LEC - Light-Emitting Ceramic

PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
dbkick said:
The socket is standard pgzx18 I believe it was referred too. Do you want me to post a link to dudes warehouse post?
I think maybe he doesn't even really know what he's doing is not right or maybe the t9 is open rated I dunno. I don't think so though.
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he's using these: t9 are NOT open rated, unless philips is hiding info( no O) again..........lol

http://www.endomaxx.com/products/endomaxx-315H-marijuana-grow-lights nowhere does it state t9 or t12, terrible reflector, all these philips cmh bulbs are designed for vertical use, best tested reflector here:

http://growershouse.com/cycloptics-greenbeams-315w-ceramic-mh-hobbyist-120-240v-fixture pricey though, even sunlightsupply or hydrofarm copies will do better than endo's stuff

dbkick said:
The lamp...
http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/lamps/high-intensity-discharge-lamps/ceramic-metal-halide/mastercolor-cdm-t-elite-med-wattage/928601164802_NA/product
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can't be T9, he must be wrong, discussion here:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=299165&page=81 rives knows his shit,IDK why i cant remember their 2 different sleeves on the mastercolor............guess hid isn't on my mind anymore:)

if it's actually a t9 in an open fixture, then it's a problem and we should keep our mouths shut
 
dbkick

dbkick

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO. said:
he's using these: t9 are NOT open rated, unless philips is hiding info( no O) again..........lol

http://www.endomaxx.com/products/endomaxx-315H-marijuana-grow-lights nowhere does it state t9 or t12, terrible reflector, all these philips cmh bulbs are designed for vertical use, best tested reflector here:

http://growershouse.com/cycloptics-greenbeams-315w-ceramic-mh-hobbyist-120-240v-fixture pricey though, even sunlightsupply or hydrofarm copies will do better than endo's stuff



can't be T9, he must be wrong, discussion here:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=299165&page=81 rives knows his shit,IDK why i cant remember their 2 different sleeves on the mastercolor............guess hid isn't on my mind anymore:)

if it's actually a t9 in an open fixture, then it's a problem and we should keep our mouths shut
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Would be pretty pricey to change out 500+ lamps with higher priced O rated ones.
 
dbkick

dbkick

Well-Known Member
Truthfully though if youre going to take this kind of challenge you should know wtf you're doing.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
dbkick said:
I've got a allstart 860 I'm about to put in a luxor hood and platinum hortilux ballast, I'm gonna run it closed for awhile. I'm not even sure that the 860 is protected but at that wattage I wouldn't know how it could be.
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Look carefully at it; the ceramic pit in the middle is inside a quartz cylinder wrapped with wire. All that is inside the outer envelope. When the pit goes, the quartz shield handles the impact and the wire contains it. The outer envelope remains unbroken. It's happened to me a few times. Frankly, all those fuckin' layers are not doing the efficiency level of the lamp any favors at all.
 
BiG PuFFer

BiG PuFFer

Well-Known Member
THCbreeder said:
How is that you have 2 315s on each side of the hood . I would assume ( remind you I am stupid to technical lighting info ) it would be easy to cover a 4x4 with decent coverage . Who has a legit par video or spreadsheet on these 630"s I'm tired of Mumbo jumbo ? I'm not bashing anyone sorry for frustration . I just want the sun system 630 under a 4x4 with par readings at 16-18-24 inches . Or close to that ... Damnnn whose got the info
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4x4 grid 24 inches away. I really think these readings are low though.
 

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THCbreeder

THCbreeder

Well-Known Member
BiG PuFFer said:
4x4 grid 24 inches away. I really think these readings are low though.
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I just want someone with the 630 unit to get the number right . We know what a 315 does . Time to take the sun systems hood and 630w and do a legit test in a 4x4 area . No one has these units so I guess we"ll be waiting a while why the industry catches up
 
BiG PuFFer

BiG PuFFer

Well-Known Member
THCbreeder said:
That must be from a 315w I'm suspecting . Not a 630 ! That's my guess !!!
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I let the dude at the shop do the test with my light it was the first to come in. Its the 630 but i think the reading is off too. Hey the cob lights and led are great. Im running a 300w led in my other tent. I hear lots of good things about the LEC and it was hundreds cheeper then cob based lights. So I'll guess we'll find out.
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
GroErr said:
Here's the difference between the closed vs. open fixture bulbs. I had ordered some replacements recently and they shipped me the wrong bulbs (bottom). T9, single jacket, Mastercolour not an Elite Agro/GreenPower.

