Dyna-Gro Experiment

guerrilla medic said:
just to comment on the earlier post i made about the hg aquaflakes: i was having all kinds of trouble keeping my clones healthy looking in coco, however this is not the case in dwc(maybe because they're made for dwc lol).while they did not work well for me in coco they are doing great growing the same cut in dwc......that is all.
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I am starting to lose a little faith in coco myself. The younger plants either need potted in even smaller cups or something, cause thats where I have issues. I know its supposed to maintain good oxygen levels even when saturated but must not be enough for seedlings. I mean, I'm already in solo cups and some still suffer from over-watering from just staying wet too long. Then there's the whole cation exchange capacity thing. Still not going back to dwc though lol jk. I started some clones in solo cups of perlite. I will see how I like the perlite compared to the coco.
 
there is definitely something about vegging in coco that i am just not getting. flowering goes great. on my two previous runs i grew dongs. weight was good. quality was good. the dg grow has em looking a little greener but i am getting a little leaf curl even feeding at what i consider really low.7 ec. also getting what appears to be mild phosphorus deficiency. i am not really that great at diagnosing nutrient problems. is there something that can cause leaf curl besides too much nitrogen?
 
When you guys measure your ppms, is it with or without the base measurement of your water?

For example, my water is consistently between 150 and 160 on the Hanna scale so about 0.3 ec. When someone says they feed at 600 ppm is that 600 plus the base 150 for a total of 750, or is that the base 150 plus 450 for a total of 600 all together
 
guerrilla medic said:
there is definitely something about vegging in coco that i am just not getting. flowering goes great. on my two previous runs i grew dongs. weight was good. quality was good. the dg grow has em looking a little greener but i am getting a little leaf curl even feeding at what i consider really low.7 ec. also getting what appears to be mild phosphorus deficiency. i am not really that great at diagnosing nutrient problems. is there something that can cause leaf curl besides too much nitrogen?
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A phosphorus 'deficiency' really doesn't exist as long as your food is supplying some. That being said, if you're getting leaf curl, cut back your dose of Grow.
 
Dboi87 said:
When you guys measure your ppms, is it with or without the base measurement of your water?

For example, my water is consistently between 150 and 160 on the Hanna scale so about 0.3 ec. When someone says they feed at 600 ppm is that 600 plus the base 150 for a total of 750, or is that the base 150 plus 450 for a total of 600 all together
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People probably include their tap water's ppm when they state their feeding levels but if their plants look great, it's safe to assume their tap water's mineral content is low.
 
i include my tap in my total number. HB what kind of nutrient regimen were you using in coco? were you having good looking plants in veg? .7 seems relatively low compared to what im usually running, but maybe i'll back em down a little more.
 
guerrilla medic said:
i include my tap total number. HB what kind of nutrient regimen were you using in coco? were you having good looking plants in veg? .7 seems relatively low compared to what im usually running, but maybe i'll back em down a little more.
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I personally would not run anything over 1/2 tsp a gallon, about .5 ec. I would try cutting them back and see how they look.
The only issues I had was a slight calcium def.
 
guerrilla medic said:
i include my tap in my total number. HB what kind of nutrient regimen were you using in coco? were you having good looking plants in veg? .7 seems relatively low compared to what im usually running, but maybe i'll back em down a little more.
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When I messed with coco, I used what I always use; a dash of Protekt and some foliage pro. It worked great at all stages but I like my promix mix much better. It drains well yet dries out evenly and fairly quickly. I don't use straight Promix though, I add perlite and vermiculite.
 
hb you were right buddy. my meter was reading low. i bought a couple new meters and some calibration solution and tested everything and there it is. what i thought was .75 was actually like 1.1. a substantial difference. i've been using that thing for years and it has always been consistent but must have been reading low the entire time. my dwc plants just ate it up without a problem. so i have basically been trying to feed freshly rooted clones in coco 1.1 ec and even higher at times. the plants have been looking pretty decent even being fed 1.1 but ill bet after a couple new feedings they will be looking tits.
 
Hey @homebrewer what do you think? Nute burn or... Potassium deficiency? Had a few that got a little tip burn a little while back, but nothing much. Now there is more tip burn and also on the edges of the leaves now as well. Classic nute burn or what?
 

