Tasty led

predd

predd

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking of upgrading my rapid led onynx bloom and rw 75 in my tent, I have a 20"x36" surface area to cover and I seen bmag's post on the production cob fixture companies, I like the looks of the tasty led fixtures, but really have no feedback on them, I was wondering if anyone has tried them or if someone on this forum owns that company? The length if the fixture looks right and good parts, made in the U.S.A also I think, any input would be greatly appreciated, also the price point seems reasonable!
 
B

benbud89

Well-Known Member
Yes, he really is a nice guy. If I didnt have such hassle importing things, I would likely have bought lights from him. I have no doubt that he will answer any questions, that you may have. Talk to him, he will get you the best option for your space.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
A Tasty LED thread!

The website will have more information available in the next week but I'll be glad to provide specifics here. I have a batch of CXB lamps that should be ready on or before next weekend. In the CXB categories I'm hoping to focus on the 1750 but demand may end up pushing me towards 2100. I hope there will be some interest in the 1400 series but am unsure whether the demand will be there for it.

Here are some suggestions in a 20" x 36" space:

1 T2-1400 about 550 PPFD
1 T2-1750 would be about 650 PPFD
1 T2-2100 would be around 760 PPFD

1 T3-1400 about 820 PPFD
1 T3-1750 would be just under 1000 PPFD
1 T3-2100 would be around 1150 PPFD

1 V4-200 about 885 PPFD

Options :D

The T2 is a bit short for that space but would work.
Total emitter spread on the T2 is 12", T3 and V4 is 24".

No real world data yet but I have 2 lamps reserved (my first sale!) and several people emailing me asking for prices specs and availability. A week ago I was hoping to just sell something. Now I'm thinking the initial CXB batch will be gone quickly and I'll be left waiting on components again. The coming batch will be all 1750 except for a couple T1-2100s. Minus the two that are spoken for I'll have 6-8 lamps in the 1750 series available depending on which models I end up building. The pricing scheme is primarily based on $5 per par watt in the 1750 category, 2100s being slightly less and 1400s being a bit more. There currently is no T4-2100 planned as it would require two drivers and makes reasonable pricing difficult though I am looking at some options that wouldn't compromise quality. I also won't be stocking T1-1400 at all or expecting requests for it to be fulfilled as the price per par watt would be $7.

Anyway, the lead time on the 2100 series can be as short as 2 weeks but no promises. Driver availability is sketchy at the moment, could be as much as 3-4 weeks. I can have a better idea of time frame on Monday. Feel free to correspond with me by email. The 1400 series could be stocked quickly on request. I can have non stocked 1400s available in as little as a week.

There may be a V3-240 in the near future with very nice price per par watt, though obviously the efficiency can't compete with the CXBs.
 
predd

predd

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
A Tasty LED thread!

The website will have more information available in the next week but I'll be glad to provide specifics here. I have a batch of CXB lamps that should be ready on or before next weekend. In the CXB categories I'm hoping to focus on the 1750 but demand may end up pushing me towards 2100. I hope there will be some interest in the 1400 series but am unsure whether the demand will be there for it.

Here are some suggestions in a 20" x 36" space:

1 T2-1400 about 550 PPFD
1 T2-1750 would be about 650 PPFD
1 T2-2100 would be around 760 PPFD

1 T3-1400 about 820 PPFD
1 T3-1750 would be just under 1000 PPFD
1 T3-2100 would be around 1150 PPFD

1 V4-200 about 885 PPFD

Options :D

The T2 is a bit short for that space but would work.
Total emitter spread on the T2 is 12", T3 and V4 is 24".

No real world data yet but I have 2 lamps reserved (my first sale!) and several people emailing me asking for prices specs and availability. A week ago I was hoping to just sell something. Now I'm thinking the initial CXB batch will be gone quickly and I'll be left waiting on components again. The coming batch will be all 1750 except for a couple T1-2100s. Minus the two that are spoken for I'll have 6-8 lamps in the 1750 series available depending on which models I end up building. The pricing scheme is primarily based on $5 per par watt in the 1750 category, 2100s being slightly less and 1400s being a bit more. There currently is no T4-2100 planned as it would require two drivers and makes reasonable pricing difficult though I am looking at some options that wouldn't compromise quality. I also won't be stocking T1-1400 at all or expecting requests for it to be fulfilled as the price per par watt would be $7.

