Doer
Well-Known Member
Seconded that again. (4thed it?) Just using some yesterday for light dosing a set of 4 week old Rooters. No pH change at all from Blast.
But, it is a big contributor to PPM.
Beneficial Additives in Hydroponics! *A MUST READ*
- Thread starter jpeg666
- Start date
But, it is a big contributor to PPM.
aus2 canibasiva
Well-Known Member
This thread has some of the best information iv'e ever read and sources to!!
beautifully written, I couldn't ask for a better read.
I love THE SCIENCEsections!
Thanks alot.
beautifully written, I couldn't ask for a better read.
I love THE SCIENCEsections!
Thanks alot.
jpeg666
Well-Known Member
I have not been a fan of AN due to various reasons. My personal Unbiased opinion about the 30% yield increase, Load of marketing BS. I am not saying that because of my personal feelings for AN. I would say the same thing about products I like and use. To an extent Big numbers and MASSIVE INCREASED YIELDS, slapped onto a bottle of nutrients, all just ways to make their product look good. I am sure In perfect conditions and carefully bred genes make up way more of that 30% than the actual nutrients in the bottle claim to.First off i grow in a Sea of Green style, Currently i am usuing the whole line of Cyco Addatives with the trio of primordial solutions and the results are appearing efficient. Now ive only heard good things about advanced nutrients connoisseur A + B. Advanced claims that these 2 bottles will increase your harvest by 30% (Not to mention that they are PH Perfect) My idea is to switch out the base Cyco Bloom A + B (American No pgrs) with the Connoisseur A + B. Cyco is a pharmaceutical grade nutrient so switching the bloom bottles could potentially increase yield while keeping some good quality.... all thoughts are appreciated​
Happy Growing
Thoughts on your idea of changing though, Do it, See what happens. I am all for experimentation and believe in tweaking things until I get the best performance (Overclocking Computers in my case proves that statement about me).
I mean worst case is your plant won't like it and you can try something else. Best case you may increase your yield. Personally I would try it on a single plant out of the group that is on par with the others so if there is a dramatic change in size(for better or for worst) You'll know what did it.
The Varmint
Member
WOW! What a wealth of information, now an attempt to digest it all. Thank you so much for this valuable education.
cannaculturalist
Well-Known Member
Brilliant post jpeg666. Being new to the hydro game it has been a minefield of information to work out what I really should be using. I'm a horticulturalist and while I have experience with some of this stuff with outdoor soil gardening, I've never needed to delve quite so deep into the specifics of all of this stuff (soil is such a forgiving thing to work with). Incredibly thrilled with your referencing too - anecdotal evidence and marketing pitches only help so much in making sense of the products on the market. This thread is going to be on my reference list for the future.
To anyone else new to hydro, or just interested in how nutrients and additives work in this is an absolute must read. Sure some of it is very in depth, but it can only lead to better results.
Three cheers
To anyone else new to hydro, or just interested in how nutrients and additives work in this is an absolute must read. Sure some of it is very in depth, but it can only lead to better results.
Three cheers
Doer
Well-Known Member
I am having the best result ever, just in a plain, old 16-16-16 Sea Grow or I could use Max Sea, but more expensive. A lot of guys just use Miracle Grow.
So, this point of this thread to me, is to understand what the plant needs and when, so any defects can be corrected. I use spray for that, like Cal/Mag or UAN-28 w/Iron (lawn food)
But, if all the nutrition is there, and it is a constant feed situation, that is my definition of Hydro now.
You can either hang the roots in water, which I think is fraught with dangers and I muddled through 2 years of that, lost crops to root rot, etc. Or, can do what I did and get the roots out of the water, in hydroton and coco coir 50/50 or another fully draining medium, like gravel.
Pump the water to rings at the top and let them drain back into a reservoir. Now I am doing organic feed in Hydroponics. But, the trick is, I have four, 5 gal reservoirs that have 2 rosebuckets each. The buckets move between the lighting areas.
My experience with these multi-part, in-oganic, hydro nutes, is they don't seem to work well, for me. And the more I listen to guys like Uncle Ben and Uncle Buck, here on RIU, the more I realize this is as hard as we make it on ourselves....and we are the hardest nut the plant must crack to live.
So, drive yourself crazy with AN vs GM vs DM vs Canna, Or go Humboldt, FoxFarms, CrazyLand Moon Dust, all you want. But realize, like all life, these plants cherishes stability not change.
For example, have I ever mentioned Cool Blooming or Bloom Blasting or Moon Dance Flowering? No. I keep a constant 16-16-16 in front of them with little Cal/Mag and some Silicon. That strength just increases in their life from 90ppm to around 450ppm.
