivalent to a 400W HPS.
It's not the most efficient, but compared to HPS it is.
they make epoxy for that if youre planning on running your cob at high current like it sounds, you should know that its considered inferior to the non-permanent thermal pasteBut, I am thinking I could just use the thermal pads to attach the COB directly to the Heat Sink.
if youre using a single cob just use a $5 off the shelf reflector. they are computer engineered for better coverage than anything you could buildI could then build my own reflector using existing attachment points on the casing of the heat sink.
the A series doesnt take an external dimmer. its got a dimming pot for current right on it. some people with a lot of fixtures like external dimming, in your easily accessible single-cob micro grow it should be a good fit.MeanWell HLG-185H-48A Driver". Is it easy to add a potentiometer for dimming?
sure as long as your adding 1818s. while 1825s are also 50W nominal cobs they run on a slightly different current/voltage curve, best not to mix and matchI am thinking the Citizen 1818 looks like an efficient choice and if I ever decide to add more COB's it will work in parallel being the correct voltage.
$66 seems pretty cheap to me for this experiment. I do want it to work tho. What do you COB experts think?
bigger driver offers you nothing if youre running it at 150W... it just costs more.I love the ease you offer with light engines. I read all that. I am thinking tho. My $66 experiment is the way to go. I am thinking I can get 150w efficiently from my posted design with the bigger driver. Cheaper.
I'm so glad to have found this thread I'm just reading up trying to learn. Hard to learn until i get the materials in hand and start asking. I'll be getting something to build in the next 2 months after i complete my house. Going to stalk this site until then. CobKits i really like your style of business informative helpful honest your a cool cat. I can tell by the way you carry on a conversationbigger driver offers you nothing if youre running it at 150W... it just costs more.
as far as your 1818 on a CPU setup can you drill an tap your cooler to bolt the chip down? that would be better. or if youre just experimenting you can prob get away with thermal paste+kapton. the thermal paste is kind of sticky and suctions the chip on there, tape just basically keeps it in place so its not sliding around. thats all the light engines really offer over your cpu cooler is easy mounting. if you want to save money your options are:
-delete reflector and reflector adapter fromthe light engine, would save you $6 or $7
-delete the holder itself and mount the chip direct. will save you $3 more but you'll need to solder the chip
I meant for a guy choosing between a pre-drilled Mechatronix or his own heatsink he'll have to drill anyway. Silly way to save $16 when you are running at 150W a cob. That's the 1825s wheelhouse.it offers better mounting and reflector options but yeah on a raw efficiency basis 1825 and 1212 are the tops
Yeah, and 150W is far from overkill in that space. I guarantee the first grow would have more than $16 extra yield for the same cooling costs.yes you get 10-15% more light at 150W for $16 and a chip that will prob last longer
I was thinking I might expand and add another COB down the road. I really want the intensity of the higher wattage coming from the chip as well. Thanks for your patience. I am still learning.bigger driver offers you nothing if youre running it at 150W... it just costs more.
I can drill and tap the cpu cooler. Not a prob. I'll take the holder and the reflector as well. And the tape to secure the chip to the holder.as far as your 1818 on a CPU setup can you drill an tap your cooler to bolt the chip down? that would be better. or if youre just experimenting you can prob get away with thermal paste+kapton. the thermal paste is kind of sticky and suctions the chip on there, tape just basically keeps it in place so its not sliding around. thats all the light engines really offer over your cpu cooler is easy mounting. if you want to save money your options are:
-delete reflector and reflector adapter fromthe light engine, would save you $6 or $7
-delete the holder itself and mount the chip direct. will save you $3 more but you'll need to solder the chip
Perhaps I am not putting it together correctly. I was thinking the 1818 could be driven to giving me the intensity I am looking for. And would be more efficient driven than the 1825. I'm still learning. Thank you for your input.I think saving money with an 1818 instead of 1825 is silly.
That's what I want. More light.yes you get 10-15% more light at 150W for $16 and a chip that will prob last longer
So are you inferring I should get the 48v driver and the 1825 and that would give me more light versus the 1818? Sounds good.Yeah, and 150W is far from overkill in that space. I guarantee the first grow would have more than $16 extra yield for the same cooling costs.
Your comments are making me wonder if I should consider the 1212 and the less powerful 120H driver. That is much cheaper and if it will give me the intensity I would like. That may be the ticket and only be like $40. Yet that's a 1 off. Doesn't sound like it will offer enough wattage for expandability.when i get time ill build some various extreme setups (single 1825 and 3618 on a 240 or 320W driver vs say single 1212 on 120w. i mean those chips barely dip into the upper 30s in efficiency at the top end and are still de-hps-ish in efficiency