Cobnobuler
Well-Known Member
That outfit is not complete until a pocket protector is in place. The meter can reside there along with a few pens and perhaps a small flashlight.
Fed up with PH meters
- Thread starter Estrange
- Start date
Estrange
Member
We can all at least agree she gets extra style points for matching her hijab with her lab gear.
skunkd0c
Well-Known Member
optimal ph range is 5.5 to 7.0 here, if your range is more particular and plants suffer if they stray outside this range that's unfortunate
i wouldn't want to have to make adjustments myself, i am happy with owning that magic wand thing with lights on it that i put in the res and the lights come on
it says the plants are 1.5 cf i don't want to make it anymore complex than that
in a 20 liter res after the nutes are added it would take 3ml or phosphoric acid to reduce the ph from 6.5 to 6.0
i refuse to believe 3ml of anything is going to make a detectable difference to my crop unless its 3ml of cyanide or perhaps LSD25
peace
Cobnobuler
Well-Known Member
......Bro thats almost signature material there.
LetsGetCritical
Well-Known Member
why?
Estrange
Member
Most of my reason is advice from the grow store, and charts like this
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/indoor-soil-cultivation/114733-ph-nutrient-uptake-charts.html
At anywhere over 6.5 you're looking at Iron and Manganese def's
Greenhouse;save
Well-Known Member
Live by that my freind and you WON'T go wrong.......
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
No need to. I've been growing more likely longer then you have been alive....
In NO WAY do I need to monitor pH......You most likely, just don't get how pH works and how to control it in soil.
Sorry
Doc
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Exactly!
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Now you don't have to in hydro - until you add a silica, then you must adjust....Not owned a PH meter myself since around 1997-98
CANNA Aqua Flores
CANNA Aqua Flores is a complete nutrient for plants, containing all the essential elements for optimal flowering. Aqua Flores is used inrecirculating systems, such as NFT or ebb and flow systems.
Advantages of Aqua Flores
Why A&B nutrients?
- In the plant’s exuberant generative (blooming) phase, it is vitally important that all necessary nutrients are available directly and in the right quantities. Aqua Flores stimulates the growth of fruits and contains all necessary elements that are required during the blooming phase. For example, the plant requires less nitrogen during the blooming phase. However, the need for potassium and phosphorous is greater. Aqua Flores is rich in these elements and special chelated trace elements allow direct absorption resulting in a perfect bloom.
- Aqua Flores stimulates the fructification and provides every plant with its characteristic flavour.
- Aqua Flores is easy to use, dissolves directly and is extremely suitable for growing with re-circulating hydroponic systems. It contains pH-stabilisers, so there is no need to adjust the pH.
- Aqua Flores nutrition also contains silicon, humic and fulvic acids.
CANNA Aqua Flores nutrients consist of two parts, an A part and a B part. We separate these parts for a reason. As it happens, if some of the elements in part A and B are thrown together at the same time, they clog together. The plant cannot absorb this. That's why you should first add the A component and then the B component.
Directions of Use
User Instructions
- Shake bottle well before use
- Fill nutrient reservoir with water
- Add Aqua Flores to the nutrient reservoir with the dilution ratio 1:333 (30 ml A per 10 litre of water and 30 ml B per 10 litre of water)
- Add Aqua Flores A. Stir well, then add Aqua Flores B. Again, stir well and let mixture stand for some hours
- The EC of Aqua Flores dissolved in (tap) water varies between 1.3 - 2.1 mS/cm2 (= the solution EC + the water EC)
- Due to the special composition of this nutrient it is not necessary to adjust the pH levels after setting it initially
many of the nutes around today are pretty much the same as canna, so as long as the water is stable
which accounts for pretty much all tap water in city/town areas etc
rural areas or coastal areas etc may not have such good tapwater for weed growing
the acidic nutes will bring the ph down to around 6 to 6.5 or so
the ph can be left to fluctuate between something like 5.5 to 7.0 without any issues here
peace
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
WRONG!
