Precisely my friend. Hopefully someone sparky enough can tell me .if want to get technical the camera power plugs are designed for low voltage DC. don't know if that matters.
like many projects, if I built it again, I could build it better, faster and cheaper. But here is the breakdown
16- xml2 - $96 (Rapid LED)
LPC 60 - $44 ($22/ea) (mouser maybe, or amazon?)
heatsinks - $140 (heatsinkusa)
hlg120-700 $65
cxa3070AD (ebay $37ea, 20 lot price) $240
alum channel $52 (online metals.com)
12 luxeon 3w and driver ~ $55
component total ~$640 plus $150-200 for solder, flux, server screen, heatshrink, fans, apv12-12, wiring, screws, paint, alum polish, cob holders, thermal grease & epoxy, connectors etc.
its the little shit that adds up, but you buy way more than you need so you have it for the next project.
monos are still more efficient than whites. monos are also useful to fill out the extra voltage available from the driver, that's why I prefer to go with 1050ma drivers instead of 1400ma.The blue and red Lux ES add more to the edges of your spectrum which is good, they are just must less powerful and efficient, its the white that is changing the game. That said my light currently has 4 cobs and 12 lux es red/blue (waiting on my driver to doube that).
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How can you do that? just run a driver ma that wont blow the monos and use up the "slack" with them?monos are still more efficient than whites. monos are also useful to fill out the extra voltage available from the driver, that's why I prefer to go with 1050ma drivers instead of 1400ma.
uhhh yeah you got it! example:How can you do that? just run a driver ma that wont blow the monos and use up the "slack" with them?
true!You don't need to run a lower current though the cobs if you don't want to. You can run 1400ma then split two strings of monos(OR single die) from the 1400 string...making each parallel pull 700ma.
A lot of the folks around here miss the boat when it comes to real world application. I've been experimented with COB spacing and drive currents, and measuring the output with a PAR meter. I've only messed around with the larger COB's and 90 degree reflectors.I've read many, many pages here on DIY LED growligthts. Its seems everyone want to talk tech specs etc. but I see very little about application. I want to know about "where the rubber meets the road"! If your spending hundreds of dollars to build a light, does anyone buy and use a meter to see if your design is distributing all that light in an efficient manner? I would think that would be the way to tweak the final design. and how do you go about deciding proper spacing of the LEDs, as that's critical to optimum coverage. What height above canopy are you/others running their lights? I don't want to just bolt LEDs to a heatsink and see what happens!
I have had so much money going out lately on the equipment I need to run my garden, I just can't find an extra $350 right now for a par meter. i use a simple LUX meter to measure distribution & determine mounting height etc. If I burn something, I check it with a meter and make note. I know it isn't optimal, but it is data and I find it very useful comparing relative "brightness" between my cree led builds. I just dont publish it here or on youtube because I don't want to hear or read "lumens are for humans bro"I've read many, many pages here on DIY LED growligthts. Its seems everyone want to talk tech specs etc. but I see very little about application. I want to know about "where the rubber meets the road"! If your spending hundreds of dollars to build a light, does anyone buy and use a meter to see if your design is distributing all that light in an efficient manner? I would think that would be the way to tweak the final design. and how do you go about deciding proper spacing of the LEDs, as that's critical to optimum coverage. What height above canopy are you/others running their lights? I don't want to just bolt LEDs to a heatsink and see what happens!
maybe pop22 can buy us all par meters for xmasI have had so much money going out lately on the equipment I need to run my garden, I just can't find an extra $350 right now for a par meter. i use a simple LUX meter to measure distribution & determine mounting height etc. If I burn something, I check it with a meter and make note. I know it isn't optimal, but it is data and I find it very useful comparing relative "brightness" between my cree led builds. I just dont publish it here or on youtube because I don't want to hear or read "lumens are for humans bro"