...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
What's driving me nuts is that I'm not seeing the numbers that I'd like to see given the fact that the efficiency for the CXB3590 3500 (CD) on paper is anywhere between 7~12% more than the Vero 29 4000K at currents of 400~2400mA but yet when measured with an Apogee 120 PAR sensor, the results are similar, if not more favorable for the latter cob. Also the CXB3590 is nearly 30$ more than the Vero 29, so I'm trying like hell to locate any errors on my part, as well as question established factors from other parties. Do I have my doubts about the Apogee 120 PAR meter even though I and others here have very reliable wavelength correction factors? Yes I do. Do I question the results of my tests? You bet I do. I'm now bringing this matter to the attention of others who are known for their expertise in this field of study and I look forward to reaching a final conclusion before long with their camaraderie.

I could be like other individuals and entities and assume the datasheets are the holy gospel and forgo any in-depth testing, further progressing my financial agenda. Plenty of LED fixture companies have done that in the past and still continue today to do so, thus misleading their customers and ultimately short handing them. Don't believe me? Take the guy two comments above this one for example. Ask him how hot the case temperature of his cobs are at various currents for his product; it plays a considerable role in how these cobs perform. The difference between them and me is that I want to know exactly what I'm offering regarding my products and not simply exaggerate in order to avoid any technical effort and/or costs. Furthermore, I love performing these test and analysis procedures, as it's basically what I did in college for +2 years and I'd say it's sort of an addiction, much like those who love building their DIY lighting fixtures.
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On the other, every single undamaged Cree LED I've heard of being professionally tested (in an IS) performed above minimal specs.
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
@AquariusPanta
Keep trying...
My chips run at 39C at 24-25c ambient and 46C in 32 ambient...in their encloses with holders and reflectors on at 1400ma.
Do you seriously think you're the first one to get and use an thermocoupler? Or that you are somehow ahead of me in anyway? It is the basics, and how all companies, cob or not, tell you to measure Ts temps of chips(ya...I have tested and used more than cobs). Glad you've taken one step up.

Why compare 3500k to 3500k and 4k to 4k? or 3k to 3k?...I have lead you to the water many times already...you can get there again on your own. You can compare whatever to whatever when you have everything to choose from. That is a choice of a grower(which you're not) to make on what they want to use. But to to try and make a definitive statement or even an argument based on someone missing if a clear flaw.
It has nothing to do with who or what chips. It would be the same flaw the other way around. It is that there is missing info of equal status to the cited and used cob.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Eraserhead said:
"engineer"....

I have 5 years worth of this gobbly gook on my Skype.

I may or may not have the hook-up on case-only manufacturing, for cheap.

Probably not, nevermind....
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I've been searching like crazy for a way to get a hold of case housings. Will you PM me some details?
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Greengenes707 said:
@AquariusPanta
Keep trying...
My chips run at 39C at 24-25c ambient and 46C in 32 ambient...in their encloses with holders and reflectors on at 1400ma.
Do you seriously think you're the first one to get and use an thermocoupler? Or that you are somehow ahead of me in anyway? It is the basics, and how all companies, cob or not, tell you to measure Ts temps of chips(ya...I have tested and used more than cobs). Glad you've taken one step up.

Why compare 3500k to 3500k and 4k to 4k? or 3k to 3k?...I have lead you to the water many times already...you can get there again on your own. You can compare whatever to whatever when you have everything to choose from. That is a choice of a grower(which you're not) to make on what they want to use. But to to try and make a definitive statement or even an argument based on someone missing if a clear flaw.
It has nothing to do with who or what chips. It would be the same flaw the other way around. It is that there is missing info of equal status to the cited and used cob.
Click to expand...
Your chips are dimmable, right? Have you considered measuring temperatures at lower or higher, if applicable, currents? I'm happier now to see that you've indeed measured some temperatures and so forth. Were those readings taken after brief or prolonged durations of operation? Why not include that on product description? Those are great temperatures by the way, just goes to show how running cobs at certain levels impacts their Tc.

I'm not asking to be led or for you to teach me but rather why you believe someone shouldn't compare 3000K to 3500K. Let me ask you in a different manner. Should any of us here even bother comparing 3000K to 3000K with an Apogee PAR meter/sensor, new or old, and if so, why should we?
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Greengenes707 said:
@AquariusPanta
Keep trying...
My chips run at 39C at 24-25c ambient and 46C in 32 ambient...in their encloses with holders and reflectors on at 1400ma.
Do you seriously think you're the first one to get and use an thermocoupler? Or that you are somehow ahead of me in anyway? It is the basics, and how all companies, cob or not, tell you to measure Ts temps of chips(ya...I have tested and used more than cobs). Glad you've taken one step up.