Anyway, the lead time on the 2100 series can be as short as 2 weeks but no promises. Driver availability is sketchy at the moment, could be as much as 3-4 weeks. I can have a better idea of time frame on Monday. Feel free to correspond with me by email. The 1400 series could be stocked quickly on request. I can have non stocked 1400s available in as little as a week.

There may be a V3-240 in the near future with very nice price per par watt, though obviously the efficiency can't compete with the CXBs.
Click to expand...

Thank you everyone for the fast replies, LOVE this site! I was looking at the v4 as the length of that fixture should be right, I will be contacting you probably this coming week and look forward to doing business with you, I feel better that you are an active member on this site also. Do you have the V4 in stock?
 
T

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
@Rahz

I`ve done some 100w cob units before, I have had waiting for a while some 300w cob chips, heatsinks and drivers

Is there much difference when wattage starts getting higher ? I mean obviously I got much bigger heatsinks

If I was ordering them now I probably could have got 600w cobs for the same price but that`s getting towards overkill but I would like a 1000w single cob unit one day maybe 50 to 100% dimmable, I`m guessing light burn maybe an issue if they get too close.. lol

I`m thinking 2 to 4 of them in an aircooled hood to see if I can replace a 1000w hps in a cool tube and get the same or more yield
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
predd said:
Thank you everyone for the fast replies, LOVE this site! I was looking at the v4 as the length of that fixture should be right, I will be contacting you probably this coming week and look forward to doing business with you, I feel better that you are an active member on this site also. Do you have the V4 in stock?
Click to expand...
I do have a couple V4-200s in stock and can produce a couple more if needed.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Honestly I've never driven a cob over 80 watts. Nothing beats under driving CXB in efficiency at this point so that's where I focus but cob tech seems to be advancing quickly so there's no telling what the future might bring. While I consider 1000w cobs to be something a commercial grower would primarily be interested in, if the efficiency and price are there it will make it's way to the DIY crowd and we'll see real world examples of cooling them. Aluminum spreads heat quickly so it's just a matter of having proper weight and surface area with plenty of airflow. Heat pipes and radiator style cooling could be useful cost/weight reducers and air cooled hoods could easily become a common solution.

OTOH, as efficiency goes up cooling requirements goes down.

THE KONASSURE said:
@Rahz

I`ve done some 100w cob units before, I have had waiting for a while some 300w cob chips, heatsinks and drivers

Is there much difference when wattage starts getting higher ? I mean obviously I got much bigger heatsinks

If I was ordering them now I probably could have got 600w cobs for the same price but that`s getting towards overkill but I would like a 1000w single cob unit one day maybe 50 to 100% dimmable, I`m guessing light burn maybe an issue if they get too close.. lol

I`m thinking 2 to 4 of them in an aircooled hood to see if I can replace a 1000w hps in a cool tube and get the same or more yield
Click to expand...
 
T

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
Honestly I've never driven a cob over 80 watts. Nothing beats under driving CXB in efficiency at this point so that's where I focus but cob tech seems to be advancing quickly so there's no telling what the future might bring. While I consider 1000w cobs to be something a commercial grower would primarily be interested in, if the efficiency and price are there it will make it's way to the DIY crowd and we'll see real world examples of cooling them. Aluminum spreads heat quickly so it's just a matter of having proper weight and surface area with plenty of airflow. Heat pipes and radiator style cooling could be useful cost/weight reducers and air cooled hoods could easily become a common solution.

OTOH, as efficiency goes up cooling requirements goes down.
Click to expand...

Just sounds a lot easier to me to have 1 cob chip instead of 3 or 4 or 10 but yeah I see why you like to under drive a cxb

I`m guessing the "300w" drivers I have will be consumption so should give between 200w and 280w to the cobs, I think they have a bit of adjustment in them

I`ve got 2 x 5000k`s and 2 x 3000k`s, Think I`ll set the drivers for the 5000k`s to full power and the 3000k`s half way to max, it`s only a 10 or 20% adjuster

Was quite funny actually I was speaking to a company in china looking for some large budget cob`s, maybe a year ago now over 6 months ago for sure, they gave me some price on the chips they made in china, there were too expensive

So then they say "Oh well we can get these chips from canada and ship them to you cheaper"

Who would have thought some places in china get budget 300w cobs from Canada ?