Soil pH is 6.5 !!!!! (and it should be working it's self out) I don't know where you got the 6.0 idea but, that's to low for soil! 6.5 to 6.7is the ingoing target and it will swing more then that.....Remember what I said about the pH swing in soil...?
Hydro and coco are kept twixt 5.8 and 6.2 (set to 5.8 and it should rise). Monitor at lights on.
skunkd0c
Well-Known Member
The problem with having some theoretical knowledge but lacking practical experience
Iron and Manganese are often both supplied in chelated form, chelated liquid nutes have been around for over 20 years
peace
skunkd0c
Well-Known Member
stable water supply chelated nutes /ph buffers , hydo runs fine when allowed to fluctuate from 5.5 to 7.0
no need for ph meters
hotshotisdashit
Well-Known Member
My first soil grow i had ph problems. Not sure if it was from hard water or not but ph sank to under 5. Now i use dolomite lime and that buffers ph correctly. But now i use subcools super soil and never once have i had to ph going in or runoff. I love his mix. Easiest grow ive had so far in the 3 years ive been growing.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Rule number one; get a good pH meter. I dropped several hundred bones on my Bluelab combo meter.
Rule number two; you made the investment, now take care of it! PH calibration solutions and cleaning kit, also from Bluelab.
Rule number three; be consistent. I do the same thing with it every day. It has a routine that does not vary after I dialed it in. Calibrate it regularly.
Rule number four; write your numbers down every day. This helps you spot trends, which will help you become a better grower and grow better crops of all kinds.
In soil it may not be strictly necessary to monitor pH, but I respectfully disagree with those who say you can safely ignore your hydroponics system's pH and still get consistent top results.
Rule number two; you made the investment, now take care of it! PH calibration solutions and cleaning kit, also from Bluelab.
Rule number three; be consistent. I do the same thing with it every day. It has a routine that does not vary after I dialed it in. Calibrate it regularly.
Rule number four; write your numbers down every day. This helps you spot trends, which will help you become a better grower and grow better crops of all kinds.
In soil it may not be strictly necessary to monitor pH, but I respectfully disagree with those who say you can safely ignore your hydroponics system's pH and still get consistent top results.
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
So your saying that the PH in soil naturally swings up and down depending on moisture content? That is true, but what is the PH of the bagged soil you start with? It should be 7, which is neutral, but that is not always the case I've found. When I grew in soil, I would always add hydrated lime to my soil to stabilize it at neutral, counting on the nutes to bring it down into the sixes. I would never let my soil get dry, and would simply keep it moist and aerated. I think that a stable PH in whatever medium you use is as critical as the nutrients you give your plants. I know that when I started a non-organic grow, begining with a soil PH of 7, at the end of the 90 days, my soil would be in the 4's without me making changes. One of the major reasons for hermies is fucked up PH. I'm glad you've had great success not worrying about the PH of your soil, and I suppose you are a organic grower, but for me using chemicals, I found that maintaining a stable PH of 6.3 made for a better plant.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Got that right - everyday at lights on
Hydrated lime should never be used....way to fast acting for Cannabis.....Hydrated is used in the veggie garden to treat tomato's for blossom end rot.
Oyster shell
dolomite
eggshells
Yes, most quality bagged soils do start at 7. As your plant grows. The plant adjusts the soil to it's sweet spot by interaction with the living Bio's in the soil......The use of synthetic nutrition, inhibits these living bio's.....That's the reason you've seen a big push in the marketing of "Myco's" and root dip's containing specific ones that colonize on the roots.
When I ran synthetic's...I alternated - feed - Bio tea - feed - water - feed - bio tea......Made sure that they got a nice simple AACT bio tea (not a fert tea) at least once a week to keep the bio heard strong. In years of growing like that......I never had a pH problem.
Doc
skunkd0c
Well-Known Member
can you explain this please
Are you suggesting that what i know i can do, i can't actually do .. lol?
LetsGetCritical
Well-Known Member
I drop ph from my tap but It comes out at 7.9 (hempy)