Why compare 3500k to 3500k and 4k to 4k? or 3k to 3k?...I have lead you to the water many times already...you can get there again on your own. You can compare whatever to whatever when you have everything to choose from. That is a choice of a grower(which you're not) to make on what they want to use. But to to try and make a definitive statement or even an argument based on someone missing if a clear flaw.
It has nothing to do with who or what chips. It would be the same flaw the other way around. It is that there is missing info of equal status to the cited and used cob.
Click to expand...
Wow ! Those are what call great figures !
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
You did a fine job takin' care of the cooling ,brother ...
My V series Tetras ( 4 x Vero 29 @ 1650mA ) with a Ta=32°C ,each COB has about Tc= 49-50 °C
and @ Ta=25°C then Tc= 44-45 °C ....
(K-thermocouple used )
Click to expand...

Reall fuckin' great job ,indeed ...:hump:

Cheers.
:peace:
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
@stardustsailor

What's the word on the ole V series Tetras these days? How have they worked out for you?
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For the purpose they are intended ,yeah,they work pretty dam' good !
I've not even one single owner of my lights ,with a slightest complain ...
Afterall ,that's all the fuss done for ...
For the ultimate feeling of being awarded for your creation ,your idea ...
Money can't buy that ...
 
Jack Reacher

Jack Reacher

Active Member
This is the most fun I've had since starting to grow. Reading about COB's is a gas. I've been using CFLs to get started. Now I want to get serious. I have an area 27" wide x 18" deep x 54" tall to grow in. I am thinking of going to autoflowers due to the height restrictions and the cold temps in the winter. This winter has been mild- lows of -3F so far. I live at 5000' feet in Eastern Oregon, short growing season for outside. Anyway I want to build my own grow light, thinking Vero 18's, 4000K, one driver, lower current to keep temps down. Maybe one driver for veg and another to turn on (adding light ) when flowering. I have access to free desktop computers- getting power supplies, heatsinks and fans which I have incorporated into my CFL grow. I used to build desktops for fun so I'm familiar with some of this stuff. I was a remodel contractor so I've played with residential electricity. I know I can do this with a little guidance.

I want to build a light for veg and flower both. Thinking veg parts first, then add flower parts in a month.

I also have a 3'x3' closet with a slope ceiling that I intend to make into another grow area. 54" max height again. So thinking of a similar light for there down the road. I want to get a perpetual grow going. 2 plants a month or so.

What do you experts recommend? Yes $ is important but I'd like to start small and add to as I go.
Thanks for your advise and all the info in this thread. Amazing. Glad I didn't buy anything prebuilt!!
 
needsomebeans

needsomebeans

Well-Known Member
Jack Reacher said:
This is the most fun I've had since starting to grow. Reading about COB's is a gas. I've been using CFLs to get started. Now I want to get serious. I have an area 27" wide x 18" deep x 54" tall to grow in. I am thinking of going to autoflowers due to the height restrictions and the cold temps in the winter. This winter has been mild- lows of -3F so far. I live at 5000' feet in Eastern Oregon, short growing season for outside. Anyway I want to build my own grow light, thinking Vero 18's, 4000K, one driver, lower current to keep temps down. Maybe one driver for veg and another to turn on (adding light ) when flowering. I have access to free desktop computers- getting power supplies, heatsinks and fans which I have incorporated into my CFL grow. I used to build desktops for fun so I'm familiar with some of this stuff. I was a remodel contractor so I've played with residential electricity. I know I can do this with a little guidance.

I want to build a light for veg and flower both. Thinking veg parts first, then add flower parts in a month.

I also have a 3'x3' closet with a slope ceiling that I intend to make into another grow area. 54" max height again. So thinking of a similar light for there down the road. I want to get a perpetual grow going. 2 plants a month or so.

What do you experts recommend? Yes $ is important but I'd like to start small and add to as I go.
Thanks for your advise and all the info in this thread. Amazing. Glad I didn't buy anything prebuilt!!
Click to expand...
I made the mistake of buying junk but I have since built 2 cob LEDs myself. Now me and my plants are happy.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Jack Reacher said:
This is the most fun I've had since starting to grow. Reading about COB's is a gas. I've been using CFLs to get started. Now I want to get serious. I have an area 27" wide x 18" deep x 54" tall to grow in. I am thinking of going to autoflowers due to the height restrictions and the cold temps in the winter. This winter has been mild- lows of -3F so far. I live at 5000' feet in Eastern Oregon, short growing season for outside. Anyway I want to build my own grow light, thinking Vero 18's, 4000K, one driver, lower current to keep temps down. Maybe one driver for veg and another to turn on (adding light ) when flowering. I have access to free desktop computers- getting power supplies, heatsinks and fans which I have incorporated into my CFL grow. I used to build desktops for fun so I'm familiar with some of this stuff. I was a remodel contractor so I've played with residential electricity. I know I can do this with a little guidance.

