Can cold water temps kill your microherd?

[HeadyYonder]

As simple as the title suggests. My friend is wondering if she waters with 55-57 degree water to induce coloring the last week or week and a half of flower if it will hurt the microherd population. From what I understand it won't kill it, but slow it down rather in their feedings. Idk, I need to do some reading, but know a few of you on here would def know so thought I'd ask. She's running an all organic mix of course. Thanks in advance!

 

[calliandra]

As far as I know, microorganisms go dormant when conditions do not suit them. There are of course extreme temperatures that would actually kill them, but I don't know what they are and I suspect the danger from fungicides and pesticides is far larger
HTH!

 

[loftygoals]

Nah, they'll slow down but they won't die off completely.

Consider your fridge. Typically it's at 40F and the food you put in there lasts longer without spoiling because bacteria slow down... but eventually the food still spoils. It just takes longer because the bacteria were slowed by the cool temps. If you take the food out of the fridge and leave it around for a while you'll see food spoils much more quickly as the bacteria have sped up again.

 

[rikdabrick]

From what I've read from some well known agronomists, as long as there's food and your soil temperature is above 50F the microbes are doing their thang. Below 50F they go dormant. I haven't read, but would just guess they MAY be more active in warmer soil temps.

 

[iHearAll]

As simple as the title suggests. My friend is wondering if she waters with 55-57 degree water to induce coloring the last week or week and a half of flower if it will hurt the microherd population. From what I understand it won't kill it, but slow it down rather in their feedings. Idk, I need to do some reading, but know a few of you on here would def know so thought I'd ask. She's running an all organic mix of course. Thanks in advance!

You should add microbes weekly anyway

 

[DonTesla]

You should add microbes weekly anyway

No need if rocking the right sizes, and right type of soil, and rocking the wicked temps and watering regime, although I wouldn't mind giving it a shot I guess.

Side by side is my middle name

 

[DonTesla]

As simple as the title suggests. My friend is wondering if she waters with 55-57 degree water to induce coloring the last week or week and a half of flower if it will hurt the microherd population. From what I understand it won't kill it, but slow it down rather in their feedings. Idk, I need to do some reading, but know a few of you on here would def know so thought I'd ask. She's running an all organic mix of course. Thanks in advance!

12*C which is yourv55*F is quite cold and imo, is more than cold enough to cause shock and colour change in many strains, at least to the plant tissues
I know this cause I used to harvest with 14*C water, and watch the colour-magic really happen..

Now i add ice for the last 48 hours, then harvest, and this will for sure revert bene's back into cyst and spore form, but they do remain, just dormant.

It's important to note that growth for yield is dependant on the micros, but the doubling of your frost is not, its actually more dependant on their cease-of-action/near death.

That's what will kick start the fluid reallocation process and initiate the second jacket of trichs

Try it and thank grandpa jeans after!

 

[iHearAll]

No need if rocking the right sizes, and right type of soil, and rocking the wicked temps and watering regime, although I wouldn't mind giving it a shot I guess.

Side by side is my middle name

I give my entire garden probiotic foliar sprays weekly as well as top dress with bokashi every three weeks. If i stop spraying, PM appears on various plant types due to my hot and humid climate. I see it like using probiotics to keep my gut healthy. I wouldn't do it once or twice and assume i have immunities to infections and disease. It has to be regularly applied in various ways. It's more obvious when you are growing biodiversity to see various reactions to helping and not helping.

 

[HeadyYonder]

It's important to note that growth for yield is dependant on the micros, but the doubling of your frost is not, its actually more dependant on their cease-of-action/near death.

That's what will kick start the fluid reallocation process and initiate the second jacket of trichs

Try it and thank grandpa jeans after!

I kinda had that assumption as several of the older outdoor guys around here swear by not harvesting till the second frost. They've always said it produces more resin, and damn are some of those outdoor nugs gorgeous. In order to get the bennies and microherd back to full life should I tell her to just pull the rootball, disturbing as little as possible, topdress with compost/castings with some kelp meal an greensand then water with a aact?

 

[DonTesla]

I kinda had that assumption as several of the older outdoor guys around here swear by not harvesting till the second frost. They've always said it produces more resin, and damn are some of those outdoor nugs gorgeous. In order to get the bennies and microherd back to full life should I tell her to just pull the rootball, disturbing as little as possible, topdress with compost/castings with some kelp meal an greensand then water with a aact?

choose to shoot for yield or flavour or sheer nutty stupid retarded expansive frost.. One or the other should be the highest priority, k.

The problem with doing an AACT right now is that the extra molasses (nevermind castings) will cause a darker ash and end product, unfortunately.

Basically.. you risk quality hindrance if you shoot for more yield now, unless you want to run for another 2-3 weeks and cleanse the plants' water systems..

If trying to boost flavour I would do a heat stress to capture existing Brix/ vs adding more Brix / new sugars (ie a tea)

To my own surprise, I've gotten pure fire off of a plant that got the cold shoulder and dark corner during the last few weeks. The smallest yield yes but almost a hundred grams once cured of the highest frost content and expansion to match imaginable.

Depends how many people have to share the medicine of course, but the less you do now the better, ime.

You can always ice for 48, chop the tops once they double up in frost, then reinoculate with a half strength Basic AACT, and run your larf for 20 days and get yield and a clean burn .

Ice
Tops
Tea
2 weeks+ water only
Boom .. Harvest the whole root system n all

That's what I'd do

 

[HeadyYonder]

choose to shoot for yield or flavour or sheer nutty stupid retarded expansive frost.. One or the other should be the highest priority, k.

The problem with doing an AACT right now is that the extra molasses (nevermind castings) will cause a darker ash and end product, unfortunately.

Basically.. you risk quality hindrance if you shoot for more yield now, unless you want to run for another 2-3 weeks and cleanse the plants' water systems..

If trying to boost flavour I would do a heat stress to capture existing Brix/ vs adding more Brix / new sugars (ie a tea)

To my own surprise, I've gotten pure fire off of a plant that got the cold shoulder and dark corner during the last few weeks. The smallest yield yes but almost a hundred grams once cured of the highest frost content and expansion to match imaginable.

Depends how many people have to share the medicine of course, but the less you do now the better, ime.

You can always ice for 48, chop the tops once they double up in frost, then reinoculate with a half strength Basic AACT, and run your larf for 20 days and get yield and a clean burn .

Ice
Tops
Tea
2 weeks+ water only
Boom .. Harvest the whole root system n all

That's what I'd do

Right on, I'm gonna tell her to try that. When I said use an AACT, I meant only after the harvest, after the rootball is removed; just to get the micros boomin again before she reruns the soil

 

[DonTesla]

Right on, I'm gonna tell her to try that. When I said use an AACT, I meant only after the harvest, after the rootball is removed; just to get the micros boomin again before she reruns the soil

Very good advice then, dawg, my bad lol.