• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Electrical help

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patrickkawi37

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
Oh, and pay no attention to that minimum order stuff on Alibaba's site....they are eager as hell to sell you shit, they'll sell just one. Or in your case 16 plus a spare.
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Haha I can see that. They want to sell me 50. Do you know if you use 110 plugs or 220? I really appreciate all your help
 
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orbo

orbo

Well-Known Member
If you're going to get 208V lighting I would definitely stick with 240V NEMA plugs and receptacles for it ....it will keep you and any "helpers" from blowing shit up.

Why do you say its a bummer? If you do everything in 120V and the lighting with those multi-volt Chinese ballast's you'll still be able to do whatever/wherever you want in the future. Of course if you commit to 208V A/C units then you're kinda stuck. Not sure you can get those multi-volt.

Edit: You edited, now ^^ doesn't make sense!! LOL Oh well, it makes sense to you.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
Oh, and pay no attention to that minimum order stuff on Alibaba's site....they are eager as hell to sell you shit, they'll sell just one. Or in your case 16 plus a spare.
Click to expand...
Write them where it says to ask for a quote and tell them no way you are buying 5 or whatever until you see the quality and try them.They will sell you a few or even one. I buy AR15 parts all the time that way. Like machined handguards selling for $85+ here I get there for $29 +S/H.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
If you're going to get 208V lighting I would definitely stick with 240V NEMA plugs and receptacles for it ....it will keep you and any "helpers" from blowing shit up.

Why do you say its a bummer? If you do everything in 120V and the lighting with those multi-volt Chinese ballast's you'll still be able to do whatever/wherever you want in the future. Of course if you commit to 208V A/C units then you're kinda stuck. Not sure you can get those multi-volt.

Edit: You edited, now ^^ doesn't make sense!! LOL Oh well, it makes sense to you.
Click to expand...
In my experience it's slightly cheaper to run 240V. Am I just mistaken?
 
orbo

orbo

Well-Known Member
hotrodharley said:
In my experience it's slightly cheaper to run 240V. Am I just mistaken?
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Some say thats debatable...I say its not. Power co. charges by the watt...and a watt is a watt is a watt...running on 120 or 240. The cost savings come into play when running wire during construction. An example; a piece of gear needing - lets say - 22 amps. Well, if it was 120v you'd need to upsize the wire to #10 copper to handle that load whereas you could run standard #12 with 240v. Copper idn't cheap. Multiply that times 500 runs in a commercial setting or even 4 or 5 in a residential and you could see where the costs start to mount up. There are other advantages when running 240v over 120v but it becomes kinda theoretical beyond my example.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
Some say thats debatable...I say its not. Power co. charges by the watt...and a watt is a watt is a watt...running on 120 or 240. The cost savings come into play when running wire during construction. An example; a piece of gear needing - lets say - 22 amps. Well, if it was 120v you'd need to upsize the wire to #10 copper to handle that load whereas you could run standard #12 with 240v. Copper idn't cheap. Multiply that times 500 runs in a commercial setting or even 4 or 5 in a residential and you could see where the costs start to mount up. There are other advantages when running 240v over 120v but it becomes kinda theoretical beyond my example.
Click to expand...
Thanks. That helps. Or will in the near future.
 
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patrickkawi37

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
If you're going to get 208V lighting I would definitely stick with 240V NEMA plugs and receptacles for it ....it will keep you and any "helpers" from blowing shit up.

Why do you say its a bummer? If you do everything in 120V and the lighting with those multi-volt Chinese ballast's you'll still be able to do whatever/wherever you want in the future. Of course if you commit to 208V A/C units then you're kinda stuck. Not sure you can get those multi-volt.

Edit: You edited, now ^^ doesn't make sense!! LOL Oh well, it makes sense to you.
Click to expand...
orbo said:
If you're going to get 208V lighting I would definitely stick with 240V NEMA plugs and receptacles for it ....it will keep you and any "helpers" from blowing shit up.

Why do you say its a bummer? If you do everything in 120V and the lighting with those multi-volt Chinese ballast's you'll still be able to do whatever/wherever you want in the future. Of course if you commit to 208V A/C units then you're kinda stuck. Not sure you can get those multi-volt.

Edit: You edited, now ^^ doesn't make sense!! LOL Oh well, it makes sense to you.
Click to expand...
ok so still use the 240 plug.. But the ballast should automatically know it's on 208 and be running at full juice ? And I can also use these ballasts at 120 and 240 i read so it shouldn't be any different with equipment besides air conditioners, you are right .
 
orbo

orbo

Well-Known Member
patrickkawi37 said:
ok so still use the 240 plug.. But the ballast should automatically know it's on 208 and be running at full juice ? And I can also use these ballasts at 120 and 240 i read so it shouldn't be any different with equipment besides air conditioners, you are right .
Click to expand...
Yeah, those new digital multivolt ballasts auto-switch to the desired voltage. The old ones you had to wire up.

And yes, you can do whatever you want with the plugs/receptacles. Generally 2 hots and a ground...standard stuff. I recommend the 240v hardware wherever you need 208v just so someone doesn't accidentally plug a fan into a light outlet...
 
orbo

orbo

Well-Known Member
patrickkawi37 said:
ok so still use the 240 plug.. But the ballast should automatically know it's on 208 and be running at full juice ? And I can also use these ballasts at 120 and 240 i read so it shouldn't be any different with equipment besides air conditioners, you are right .
Click to expand...
As far as full juice, many are dimable so thats up to you to ensure its dialed up to full juice. (usually a dial on the side) MORE POWER BABY!!!! lol... That what we used to say when doing 2500A commercial panels. Cock suckers used wire that was damn near the size of a $.50 piece.
 
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patrickkawi37

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
As far as full juice, many are dimable so thats up to you to ensure its dialed up to full juice. (usually a dial on the side) MORE POWER BABY!!!! lol... That what we used to say when doing 2500A commercial panels. Cock suckers used wire that was damn near the size of a $.50 piece.
Click to expand...
orbo said:
Yeah, those new digital multivolt ballasts auto-switch to the desired voltage. The old ones you had to wire up.

And yes, you can do whatever you want with the plugs/receptacles. Generally 2 hots and a ground...standard stuff. I recommend the 240v hardware wherever you need 208v just so someone doesn't accidentally plug a fan into a light outlet...
Click to expand...
am I supposed to wire the lighting controller for 240v as well? Am I going to lose some efficiency with this if so?
 
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patrickkawi37

Well-Known Member
orbo said:
You could use the lighting controllers to activate a contactor and turn the light on regardless of the controller voltages and lighting voltages.
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I called Titan controls and the dude says they don't make a Helios controller for 3 phase . They make some big ass do it yourself panel thing for 3grand but that's the closest to what I'm looking for. He said that people take them apart and make them work but you could build a controller for same price if you have an electrician .hopefully my electrician is up to the task
 
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