I want to build a light for veg and flower both. Thinking veg parts first, then add flower parts in a month.

I also have a 3'x3' closet with a slope ceiling that I intend to make into another grow area. 54" max height again. So thinking of a similar light for there down the road. I want to get a perpetual grow going. 2 plants a month or so.

What do you experts recommend? Yes $ is important but I'd like to start small and add to as I go.
Thanks for your advise and all the info in this thread. Amazing. Glad I didn't buy anything prebuilt!!
Click to expand...
Bonjour
You said you live in a cold place...that's why you want to go with autoflo...then you said you want to skip to led because they produce less heat!?!?!???
I have 32 inches tall and I grow only fem (it will change because I have a vegg room now...so regular!) And no problem of size...I could grow a 18weeks sativa in my box...I already done it...you just need a metal screen and anything to tie plants...a bit of lst a bit of supercropping some pinching and bending...to get a buds carpet!
CU
 
Jack Reacher

Jack Reacher

Active Member
I understand that the plants respond to COBs much better than CFL. With COB I get less heat so less ventilation to mess with. Less of an electric bill. Better quality bud. Less effort, less cost. If I need to add heat I can use a thermostatically controlled heater. Better control. Have you guys seen the Arduino controlled moisture meter?? Spot on automatic watering?? This is going to get really interesting. I need more space.
Where do you find info on the light footprint of various COBs?? I used to design and install automatic landscape watering systems. Had the watering patterns and flow rates. Seems to me it would be similar with light. I can't seem to locate any info along those lines.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Jack Reacher said:
I understand that the plants respond to COBs much better than CFL. With COB I get less heat so less ventilation to mess with. Less of an electric bill. Better quality bud. Less effort, less cost. If I need to add heat I can use a thermostatically controlled heater. Better control. Have you guys seen the Arduino controlled moisture meter?? Spot on automatic watering?? This is going to get really interesting. I need more space.
Where do you find info on the light footprint of various COBs?? I used to design and install automatic landscape watering systems. Had the watering patterns and flow rates. Seems to me it would be similar with light. I can't seem to locate any info along those lines.
Click to expand...
I did like too...but no Info on it!???
A cxb 3590 @1400mA can light 2x2 but 1.5x1.5 pretty well (I tried with 4 @50w over a 3.5x3.5x4.5)
Multiple light sources mean more coverage!
My final plan is to have a cob OVER each sq/ft @50w and to dim it how I want
CU
 
hillbill

hillbill

Well-Known Member
50 watts of high quality led or cob sq/ft is way plenty. Right now that's about where i'm at and the plants are being all they can be. Sure don't need more than that! Multiple lights sources are awesome. Lack of shade should tell us something. Love all the angles and light hitting between leaves.
 
Jack Reacher

Jack Reacher

Active Member
So it might be better to use more Vero 10's or 13's than say 2 Vero 18s to cover my 18 x 27 footprint. Keep the wattage the same, more or less. A little more work but better quality illumination. How do you figure how many cobs a driver can handle?? I'd like to oversize the driver somewhat to be able to add later. Or is that a bad idea?? Just add a driver when adding more LEDs, like deep red or something. Heatsinks seem to be a hitch. I saw the liquid cooling thread. That looks like a good way to go.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
@Jack Reacher

As you know, there's so many options to choose from. Luckily from what I see from your comments, you're working with a relatively small space so running smaller cobs (Vero 10, 13) rather than bigger cobs (Vero 18, 29) will be a more suitable approach for you. If you plan on growing in this space from seedling to harvest, I'd consider Vero 13's or 18's. If the space is confined and reflected, then I'd blow off the option of using optics. If choosing the right driver(s) is an obstacle, stick the browsing through MeanWell's selection of drivers, as the datasheets and selection is top notch. With Vero cobs, you can aim at ~30W dissipated/ sq. feet. Don't worry about adding mono led stars.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I guess this graph is upside down...I don't understand...it is because I am french I guess...but I think that mean that V29 have more par/w than cxb3590!??????...I guess I smoked too much and dream awake!
CU
 
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