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homebrewer said:
When I messed with coco, I used what I always use; a dash of Protekt and some foliage pro. It worked great at all stages but I like my promix mix much better. It drains well yet dries out evenly and fairly quickly. I don't use straight Promix though, I add perlite and vermiculite.
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Are you in Promix HP or BX? When speaking to the Promix rep at a recent show, he said it was interesting to see that most people on the west coast, with much hotter / drier conditions were using the HP when he thought we should be using the BX. Whereas people on the east coast should be using the HP because to drained better than the BX. BX was designed to hold more water longer while the HP (High Porosity, containing perlite) was designed to drain / dry quicker. Anyway... I use HP and add the vermiculite but no more perlite than what is already contained within the mix.
 
Theophilus said:
Are you in Promix HP or BX? When speaking to the Promix rep at a recent show, he said it was interesting to see that most people on the west coast, with much hotter / drier conditions were using the HP when he thought we should be using the BX. Whereas people on the east coast should be using the HP because to drained better than the BX. BX was designed to hold more water longer while the HP (High Porosity, containing perlite) was designed to drain / dry quicker. Anyway... I use HP and add the vermiculite but no more perlite than what is already contained within the mix.
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I'm using the BX but I add vermiculite and perlite to even out the texture and help with aeration and drainage.
 
homebrewer said:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/02911.html
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Thanks brother. I wasn't even looking in that direction but, looking back, it makes sense. Temps are a little high and when I first transferred them over I wasn't flooding deep enough, damaging top roots and bottom leaves began to yellow and fall. Then I went deeper floods and more frequently which might have been too often, further damaging my roots. I should've never changed two things at once-flood depth and flood intervals, stupid move.
Thanks again hb.
 
I initially was thinking deficiency because I was also experiencing yellowing of the lower leaves as well. But the tips were pretty burnt on some though so I was a little thrown. Really didn't think I was feeding enough to get nute burn so I wasn't sure which direction to go. The heat stress/root damage diagnosis seems spot on because of issues I was having with flood depths. Used a little bigger pots and must be a little bigger than I was thinking-coco wasn't wicking high enough and could have damaged the roots. This, along with temps in the low 80's, could be exactly what's causing my issues.
 
DirtyMcCurdy said:
I initially was thinking deficiency because I was also experiencing yellowing of the lower leaves as well. But the tips were pretty burnt on some though so I was a little thrown. Really didn't think I was feeding enough to get nute burn so I wasn't sure which direction to go. The heat stress/root damage diagnosis seems spot on because of issues I was having with flood depths. Used a little bigger pots and must be a little bigger than I was thinking-coco wasn't wicking high enough and could have damaged the roots. This, along with temps in the low 80's, could be exactly what's causing my issues.
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It would be awful hard for you to have a real deficiency considering your plant food is already supplying all the elements your plants need.

Coco can be finicky in regards to the medium drying out too much and concentrating salts in the root zone. That's why I like a promix-type mixture which dries out and drains more evenly.
 
Its been a while since I posted, this is something I been wanting to say after reading this.. Dyna grow with sweet and pure blend tea gave me the best flavor .. First time using dyna grow side by side up against general hydroponics clones same age gh lacked in flavor and won in yield, dyna grow won in the flavor not much less in yield . both finished very healthy 7- 10 grams less on both holy grail Kush 2 different phenos . same result I did 4 cuts 2 on gh two on dyna grow drain to waste sunshine mix4 . Same temps same room
1 phenol fed gh yielded more same phenol in dyna grow yielded less but man the flavor was amazing no bull the flavor would last all to the roach, gh same pheno did have flavor just not that intense.. I would say this dyna grow is worth looking into. it was my first time using Dyna grow so I could maybe get more yield next time off of dyna grow. I promise and swear I did my best to provide rollitup members with accurate information .
 
homebrewer said:
It would be awful hard for you to have a real deficiency considering your plant food is already supplying all the elements your plants need.
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Yeah, I wasn't sure which way to go. There were traits for both deficiency and nute burn but there were also traits pointing away from each. The one thing that had me questioning potassium def. was the use of calmag as calcium can antagonize potassium. At only a 1/4tsp a gallon or 100ppm I was fairly sure it wasn't the issue. But if looking at pictures of K deficiency it looks very similar to what I have going on. Not saying thats what it is, just looks a lot like it.
homebrewer said:
Coco can be finicky in regards to the medium drying out too much and concentrating salts in the root zone. That's why I like a promix-type mixture which dries out and drains more evenly.
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I was already on the fence with continuing the use of coco, really looking into perlite. I've always liked pure hydro better-used hydroton and growstones in the past with great success and will be going back to one or the other, or going with perlite.
 
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