Growmau5's BML Spydr clone: a diy led build

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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
i just said screw it and pop riveted most of the sheet alum. You can see a little more of the process here: (sorry its a 15min vid, wanted to do it in 10min, but had too much to say, lol
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thanks for sharing, the unit looks great, and the video was NOT too long.

does anybody know how the 2530 stacks up against vero 10s, vero 18s ?
 
Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
OK so I think I'm gonna pull the trigger and start ordering parts but I do have yet a other question or two.

1. Since I can't seem to find any 4000K 3070 Cree anywhere ( I would like the light built in a month from now so can't wait for spec order really)should I just go 3000K for my first 4 cobs knowing I will probably build another 4 light unit to match and just make that one 4000k? I am in a 2*4*5tall tent so you said stretch may be an issue. In your opinion can I get away with this or am I gonna cause myself a headache (newish grower)? Alternatively I can maybe do the Vero 29s in 4000K( they look very nearly the same to noobish eyes), or I could buy like a 300w galaxyhydro to try to limp thru this grow while I source some CXB 3070 4000k. What do you guys suggest?

Also since I am only basically building half the fixture now 4 cobs can I get away with an open design like the original light in this thread? I would rather not have to build a case for half,then rebuild it for the whole thing later considering I don't have a the best tools/work space, so while I know I can make a good clean case, it will take slot of work and I don't want to have to do it twice. Or maybe I just bolt together the 2 separate fixtures at the end. Thoughts?
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@Reggae1017 Taking everything into account from your post above, you may want to consider just building single COB modules. The idea is based on this thread ( that started it all for me)

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/diy-led-with-cobs-small-medium-and-large-grows.64252/

or

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-grow-lights-with-cree-cxa3070-cobs-and-cpu-coolers.805681/

The beauty of single module builds are: they are cheap, easy to build, and offers the most flexibility for your application. You could have one CXA3070 module, one vero29 module, a 3590 module, basically what ever you can imagine. you can angle the lights, add reflectors as needed, and adjust height on a per plant basis.

Then when you are ready, you can scavenge the parts once you have every thing together and slap it all on one heatsink later on. All that is "wasted" is a few $10 CPU coolers.

Also, what strain(s) are you working with
 

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Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Hey
Growmau5 said:
@Reggae1017 Taking everything into account from your post above, you may want to consider just building single COB modules. The idea is based on this thread ( that started it all for me)

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/diy-led-with-cobs-small-medium-and-large-grows.64252/

or

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-grow-lights-with-cree-cxa3070-cobs-and-cpu-coolers.805681/

The beauty of single module builds are: they are cheap, easy to build, and offers the most flexibility for your application. You could have one CXA3070 module, one vero29 module, a 3590 module, basically what ever you can imagine. you can angle the lights, add reflectors as needed, and adjust height on a per plant basis.

Then when you are ready, you can scavenge the parts once you have every thing together and slap it all on one heatsink later on. All that is "wasted" is a few $10 CPU coolers.

Also, what strain(s) are you working with
Click to expand...
Hey thanks for the help and all the info, I have more reading to do! This may be just the way to do it. Currently growing 1 each g13 gigabud, g13 pineapple express 2, and dinafem blue Thai using FIM and LST. Also going to lollipop freebies that I just popped,delicious seeds sugar candy and Barney farm pineapple chunk.
 
Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Growmau5 said:
@Reggae1017 Taking everything into account from your post above, you may want to consider just building single COB modules. The idea is based on this thread ( that started it all for me)

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/diy-led-with-cobs-small-medium-and-large-grows.64252/

or

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-grow-lights-with-cree-cxa3070-cobs-and-cpu-coolers.805681/

The beauty of single module builds are: they are cheap, easy to build, and offers the most flexibility for your application. You could have one CXA3070 module, one vero29 module, a 3590 module, basically what ever you can imagine. you can angle the lights, add reflectors as needed, and adjust height on a per plant basis.

Then when you are ready, you can scavenge the parts once you have every thing together and slap it all on one heatsink later on. All that is "wasted" is a few $10 CPU coolers.

Also, what strain(s) are you working with
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks again for all the help and info, I really appreciate it. I think building them one or 2 at a time and eventually consolidating would be great for me. I also have a small 2X2 space for mother/clones so having flexibility with lights is a big plus. Currently running( first grow back in years) g13 pineapple express 2, g13 gigabud , and dinafem blue Thai. Those are all about a month old and have been LSTd and FIMd under my current mix of cheaper LED lighting. Also just popped a couple Barney farm pineapple chunk and a delicious seeds sugar candy freebie which will either end up lol I popped or mothered. I have a grow journal thread if you wanna see pics. Well more reading to do........ :)

Edit- sorry for double post.... Sketchy data at my work apartment , didn't think the first posted.....
 