View attachment 3611688
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Aaaaaaaaaaaaaah it's got a metal lining on the base vs plastic for the enclosed bulb

http://www.endomaxx.com/products/endomaxx-315H-marijuana-grow-lights if you look in the pics it's definitely a t12(open fixture) bulb, so the grow OP is fine.............the guy is just misinformed.

Now if endomaxx 's socket accepts and can fire a T9! oh boy.............doubt it (ul listed)

thanks for the pics
 
G

grouch

Well-Known Member
CaliWorthington said:
Or, I have this crazy idea to put COBs inside an air cooled HID reflector. COBs on round heatsinks, mounted on bars inside the hood. It could be done. Would be cool. Talk me out of this or I might start ordering parts.
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You could build an air cooled enclosure over the heatsink of the cobs to remove the heat without covering the actual cob with glass.
 
CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
grouch said:
You could build an air cooled enclosure over the heatsink of the cobs to remove the heat without covering the actual cob with glass.
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I could, but that is probably beyond my skill level. Great idea though. Maybe it will evolve into that.

My thoughts so far... I guess the Meanwell driver would be mounted on top of the reflector. I wonder if I could get a mogul base welded onto one end of a metal bar? Screw metal bar into existing mogul socket, then attach round COB/heatsinks to bar. The reflectors I've got are about 20" long, so could probably fit 3 COBs in a line. Longer hoods could hold 4. If there were crossbars you could spread COBs out to the sides and corners. Crossbars would have to attached after the main bar is screwed in, obviously. The COB reflecting angle is 115 degrees I believe. I'm not sure you would get much reflection from inside the hood, but at least it provides a vehicle to air cool the entire COB assembly.

I may buy the CMH kits anyway, since this idea is probably inherently flawed. I'm sure it wouldn't be as good something designed from the ground up like grouch suggested. But I bet it might work OK, maybe enough to be usable.
 
CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
Just got an idea for grouch's suggestion. Replace the reflector glass with a sheet of reflective aluminum and cut holes for the COBs to pop out. I suppose this would be much better, and could allow for use of individual COB reflectors too. This would also do away with the bar, just mount everything on the metal sheet.
 
G

grouch

Well-Known Member
CaliWorthington said:
Just got an idea for grouch's suggestion. Replace the reflector glass with a sheet of reflective aluminum and cut holes for the COBs to pop out. I suppose this would be much better, and could allow for use of individual COB reflectors too. This would also do away with the bar, just mount everything on the metal sheet.
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Just order your heatsink to fit your reflector opening and seal the edges with aluminum tape. Make sure to leave room for the fins but dont be afraid to bend/cut to make it fit. Should be simple if your order from heatsinkUSA as they have multiple profiles and will cut to your measurement.
 
CaliWorthington

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
grouch said:
Just order your heatsink to fit your reflector opening and seal the edges with aluminum tape. Make sure to leave room for the fins but dont be afraid to bend/cut to make it fit. Should be simple if your order from heatsinkUSA as they have multiple profiles and will cut to your measurement.
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I thought of that, but seems like it might be really heavy to have a 20"x 20" heatsink. Individual ones would be lighter. Your way might end up being better though, we'll see.
 
dbkick

dbkick

Well-Known Member
CaliWorthington said:
Just got an idea for grouch's suggestion. Replace the reflector glass with a sheet of reflective aluminum and cut holes for the COBs to pop out. I suppose this would be much better, and could allow for use of individual COB reflectors too. This would also do away with the bar, just mount everything on the metal sheet.
Click to expand...
No need to cut holes for cobs(I thought about this awhile back and realized cutting holes for the cobs was unneeded ), just make it a fairly heavy gauge aluminum and paste and screw the heatsinks on the inside of the hood to the aluminum where the cobs are positioned. Then mount the cobs to the aluminum plate. Seems easier than cutting holes in aluminum, especially if it's a heavy gauge.
 
BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
dbkick said:
No need to cut holes for cobs(I thought about this awhile back and realized cutting holes for the cobs was unneeded ), just make it a fairly heavy gauge aluminum and paste and screw the heatsinks on the inside of the hood to the aluminum where the cobs are positioned. Then mount the cobs to the aluminum plate. Seems easier than cutting holes in aluminum, especially if it's a heavy gauge.
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why would you do this as opposed to cobs outside the fixture pointing directly down

your method is not only fucking up your CDM coverage, its casting off your cobs at random angles to the canopy

lose/lose
 
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