TrichGnome
Member
Drying in this fashion would be detrimental to the texture, smell, and apearence of the final bud. Now I know why half the weed in colorado looks and smells the same.
Definitely man I was thi king that,
I can obviously check each jar with one meter, one came out at 58%[/QU
I guess its like an apple you cut it open and the flesh is exposed to air and turns brown.Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?
I was replying to obijohn.Lol, who you talkin too
Oh shit lol.. I found this post from google search and I just read all the posts and lose track of time.Well im sure he'll appreciate your profound insight 3 years later
Is it better to dry as a whole plant upside down or to groom the nugs in a dehygerating net. And is it better to cut water leaves off at harvest or keep them on during the drying stage. I'm not looking for the easy way just the best. Thank you in advance
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
HTH,
Simon
Right on my brother. Im just listening away. Trying to avoid the hay.Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.
Simon
Whole plant.Is it better to dry as a whole plant upside down or to groom the nugs in a dehygerating net. And is it better to cut water leaves off at harvest or keep them on during the drying stage. I'm not looking for the easy way just the best. Thank you in advance