frica
Well-Known Member
By the Especification the Midadas it has the dimensions in an image.
The base is 5mm thick.
It would work... probably.
Of course tools are better but it does the job.
A Thread On Tapping
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
The base is 5mm thick.
It would work... probably.
Of course tools are better but it does the job.
EfficientWatt
Well-Known Member
I'm waiting on 90Kg of heatsinks, got 2000$ worth of cobs ... but I have NO experience in tapping (yet) 
I'm having trouble with the tapping and screw lingo
Everytime I decide to read about it, it's like a buffer overflow DOS in my brain
I got myself some m3 4-40 screws and this m3 'spiral" tapping bit : http://www.ebay.com/itm/221968726813?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=520850150910&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
... just realized it might not be the right one as it says "hand plug"
What actual tapping bit and drill size would be recommended for those m3 4-40 screws ?
I'm having trouble with the tapping and screw lingo
Everytime I decide to read about it, it's like a buffer overflow DOS in my brain
I got myself some m3 4-40 screws and this m3 'spiral" tapping bit : http://www.ebay.com/itm/221968726813?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=520850150910&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
... just realized it might not be the right one as it says "hand plug"
What actual tapping bit and drill size would be recommended for those m3 4-40 screws ?
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Abiqua
Well-Known Member
I'm waiting on 90Kg of heatsinks, got 2000$ worth of cobs ... but I have NO experience in tapping (yet)
I'm having trouble with the tapping and screw lingo
I got myself some m3 4-40 screws and this m3 'spiral" tapping bit : http://www.ebay.com/itm/221968726813?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=520850150910&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
... just realized it might not be the right one as it says "hand plug"
What actual tapping bit and drill size would be recommended for those m3 4-40 screws ?
Do you want holes that have a bottom [blind holes] use this.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-40-H2-Spiral-Flute-Bottoming-ANSI-CNC-Tap-HSS-V-TiN-Coated-YG-1-Part-F8162-/151621686729?hash=item234d5b55c9:m:mNjJ-8pqF1B389592uHET3g
But if you are just making holes all the way thru the metal and just want threads.....
Just about anywhere that sells tapping equipment, will probably have a 4-40 Spiral Tip...
EfficientWatt
Well-Known Member
Thanks Abiqua,
I was planning on having blind holes, but I guess it's not a deal breaker if i have to go all the way thru...
Is the one I bought completely useless then ?
I was planning on having blind holes, but I guess it's not a deal breaker if i have to go all the way thru...
Is the one I bought completely useless then ?
EDIT : The bottoming tap seller is asking for 45$ for shipping to europe :/ looking for another source grrrDo you want holes that have a bottom [blind holes] use this.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-40-H2-Spiral-Flute-Bottoming-ANSI-CNC-Tap-HSS-V-TiN-Coated-YG-1-Part-F8162-/151621686729?hash=item234d5b55c9:m:mNjJ-8pqF1B389592uHET3g
But if you are just making holes all the way thru the metal and just want threads.....
Just about anywhere that sells tapping equipment, will probably have a 4-40 Spiral Tip...
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
just search for spiral flute bottoming tap 4-40 and you should find all kinds!!Thanks Abiqua,
I was planning on having blind holes, but I guess it's not a deal breaker if i have to go all the way thru...
Is the one I bought completely useless then ?
EDIT : The bottoming tap seller is asking for 45$ for shipping to europe :/ looking for another source grrr
and as far as your current tap....I would suggest making a couple of test holes 1st and see how the threads work with your existing M3 screws and definitely not for blind holes!....but looks ok!
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
@EfficientWatt
I believe what you have is a fluted spiral tip tap, Google it for its working abilities.....
I believe what you have is a fluted spiral tip tap, Google it for its working abilities.....
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Steel-Thread-Metric-Spiral/dp/B01A5O09VK
on a small power hand drill should do just fine , myself i'd use my drill press .
You need practice with sprial taps as that tap will pull it's self down in AL there is no need to back turn as the sprial lifts chips
I have my doz of 3590 in hand atm , I am testing a self tap screw but it's not really available
that I can find
they come outta electronic gear & less so in PC's unless you might find some on Dell & the like
they are for punched steel & have a straight cut tip but it's a nub that has no threads at the end
This screw has threads that spiral down so it sinks fast , sets in AL nicely
as for hold they do fine I worry about stripping by over torque
that nub helps set the screw & with alignment
on a small power hand drill should do just fine , myself i'd use my drill press .