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Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Hey thanks Man! Im excited too! Ok trying to put together a build. Thinking of doing the 8.46 profile heatsink at a 20 inch length( short enough to fit the short way in the tent easily, and being just larger than a 200mm computer fan. Since I can get the CXB in 3000K I was thinking of doing 2 of them with 2 CXA 4000k. I was also thinking of trying to mix in some of the lux es 3w deep red and royal blue as seen in one of your threads. How do I figue out my driver needs? Can I just chain together the high watt COBS with the smaller luxeons? Do I simply choose a driver based on choosing an optimal ma driver for all COBs and make sure the driver has enough Vf for each of them added up at that ma? Is that enough Heatsink/Airflow? Any guidance/correction is welcome :)

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Philips-Luxeon-ES-Deep-Red-3-Watt-LEDs-RARE-Version-8794102435.htm

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Philips-Luxeon-ES-ROYAL-BLUE-3-Watt-LEDs-8794102476.htm

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CXB3070-0000-000N0HAB30G/CXB3070-0000-000N0HAB30G-ND/5124979

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z240F/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z240F-ND/4386667

http://www.heatsinkusa.com/8-460/

148 CFM BitPheonix 200mm Fluid Dynamic Bearing Fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345031&cm_re=200mm_fan-_-35-345-031-_-Product

Is that enough heatsink to go that short or do I need to go wider still?

also saw the 3590s are supposed to make like 200l/w at 250ma. Would those have to be much further away since they are higher wattage, or not since they would not be pushed hard?

Thinking something kinda sorta like so

 
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Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@Reggae1017 I like your design. heres how the specifics work out.
8.46" profile 20" . you need 110cm²/W of heatsink

8.46 heatsink profile.png
so 20" = 50.8 cm. x 396.80 = 20157.44 cm2 / 110cm²/W = 183.~ w. (just showing my math here in case anyone wants to double check it. )

Your proposed design is around 224- 244w depending on how many monos (deep red/blues) you add.

Such is the case in life for some of us, I think you are coming up a couple inches too short. :(

Due to supply challenges with CXBs, I understand and agree with your decision to go with cxa 4000k, but I dont know of ONE driver that will run all 4. And you cant run the monos with the cobs on the same string because 1400mA will blow the shit out of them. One setup would be to drive each COB with a LPC 60-1400, and get a separate 500-700mA driver for the monos. Steves LED sells a chinese gold colored one that will fit the bill, or you can get them on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-IP65-High-Power-Supply-Driver-Adapter-10W-20W-30W-50W-LED-Chip-Light-/400921774021?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item5d58ccc7c5
 
Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Growmau5 said:
@Reggae1017 I like your design. heres how the specifics work out.
8.46" profile 20" . you need 110cm²/W of heatsink

View attachment 3465888
so 20" = 50.8 cm. x 396.80 = 20157.44 cm2 / 110cm²/W = 183.~ w. (just showing my math here in case anyone wants to double check it. )

Your proposed design is around 224- 244w depending on how many monos (deep red/blues) you add.

Such is the case in life for some of us, I think you are coming up a couple inches too short. :(

Due to supply challenges with CXBs, I understand and agree with your decision to go with cxa 4000k, but I dont know of ONE driver that will run all 4. And you cant run the monos with the cobs on the same string because 1400mA will blow the shit out of them. One setup would be to drive each COB with a LPC 60-1400, and get a separate 500-700mA driver for the monos. Steves LED sells a chinese gold colored one that will fit the bill, or you can get them on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-IP65-High-Power-Supply-Driver-Adapter-10W-20W-30W-50W-LED-Chip-Light-/400921774021?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item5d58ccc7c5
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Where do you get the surface area figure from? if I cant go that short I will probably just do a smaller fan and heatsink of a longer length, maybe something around 36 inches for good light spread (over a 4 foot Length), but now I want to make sure my cooling will be there with the correct math.
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Where do you get the surface area figure from?
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@Reggae1017

The "Diode Father" @SupraSPL was kind enough to do a lot of the hardwork and calculations for all of us. You can find the link to that thread below, most of the information you need is on Page 1

https://www.rollitup.org/t/heatsinks-for-diy-led-lamps.851907/

when shopping for a heatsink for COBs , pay particular attention to the thickness of the base plate, look at the images on heatsinkusa and try to select one with a 0.25-0.30 thickness base plate like the 5.886 profile.
 
