Uncle Ben's Topping Technique to Get 2 or 4 Main Colas
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
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Slab
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Above the,second node . I highly recommend you read the thread. uncle ben responded to that question no less than 50 times
VenomGrower6990
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Looks like it already has its pre-flowers? Showing pistols.
desertdog
Well-Known Member
Is this method only for seedlings?Howdy!
Based on quite a few questions about topping I've received here: https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/13820-fimming-topping-101-a-12.html I decided to reproduce a thread on my favorite topping method published at cann.com about 10 years ago. Even though I've got much better photos from many latter grows both indoor and outdoor, I'm gonna stick with the old photos from the original thread. Lighting is HPS from start to finish with the exception of using 4' long shop fluors from germ until about 2 weeks. Some pix were taken outdoors for better resolution thanks to an old camcorder I was using.
Selecting the point for topping to get 4 main colas -
To get 4 main colas, let your seedling or cutting (clone) grow to about 5-6 nodes and pinch out (cut) the stem just above the 2nd true node. The node where the cotyledons attach doesn't count. The result will be a redistribution of the auxins and other hormones that normally collect in the tissue of the terminal leader's tip. These ho moans will be redistributed to dormant buds that reside in the nodal axis where the leaf petiole attaches to the "trunk", below the cut. The new foliar output response will be quick (within 24 hrs., see photo below) if you have a healthy growing seedling and will be your future main colas - 4 instead of the usual 1:
Here's a photo of the same plant about 8 weeks into flowering. The plant is about 42" tall, has 4 main colas with an abundance of large, healthy fan leaves.
This is an indoor shot just prior to harvest showing the colas bulking up quite nicely. Notice how the weight of the heavy colas is naturally pulling them apart, which opens the plant up so that light can penetrate the interior of the canopy. This is the same principle used by fruit orchard managers who create an open vase profile for their trees in order to increase production. This profile also has a side benefit of providing good interior air movement which reduces fungal/rot pressures.
The plant after harvest showing the branching scaffold and dominant 4 main cola "trunks", opposing nodes one right above the other. Smaller secondary branches also provided good bud production. This plant yielded over 10 oz of cured bud.
~ Topping for 2 main colas ~
Pinch out the seedling above the 1st true node to get 2 main colas:
Any questions, fire away.
Happy gardening,
Uncle Ben
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Check out Phyton 35
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
.15 oz (1 tsp) preventative, .35 oz curative on the Phyton 35 or MagnaBon.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Hell no I wouldn't especially in lieu of having some nasty black streaks on world class avocado trees, most of them patented at one time. I suspect phomopsis twig blight. Recently sent off sticks for pathogen analysis to Tx A&M. It's OMRI listed for organic gardeners. Cu is a fertilizer too, will give some greening. I'm commercial and know of no other product that comes close to controlling these bacteria and fungi pathogens. BIG benefit is it's systemic as opposed to most copper sprays which are topical and preventative only.
Not sure of the rot that hits tight buds but if I had to guess would suspect black rot or botytris.
Alternaria Blight
Alternaria Leaf Spot
Angular Leaf Spot
Anthracnose
Apple Scab
Bacterial Blast
Bacterial Blight
Bacterial Canker
Bacterial Leaf Spot
Bacterial Speck
Bacterial Spot
Bacterial Stalk Rot
Bacterial Stem Canker
Ball Moss
Black Leaf Spot
Black Knot
Black Pitting
Black Pod
Black Rot
Blossom Blast
Blossom Brown Rot
Blotch
Blue Mold
Botryosphaeria Panicle
Botytris Blight
Brown Rot
Brown Spot
Cane Spot
Cherry Leaf Spot
Citrus Canker (suppression) Cercospora
Cercospora Early Blight
Cercospora Leaf Spot
Coffee Berry Disease
Collar Rot
Common Blight
Coryneum Blight (Shot Hole)
Crown Rot
Downy Mildew
Early Blight
Erwinia herbicola
European Canker
Fire Blight
Fruit Rot
Gray Leaf Mold
Greasy Spot
Gummy Stem Blight
Halo Blight
Helminthosporium Spot Blotch
Iron Spot
Kernel Rot
Late Blight
Leaf Blight
Leaf Rust
Leaf Scorch
Leaf Spot
Leptosphaerulina Leaf Spot
Melanose
Phoma Leaf Spot
Phompsis
Phomopsis Twig Blight
Phyophthora Blight
Pink Disease
Pink Pitting Pod Spot
Powdery Mildew
Pseudomonas Blight
Pseudomonas flourescens
Pseudomonas syringae
Purple Blotch
Raceme Blight
Red Algae
Red Leaf Spot
Rhizoctonia Foliage Blight
Rose Bloom
Scab
Septoria Leaf Blight
Septoria Leaf Blotch
Septoria Leaf Spot
Septoria Late Blight
Shoot Blast
Shoot Blight
Shuck Rot
Sigatoka (Black and Yellow)
Spanish Moss
Stem Blight
Tip Blight
Walnut Blight
Watermelon Bacterial Fruit Blotch (suppression)
White Rust
Yellow Rust
Zonate Leaf Spot
http://www.magnabon.com/diseases-combated
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Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Use an acid
papajohn
Well-Known Member
Brought me a 85%phosphoric acid,what's the dosage per gal? Maybe 1/4 tsp
Uncle Ben
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Add, test. Use a pH meter and find out.
SamsonsRiddle
Well-Known Member
lol uncle ben, can you water my plants for me?
papajohn
Well-Known Member
Thanks
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
No fair making fun. This IS an Advanced forum ya know.
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