You need practice with sprial taps as that tap will pull it's self down in AL there is no need to back turn as the sprial lifts chips
I have my doz of 3590 in hand atm , I am testing a self tap screw but it's not really available
that I can find
they come outta electronic gear & less so in PC's unless you might find some on Dell & the like
they are for punched steel & have a straight cut tip but it's a nub that has no threads at the end
This screw has threads that spiral down so it sinks fast , sets in AL nicely
as for hold they do fine I worry about stripping by over torque
that nub helps set the screw & with alignment
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I just used a hand drill, drilled holes in the HS(Alpine 64 gt x 6) a little deeper than the length of the screws, used a much larger drill bit spun by hand to clean up the burr on the surface and then slowly screwed in the screws with a hand screwdriver. If I felt any resistance on the screw i backed it out and blew off the threads on the screw.
I didn't break a single screw. In fact the only problem I had was I somehow messed up and drilled a hole to close to the other. So while i could use the one hole fine the other was only half visible through the other hole in the Vero. For that I just turned the cob slightly and redrilled the second hole. The cob isn't perfectly square but is on the heatsink base solidly and I don't think the plants will care that its slightly tilted.
I didn't break a single screw. In fact the only problem I had was I somehow messed up and drilled a hole to close to the other. So while i could use the one hole fine the other was only half visible through the other hole in the Vero. For that I just turned the cob slightly and redrilled the second hole. The cob isn't perfectly square but is on the heatsink base solidly and I don't think the plants will care that its slightly tilted.
I am a little baffled that I myself never came up with the idea to fix COBs with zip-ties. I mean I am using zip-ties all the time for other stuff. I realize it's "ghetto", but it might work if someone isn't too confident tapping. (The fact that I don't have experience with tapping is the ONLY reason I have my lights built and don't do DIY from scratch). TBH, I'd rather use zip-ties than a permanent thermal *adhesive* which basically destroys COBs. And in the meantime, while you use zip-ties, one can always learn how to drill/tap...and then you can tap the sink when you figured it out. I like that idea, saves me from having my next light built by others again!
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
can you point me at where you seen zip ties used as attaching a cob holder to a sink
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
I ordered that spiral tap set by mistake had in my amazon cart
But looks to be put to use on the a/c64's i got I want the ac64's tapped
as if I ever sold the coolers with the cobs att'd I'd want tapped holders IF I was the buyer (that's how i roll )
But looks to be put to use on the a/c64's i got I want the ac64's tapped
as if I ever sold the coolers with the cobs att'd I'd want tapped holders IF I was the buyer (that's how i roll )
The OP mentioned it casually. I didn't see any threads but I can see this being doable if the heatsink is not that wide, like say 10-20cm or so. It should be easy to fix the COB holders, say, for the CXB3590, on the sink, attaching them to the holes on the holder (on each side of the holder)..and then guide the ties around the sink.
(If it works with PC fans which I mount on heatsinks all-the time using some way with zip-ties, I am sure it would work for COBs too)
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Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
at the $$ investment costs of a 3590 I'd not do it as I don't think you can get enuuff downward contact pressure to transfer heat correctly off the cob with a ziptie there's no way to control/fine tune that pressure imo
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
LOL @flexy123
For my very first DIY COB project, which took place many moons ago, I bought some heat sinks that made it nearly impossible to drill holes into for screws, as I didn't have a solid surface to drill into but instead fins.
I just decided that zip ties would do and they did. Definitely not an optimal alternative for securing Vero 18s down but I went with it and had no visible problems taking that route and the bounty was well worth my DIY-related efforts.
For my very first DIY COB project, which took place many moons ago, I bought some heat sinks that made it nearly impossible to drill holes into for screws, as I didn't have a solid surface to drill into but instead fins.
I just decided that zip ties would do and they did. Definitely not an optimal alternative for securing Vero 18s down but I went with it and had no visible problems taking that route and the bounty was well worth my DIY-related efforts.
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
I just tossed a bunch of those brand new
left overs from a bye gone era ,
left overs from a bye gone era ,