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Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
ok went ahead and ordered the 3w red/blue from steves with the driver. Im thinking of buying a 40 inch piece of the 8.46. This would give me enough cooling for 4 cxa/b COBs and some 3w and the ability to expand later by up to 2 CXBs and a few more 3w if I chose to down the road, for now its overkill on cooling but I would rather have too much cooling and add the light to match. Planning to use thermal adhesive and kapton tape to fix COBs so they can be moved later without retapping all new holes if I add lights?. Do I just use 18 guage singe wire? So after Heatsink, CXB/As, and the meanwell drivers for the COBs do I need any other major electrical components or just an electrical box to mount on a panel combined with what I have already ordered or mentioned? Do these crees have any kind of quick disconnect that actually work well (I just always question quick fittings, but I am not super practiced with solder, I can make due if needed)?
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
thermal adhesive and kapton tape to fix COBs
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@Reggae1017 you might have just miss typed this. but thermal adhesive AKA EPOXY is a 2 part product that is "permanent" i.e. you can't remove it w/o breaking/damaging the chip set. Use thermal grease/paste.
You will have to solder if you are going the paste/kapton tape route. Just practice on a cheap piece of copper from around the house first. look up "tinning/soldering" on youtube to get the technique.

I think your plan is sound and you will be well on your way to a really nice setup. You have all the big stuff covered. but I see a home depot/ radio shack visit in your future for the little shit. It happens to the best of us. soldering iron, solder, flux, asst connectors, heatshrink, a power cord or 4, all the basic crap that u need to create a finished product.
 
Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Yeah i mean paste lol, good catch. OK sounds good I am gonna go ahead and order the rest. Can I use hooks with those ratcheting ropes to hold this up or do I need to use chain because of the heat?
 
Sylant

Sylant

Member
This build has been a huge inspiration to me and I think im ready to convert to COB, currently using a old marshydro 300w and 5x23w CFL's to light a 20" x 36" area (63" high). I run a single plant SCROG, and heres a link to all my grows so far the newest albums(Jesus OG) is what is growing now
Growmau5 said:
@arsenicrain if I were building a light for a smaller footprint space, I would use:

(3) cxa 3070 per MW HLG185c1400b mounted to one 30-36" 5.886" heatsinkusa profile. For a rectangular grow space, like a 2x3 or 2x4.

For a square grow space like a 2x2 or 3x3 tent, (4) cxb 3070s on a mw HLG185c1400b and mount them to 2 shorter heatsinks. You might even get away with using the cheaper profile like I used. The 4.850" actively cooled. My cobs are only running at 700mA, so that allowed me to go for the cheaper, thinner profile heatsink.
For a small space, just make sure to get a dimmable driver if you can.
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Is it feasible to use 4x CXB3070 AB 3k on one HLG-185H-c1400B, mounted to a 30" heatsink of 5.886" thickness. Will this be enough light standalone for this tent or will I need to scale up larger? Will this setup require active cooling, and how much? any reccomendations for Thermal Interface Material? any additional information you could provide to the previous mentioned build for a ~2x3 area would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Sylant said:
This build has been a huge inspiration to me and I think im ready to convert to COB, currently using a old marshydro 300w and 5x23w CFL's to light a 20" x 36" area (63" high). I run a single plant SCROG, and heres a link to all my grows so far the newest albums(Jesus OG) is what is growing now


Is it feasible to use 4x CXB3070 AB 3k on one HLG-185H-c1400B, mounted to a 30" heatsink of 5.886" thickness. Will this be enough light standalone for this tent or will I need to scale up larger? Will this setup require active cooling, and how much? any reccomendations for Thermal Interface Material? any additional information you could provide to the previous mentioned build for a ~2x3 area would be greatly appreciated.
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(30x2.54x260)/110=180w active cooling according to the figures Growmau5 has shown me. for 4 you need to go a bit longer. a 140mm computer fan fits this profile which should be all you need. Im not sure enough on the rest to answer any for you.
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@Sylant Reggae1017 is right on, 30" is not quite enough, can you go 35-36" That would get you up to 210+ watts of heatsink handling. The concept is sound for a 2x3, it would be 37 watts/sqft

(3) CXA3070 or (4) CXB3070 will fit the MW 185-1400. as far as thermal material, I bought a massive tub of Cooler Master "ICE FUSION" 200g for $20, but those little 7.5g syringes work just as well.

For the 5.886" wide profile, I see absolutely no reason not to use a 140mm fan, they are usually just a couple bucks more than a standard 4"
 

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Reggae1017

Reggae1017

Active Member
Growmau5 said:
@Sylant Reggae1017 is right on, 30" is not quite enough, can you go 35-36" That would get you up to 210+ watts of heatsink handling. The concept is sound for a 2x3, it would be 37 watts/sqft

(3) CXA3070 or (4) CXB3070 will fit the MW 185-1400. as far as thermal material, I bought a massive tub of Cooler Master "ICE FUSION" 200g for $20, but those little 7.5g syringes work just as well.

For the 5.886" wide profile, I see absolutely no reason not to use a 140mm fan, they are usually just a couple bucks more than a standard 4"
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200mm Computer fans are a good size for the 8.46 profile, sink is about 3/4 of an inch bigger, but those fans can move double the air of a 140 ( a decent one, bitfenix, corsair)
 
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