I`m half expecting them not to fire up, will I blame the budget drivers I got or the Canadian cobs when the don`t work ? place your bets.... lol
 
predd

predd

Well-Known Member
So I pulled the trigger on the v4, I spoke with a gentleman on the phone from juicyled on friday, he was very helpful with me. I made the purchase through the site and it shipped out that day with tracking and arrived today!!, the fixture looks great and is very bright. I shall give a review in 4-5 weeks on the light, but the test will be next round when I put it up against a rw75 and onyx bloom in the same size space.....so far so good.
 
PicklesRus

PicklesRus

Well-Known Member
Hi rahz. I have a question about the lights. The only difference between the different t2s are the current they are driven at right?

You've also wired a veg switch to drop the current correct?

So in a sense, if you wired a dimmer potentiometer instead of a switch, the 2100 could run at the same efficiencies and outputs as the 1700 or 1400 right? Or am I still noob and don't understand?

If that's the case, the 2100 seems like a good idea to start with and as you scale up then run them at a lower current for better efficiency. Right?
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
PicklesRus said:
Hi rahz. I have a question about the lights. The only difference between the different t2s are the current they are driven at right?

You've also wired a veg switch to drop the current correct?

So in a sense, if you wired a dimmer potentiometer instead of a switch, the 2100 could run at the same efficiencies and outputs as the 1700 or 1400 right? Or am I still noob and don't understand?

If that's the case, the 2100 seems like a good idea to start with and as you scale up then run them at a lower current for better efficiency. Right?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I never saw this question for some reason. Yes, you are right. The T2-2100 could run at the same efficiencies as the other T2s by lowering the current. The only issue with scaling up is that it's more expensive by the watt to produce the smaller lamps. More economical to start with a larger lamp and then drop the current. The lowest current with the switch would be .84 amps from a 1400, with the 2100 producing 1.26 amps at 60%.

It would be an expensive way to go about a low current option, more driver, sinks material, fan power than necessary. I've been toying around with low current options, nothing serious yet but I do have an interest. I noticed same as Greengenes that the Mega sinks at cutter aren't made for the 3590. There are similar radial options available on ebay that would work... would be nice if I could figure out where they're manufactured but no luck so far.
 
PicklesRus

PicklesRus

Well-Known Member
Rahz said:
Sorry, I never saw this question for some reason. Yes, you are right. The T2-2100 could run at the same efficiencies as the other T2s by lowering the current. The only issue with scaling up is that it's more expensive by the watt to produce the smaller lamps. More economical to start with a larger lamp and then drop the current. The lowest current with the switch would be .84 amps from a 1400, with the 2100 producing 1.26 amps at 60%.

It would be an expensive way to go about a low current option, more driver, sinks material, fan power than necessary. I've been toying around with low current options, nothing serious yet but I do have an interest. I noticed same as Greengenes that the Mega sinks at cutter aren't made for the 3590. There are similar radial options available on ebay that would work... would be nice if I could figure out where they're manufactured but no luck so far.
Click to expand...
Have you checked alibabba, there's a lot of heatsinks there
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
I have looked around a couple times, but I should give it some more effort. I like the ones on ebay but they're so rough cut they are un-usable without being lapped.
 
Timboy5

Timboy5

Well-Known Member
Hello predd I own 1 tasty LED (T4-1750 ) and have another on the way. The lights are absolutely amazing for the price and research behind them. The owner has been super super helpful on these forums/emails and he truly is a wealth of knowledge.

I own 10 cheapo LEDs from Mars. They work great for veg but flowering is a joke there is no penetration. For flowering you want chip on board LEDs like the ones Rahz puts out.

When my second light gets here I will get a 5x5 area going and hopefully post some pics. But if youre in the market for an LED then seriously look no further. There are a ton of LED frauds out there who pad numbers and lie about what they sell its a very shady area of the market
 
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