Don't get me started on those LYING nute charts. You know they say, this grows like tomato. Not really. Tomato is a voracious feeder, and a low level leaf producer. So, I will say NONE of this stuff is for Cannabis. It is for Greenhouse grocery produce.
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, so we need to know this stuff....for when it goes south. Like Uncle Ben says, if you have no defects you need no corrections. My experience is that if you treat this like a fast growing houseplant and not a tomato it works out much better.
I looked around and said, "Why is all the ganja doing poorly and the houseplants are fine?" That took a while for me to grasp.
Simple. I leave the houseplants alone.
So, this point of this thread to me, is to understand what the plant needs and when, so any defects can be corrected. I use spray for that, like Cal/Mag or UAN-28 w/Iron (lawn food)
But, if all the nutrition is there, and it is a constant feed situation, that is my definition of Hydro now.
You can either hang the roots in water, which I think is fraught with dangers and I muddled through 2 years of that, lost crops to root rot, etc. Or, can do what I did and get the roots out of the water, in hydroton and coco coir 50/50 or another fully draining medium, like gravel.
Pump the water to rings at the top and let them drain back into a reservoir. Now I am doing organic feed in Hydroponics. But, the trick is, I have four, 5 gal reservoirs that have 2 rosebuckets each. The buckets move between the lighting areas.
My experience with these multi-part, in-oganic, hydro nutes, is they don't seem to work well, for me. And the more I listen to guys like Uncle Ben and Uncle Buck, here on RIU, the more I realize this is as hard as we make it on ourselves....and we are the hardest nut the plant must crack to live.
So, drive yourself crazy with AN vs GM vs DM vs Canna, Or go Humboldt, FoxFarms, CrazyLand Moon Dust, all you want. But realize, like all life, these plants cherishes stability not change.
For example, have I ever mentioned Cool Blooming or Bloom Blasting or Moon Dance Flowering? No. I keep a constant 16-16-16 in front of them with little Cal/Mag and some Silicon. That strength just increases in their life from 90ppm to around 450ppm.
Don't get me started on those LYING nute charts. You know they say, this grows like tomato. Not really. Tomato is a voracious feeder, and a low level leaf producer. So, I will say NONE of this stuff is for Cannabis. It is for Greenhouse grocery produce.
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, so we need to know this stuff....for when it goes south. Like Uncle Ben says, if you have no defects you need no corrections. My experience is that if you treat this like a fast growing houseplant and not a tomato it works out much better.
I looked around and said, "Why is all the ganja doing poorly and the houseplants are fine?" That took a while for me to grasp.
Simple. I leave the houseplants alone.
hiddenkoncept
Member
One of the first threads I bookmarked and its still the one I read the most. All hydro growers...hell all growers should give this a read
colatraine
New Member
Hey,
I am doing the heisenberg tea and read not to use any organics..earlier in this thread was stated that citric acid is organic..this is in my ph down, and I was wondering if there is a ph down that is completely synthetic/non-organic?
And thanks for the great info!
I am doing the heisenberg tea and read not to use any organics..earlier in this thread was stated that citric acid is organic..this is in my ph down, and I was wondering if there is a ph down that is completely synthetic/non-organic?
And thanks for the great info!
Doer
Well-Known Member
I buy nitric acid at 28%. USE EYE PROTECTION I reduce that down to 1/2 or 1/4 strength, whatever I need.
cannaculturalist
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't expect citric acid to be a problem. It is important to note the different uses of the term 'organic'. In general chemistry terms, organic refers to carbon based molecules. In casual gardening discussion, organic refers to anything which is NOT a synthetically derived substance (inert and void of active biology) - which retains character of the natural environment and is 'alive'. Citric acid is organic in both senses (but isn't active/alive) (depending on source, could be a synthetic), so shouldn't cause any problems (particularly in the quantity used). I expect the major concern with using organics are those which are alive/active and have molecules which are more reactive/subject to environmental situations which result in biological processes.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
One little secret grow technique I would like to add is fulvic acid foliar sprays. People have their theories and this and that but I can tell you that there is a product called liquid gold that is made by flower products? It has a ram on the bottle and you use it in minuscule amounts, like 2ml/liter. Spray every other day and you WILL see your flowers bulk up and increased trich production.
Trust me, this stuff is awesome and costs like $15 a bottle. I'm telling you, this stuff is the BOMB
Trust me, this stuff is awesome and costs like $15 a bottle. I'm telling you, this stuff is the BOMB
Mr Chocolate
Member
Bump to a great thread.
Aeroknow
Well-Known Member
I'm dabbling with Chitosan
Just got 2 kilos from China for 217.00 USD.
Dude selling it on Ebay is way more expensive. Just an FYI